Crowds and Heat

Where exactly in Italy are you going?

I've been to Italy several times and just returned from a late April/early May trip. Things were much more crowded than I've ever experienced them before. In Rome, things like Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, Vatican square, the Spanish Steps - these were absolutely packed to the point that we couldn't even see Trevi Fountain from the back of the crowd. We ended up walking there first thing in the morning a couple days later to get a view of it (we went around 7:30 AM and then had breakfast at our hotel afterward). Florence was absolutely swamped as well.

Of course there are places that are less crowded than others. There was a very short line for the Capitoline museum right in the middle of the day (good way to cool off a bit too). You can spread out a bit when you are walking around the forums and ruins. The earlier you can get started, the better. We often took a little rest back at the hotel in the afternoon when things got hot and crowded and it's easier to do that if you got an early start. That helps with the heat too.

The best thing to do to avoid crowds is to go to some lesser known sites, towns, etc.

Yes, you can try to avoid crowds by going to lesser known places and towns, but you can’t escape the heat. If I worked in schools I would go during the winter break instead of summer.

Where in Italy are you hoping to visit? Florence, Rome, Venice, the Amalfi Coast, Cinque Terra, and the other popular locations will be busy and hot, but the Dolomites and the northern sections should be much cooler, especially at the higher altitudes. Staying on the coast can also help as there are often breezes, though depending on where along the coast you are, you'll undoubtedly find crowds also escaping the heat. Besides the far northern areas along the Swiss and Austrian borders, consider Sicily or Capri for island escapes, or perhaps somewhere along the Adriatic Sea in the less-visited "heel" of the country. While these aren't the more common tourist locales, they can be less crowded and offer more opportunities to see the local life.

Ughh...If you have tours booked, are you still jostling crowds?

I don't know what to say but to ty and offer some encouragement. If your plan is the same Rome-Florence-Sorrento plan with 6 people and 6 checked bags, I am going to recommend some honest talks before leaving and every evening...preferably over a drink or gelato. That means for you too, as you are going to have to embrace the challenges and lead the troops.
My favourite teacher in the 1960s used to travel. We were a humble neighborhood, so it seemed so exotic and she instilled an interest to travel in me. You can be that kind of teacher too. As a teacher, you know how to give pep talks and to make the most of challenging situation. You'll just have to accept the heat and the crowds. If your group will accept it, hit the streets very very early to see the town before the hordes and heat. Book as many skip the line tickets as you can. Every day, find some green space for a break. Everyone needs to write down 5 positive things at the end of the day. Nothing negative. Bribe and reward as necessary. Double check that all lodgings and hired cars have AC. Maybe invest in those snap cooling towels or scarves.
Give yourself a pat on the back for taking it on and when the dust settles take a bit of me time.

This is their itinerary:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/now-roast-my-itinerary

We are in Rome for 4 nights, Florence 3, Sorrento 4. I would love to explore the less crowded and I'm sure beautiful areas, but we have never been, so seeing the major sights was a priority in the planning.

Thank you Maria F! I needed to read that! I've put so much time, effort, and resources into this trip, that I have great expectations that I now have to manage.

I am concerned as you are for our long planned family trip of 11…5 are grade schoolers. So we too are going because of their school schedules…. in July. And we have to do the tourist sites with them…in Rome, Florence…Pisa, Lucca….Pompei. We have most all things scheduled for mornings. Thinking long aftn breaks for sure. We knew not to try to do everything….and to remain very flexible. The adults have mostly seen these places thankfully! But the combination of crowds and heat is the likely reality! I wish other times of the year were possible….but not when taking a longer bigger trip such as this with school children and university staff schedules. Trying to remain exited and not disheartened as OP stated.

Something that may help set expectations is to watch the live cams of many of these places. I use Skyline. Yes, the Trevi fountain is always crowded. Other places, perhaps you can identify times that appear to be consistently less crowded than other times.

MariaF…..what good words you shared! We adults all need to respond as “teachers”! There will be many others just like us…..sharing the streets, heat, our space, patience…on and on! Smile more when others whine….

Hi, if you’re Sorrento hotel is a free cancellation, I would go to Salerno, instead. It will be much less crowded. Then you can take the ferry over to Amalfi & Positano (if their dock is fixed), instead of coming from the west - Sorrento. If you stay in Salerno, you could also take the train (I think it was 30 minutes) as a half day trip down to Paestum and see the amazing Greek temples.

Rome has many gorgeous churches. Pop into ones that are open to both see the beautiful art and architecture and also to have a spot to sit for some cooler shade.

My adult daughter & I were in Italy last Aug/Sept. and we had some hot days. We would take a nice break mid-afternoon back at our hotel to refresh our body temperature and rest our feet. Sometimes we even took a quick shower and changed clothes to not feel clammy from the heat. And a gelato break also helps! Our last day in Rome, we went up to the Borghese Park and rented a covered bike cart and had a great time riding it through the park where there’s lots of trees.

