Chuck H- the shoulder season in certain parts of Italy haven’t existed since 2022, at least. When we went to Puglia that year the crowds were, ok, depending on the city of course. In northern Italy, where my wife is from, areas like a lake Como see tourists pretty much year round. Yes, even in January tourists go to Bellagio.
OP- 14 years ago my wife and I, along with our dogs and a bunch of our belongings, relocated from NYC to Italy. The crowds, even back then, were horrendous in the large cities, such as Venice, which has had unsustainable tourism for decades. In the north, such as Como, Lecco, Cortina, didn’t have such a high concentration of tourists as it does now. For example, Bergamo, a small city of about 170,000 inhabitants, saw more than 3 millions tourists visit in 2023. We were there last June. To say it was packed would be an understatement. Yes, there were works going on which caused bottlenecks in the old town. Yes, it was mid June. But, I distinctly remember back in 2012 when we were in Bergamo and it was nothing like this. Not in June. Not in October and certainly not in January