For those popular locations, you probably need dinner reservations.

For Rome and Florence - maybe approach these two more like Venice? Many say that the joy of Venice is getting lost on the side streets and alleys away from crowds - why not spend more time exploring atmospheric neighborhoods, and reduce the time at major sites? In Rome there are supposedly many under utilized museums, and there are churches with works by major artists where you can just walk in.

Ostia Antica could be a good option for most, but in this case redundant as the OP has scheduled Pompeii. The sites along Appia Antica?

I have a trip planned to Rome late October, and I'd like to see the major sites. But I'm not willing to endure too many negative experiences battling crowds if they still exist at that time. I want to come away with happy memories, so if I don't see the Trevi Fountain up close, I'm not going to feel deprived.

If you have kids in your group....how about gladiator school? https://adventureswithsarah.net/detours-roman-gladiator-school/
Sarah is/was a guide for RS and knows Italy very well. She has taken both her sons to Italy on their own. Her blog may have some.ideas for you.

How are you getting around? We have traveled with seven on public transportation. Especially if it is crowded, you need to have carry on only. In summer it isn't that hard because clothes are lighter.

Be mentally prepared to get out early and late. In the afternoon when it is the most hot, go back and take an Italian siesta. Later in the afternoon, things are often not as crowded. You need to get buy in for this from the rest of your group. You really have to be a bit strategic to have a enjoyable trip when it is hot and crowded.

And roll with the punches. We were in Sorrento in July a few years ago. We took a train to hike Mt Vesuvius. The train back was packed and not air conditioned. It was not pleasant. We had the same thing happen to us on a train from Milan to Verona in August. So know it is a possibility but don't let it ruin your day. A shower and some air conditioning followed by gelato fixes most things!

Thank you! I did check that out. Instead we booked a family cooking class in Rome near Piazza Navonna. Pizza and Gelato making. Will be fun and our dinner.
When it’s kids and others first time to travel to these Italian cities and places…one kinda “has” to see the main tourist sites? Unless one doesn’t really have those strong desires and the crowds and heat are just not worth it! Our kids are so excited….to see these! We have warned them of these uncomfortable issues….but still need to not cause worry or anxiety. Just that we’ll do what we can and eat lots of gelato! How fun to be grandparents and blessed taking your grandkids and their parents! Maybe we’ll cross paths with our teacher OP somewhere!

Oh and….Thankful we are staying in very walkable area at Hotel Smeraldo! Not needing much transport. The other sites I mentioned are morning shore excursions from cruise ship!

All great advice, thank you. al2allbe: We are staying at Hotel Smeraldo too! Look for me, I'll be the sweaty bedraggled crazy woman with a straw hat. Easy to spot!

It took me three trips to Paris to see the Louvre. And I’ve been to Rome three times, admittedly for short stays, and have never been to the Vatican. I don’t want to deal with the crowds. We just rarely approach a trip with an emphasis on “must sees.” It’s just so much pressure depending the city and time of year. I get that others approach if differently but if it’s a choice between seeing something and my sanity. I’m going with my sanity. I would encourage you to talk to your group about your priorities and go from there, but something might have to give.

I would make some reservations for dinner. Much easier than being tired, cranky and hot looking for a place that accommodate you.

I just read your March threads.
We just returned from staying in Sorrento. From the Naples train station to our Sorrento hotel took almost two hours, as it was raining, late afternoon.
On our last Saturday, leaving for the Rome airport, it took us an hour just to get out of the Sorrento congestion. The roads are just small and the demand high. It's hard to visualize unless you've been there.The transportation systems just don't work well. Locations are spread out. I know you're leaving early, but as a driver who's been thru LA many times early in the morning, congested places seem to be congested 24 hrs a day.

Kudos for all the work you've done, and for being the leader. Pls report back, with both stories of triumph and the failures! Safe travels!

I would go to Salerno, instead.

Great advice- I agree.
Salerno is very non touristy, less expensive than Sorrento, lots of good restaurants and it has a nice waterfront with sandy beach.

Do a search here for Salerno- several of us have stayed there and enjoyed it very much.
(We do love Sorrento too)

I also can’t bear too much heat.
It’s not the temperature, but any associated high humidity.
Weather apps will tell you the daily humidex.
If it’s really high, it will feel hotter.

Some tips:
Women and girls: wear loose dresses or skirts, not pants or capris.
Get some small spray bottles, about 2-3 inches high.
Dollar Stores sell them.
Fill with water every morning…a spray to the face, neck, arms every little while is a lifesaver when you are out and about.
Hats for everyone.
Collapsible water bottles for everyone.
Refill at public drinking fountains in Rome.
In Florence there is one off P. Signoria that has free sparkling water!
Wet bandannas around necks.
Portable small battery operated fans for everyone.
Some can recharge with USB….get from Amazon.
Rest in apartments/hotels in the afternoon….be sure they have working AC, not just portable fans.
Drink plenty water, stop for gelato frequently.
Move slower when it’s hot, and seek shade.

Lastly:
Have a wonderful trip!

Is it necessary to have dinner reservations for every night to avoid
waiting in crowded hot lines?

I believe you are a family of 6 adults? With a group that size I'd suggest reservations, especially during high season, but I don't want to be the only voice on that topic. What do other posters think?

S42 you asked earlier if you are still jostling crowds even on a tour. The answer is yes. The tours get you to and into the sights, but that doesn't mean that you'll have the sights to yourselves. We went on a wonderful tour of Pompei with our RS tour guide, and some of the places we stopped at were overflowing with tourists. Other sites were a bit further away from the main drag and we were able to spread out and find shade.

Many of the venues were very much overcrowded, but many weren't. I think that the RS tours manage to find the less travelled places, although on our own time we found the crowds. And, no, you don't need to have dinner reservations wherever you go. Again, get out of the main areas and wander down side streets. It's the best way to find a great meal. EDIT: I just saw the note about six in your party. Reservations might be a good idea.

We were there in early September for two weeks last year on the Southern Italy tour and it was very, very hot.

Here's the battery/USB fans we've been taking to Italy --- even if your hotel rooms have AC, a little breeze helps at night: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGI0S6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Book restaurants for lunch that have AC, spend a couple hours at least eating lunch, then return to your hotel to rest and cool off. Dinners can be quick so that you can visit popular sites in the evening when it can be cooler --- just check what is open late and you may be pleasantly surprised. We rarely eat dinner in Italy, just a long late lunch and then some kind of snack from a grocery store or street food. This schedule also means you can be up early and get to a museum or whatever when it opens.

Backpacks are hot.

It looks kind of eccentric but when I'm hot and sweaty I don't care about anything any more --- I take some small colorful wet washcloths in a zip bag and use them to wipe my face: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005AV03BA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got busy early on with planning. On Amazon….Got hand held spritzers, portable fans, cooling towels, packable straw hats with spf 50,…water bottle holders for neck or waist. My neighbor suggested borrowing his ice pack vest. Maybe not!?
S42mahoney. Unfortunately we get to Rome after you. Will look for your report!

So far this year Italy has been cooler than usual, so maybe the heat will not oppress you if it stays this way for another month.

Unless you travel in winter or in lesser known locations, there will be tourists.

You don't need dinner reservations everywhere, but in the most popular restaurants it is recommended.

However if you go out to dinner very late (after 9:30pm or 10pm) you are likely to find tables available even in busy places. Most foreign tourists go to dinner early (between 7:00pm- 8pm at the latest), but they are usually done by 9:30pm when they vacate the table and go. Italians go later (around 9pm), and they tend to stay till they close (11pm for most restaurants), so if you go at 9:30pm, you should be able to find a table vacated by the foreign tourists.

Italians tend to frequent places a bit outside of the historical centers, so that strategy should work because a lot of restaurants in Rome, Florence, Venice city centers are frequented mostly by visitors.

For the ladies in the group, I recommend wearing breezy linen skirts or dresses. And forget those clingy bike shorts for underneath. Get some skin protectant, such as Gold Bond Friction Defense (it looks like a stick of deodorant). You apply it the same way, just swipe where skin may rub together. It works so well! And bring a sun umbrella if you will be out in the sun for awhile. It won't help on crowded city streets, but I took mine to Pompei and I was a good 20 degrees cooler under it. And remember that you can easily make reservations online now. Just a few years ago you still had to phone and speak Italian and try to remember the words for dates and times. Now do it online and show your phone with the info when you get there.

My husband and I just returned from a month in Europe including 8 days on the Amalfi Coast (Naples, Positano and Sorrento). I went to Europe last year at the same time and can confirm it is a lot more crowded this year. We speculated that it was due to some countries allowing their citizens to travel where last year they were still locked down due to the pandemic. Despite the crowds we had a great time because we made some adjustments in our schedules. With a group your size, here are my recommendations post-trip:
1. Definitely make dinner reservations. You can always cancel them but better to have a place to eat than finding all the restaurants full. Most nights restaurants were completely full turning away people without reservations. With six, I think it would be tough to do a drop-in basis.
2.For the Amalfi coast, definitely have a private driver rather than rely on bus or ferry transportation between the cities. The lines for the SITA buses were absolutely zoos with at least a 100 people waiting for buses already packed. On our first night in Positano, the weather damaged the municipal pier so it knocked out ferry service to Capri etc. On the plus side, it meant that Positano was a lot less crowded on the days we were there. We hired AldoLimos to take us from our Sorrento hotel to our Positano hotel but we arranged for it to be an all-day tour with stops in villages (an incredible lunch), Ravello (definitely visit the Garden) and Amalfi. We were so glad to have our driver drop us off in Amalfi for a few hours while he dealt with the parking situation since it was very crowded.

3. For our visit to Capri, we did a small group boat tour (10-12 people) through MBS. https://www.mbsblucharter.com/en/shared-boat-tours. They are also listed as #1 on trip advisor and that is how we booked our tour. We met them in the small marina in Sorrento and had Rafael as our captain and Allesandra as our "guide/first mate." I highly recommend them. We toured all the locations around the island in the boat (grottos, waterfall, ruins, swimming spots). One smart thing that Allessandra did for us is ask if we wanted to pay $20 euros each for a small bus and driver to take us around the isand to Anacapri and Capri. We are so glad we did that because once again the municipal buses had long lines and were packed. We also witness people fighting over taxis. By spending the $20 euros we avoided all of that and could enjoy the island.
4. Booking some downtime in your schedule will make everyone happier. Our hotel in Sorrento (Grand DeVille) had a pool on the top floor and one day we just hung out there for most of the day and then went exploring. In Positano we booked a spot at the Arienzo Beach Club which we really loved. Having some down time made dealing with the crowds not so bad.. Plus sometimes the crowds turn into what we thought were "magical moments" on the trip. I have a leg injury and in getting off a boat, a professional basketball player literally picked me off the boat the placed me on the pier cheering for my alma mater;
5. I thought my visit to Pompeii was made better by reading "Pompeii" by Richard Harris. Since we were doing both Pompeii and Herculeum, our tour guide booked us lunch at the restaurant across from the entrance to Pompeii. This turned out to be a very good restaurant and I realized that I needed that break.
6. Leave for the airport earlier than you planned. It took us almost two hours to go from Positano to Naples around noon. Leave a cushion. The Naples airport was not bad and we checked our luggage and got through security with no issues. There are places to eat breakfast there too. Plus ask your hotel to pack you a "to go" breakfast .
Use scheduling to your advantage and you will have a great trip!

Two sites that may not be as crowded: Museo San Marco in Florence-I have always found it quiet and peaceful. San Clemente Church in Rome-bottom levels include early Roman house.

You may know this already, but waiting in lines at the airports in Italy will probably be hotter than you'd expect --- I always wear summer clothes through the airport even in winter, and am still too hot. All of my layers I had on while on the airplane go into a bag. It's worse now that I wear a mask in airports.

like you i am an educator and can only travel during the summer so i accept the heat and crowds as a given. i am in florence now and around the duomo it is a zoo. it was the same in venice, especially around san marco, even with the rainy/chilly weather earlier in the month. in addition to what has already been said, the one thing i do and you can try is to go out really early, like 7:00 am or earlier! you will find the views unobstructed and the morning light beautiful. find out when each of your 'interior' destinations opens (churches, museums, etc.) and be one of the first to get in. also, to beat the heat, try eating granita not gelato. search for 'granita siciliana'. even though it's a sicilian specialty you will find it all in big cities of the mainland. sicilians will vehemently disagree but some of the 'northern' granitas can be as good as the ones on the island. don't let the thought of the crowds and the heat get you down before you go.

The best way around the heat is visiting very early. I once had the possibility of visiting St. Peter in Rome at 7am and it was magical; but also Florence at a very early hour is way better than the central hours when it is hot and crowded.

About the crowds, I have observed that places recommended by Rick tend to get overrun in time. I remember discussions on a travel newsgroup around 2000, I once suggested Cinque Terre and at the time it was almost unknown. The same with Halstatt in Austria; now they are both overrun. The best way around crowds is visiting Italian cities in January and February; the second best would be addressing less visited places - but this requires planning your trip disregarding common wisdom.

I just returned from Italy last night.
Crowds are horrible--depending where you visit. I spent 1 week in Orvieto--minimal crowds but had rain all week, 1 week in Abruzzo--minimal crowds but some rain----1 week in Puglia/ Basilicata--minimal crowds and clear sunny days--Matera was busy---last week in Florence-------HORRIBLE----------crowds everywhere--I made the mistake of staying at a RS recommended hotel too close to train station so the hoards of folks--mostly college kids-- schleping their noisy roller bags over the way to small sidewalks was frustrating and made me wish I just left and went home early. I did find going out after sunrise--5:30-7 am-ish--was best time to see the sights, take photos with no crowds and I felt very safe. I did take 1 morning Viator tour to wineries--very nice and not too busy. I cancelled another afternoon Viator due to crowds. But the flood gates have opened --mainly for the BIG cities but was still quite nice in smaller areas.