Could use some advice for my first Dolomites trip

I would go with Ortisei, there is plenty to see and do there for 3 days. From Ortisei, it is a bus to Ponte Gardena or Chiusa, then a train to Fortezza, then change to train to Dobbiaco. All transport schedules and trip planners at https://www.suedtirolmobil.info/en/#/

Restaurant Tubladel in Ortisei is excellent. https://tubladel.com/it/

I would not stay in Ortisei. It's a very expensive glitzy tourist town like Chamonix in France. Instead stay in Bolzano - a real town with real charm. Then take 45 minute bus to Ortisei. The hotels are about half the price in Bolzano. In Ortisei the main thing is to get on the very very long tram ride up to the mountain top. And it was surprising cold and windy in Sept. We took the last tram down, about 5 pm if I recall - way before we would have wanted to leave.

Another option is to go up the mountain and there are guest house lodges where you can eat and sleep. They are fairly nice and large. Not that expensive and great view. Thats what we will do next time. We had a good meal at one, but it would be a better experience to spend the night on the mountain.

Then you could look into getting to the other side of the Dolomites a few hours tot he east.

I find Bolzano far less charming than Ortisei and by the end of September, rates are decent as it is technically off-season (the height of season being July and August). Check Hotel Garni Walter for a bed and breakfast-type of stay, a short walk up from the town square. Moderate restaurants include Mauritzkeller, a lively place with an extensive menu. Everything I’ve had there over the years was good.

If you want the half-board experience, Hotel Grones gets high marks by many in this forum and and we also enjoyed Hotel Albion, a but out of town but on the bus line and with a complimentary shuttle to get you to cable ways or the town center.

A bus pass for your use while there is included in most lodging options. You can great some great hiking in the Alpe di Siusi or across the valley in the Odles. Weather is, of course, hard to anticipate. We’ve had snow in early Sept and 70 degrees in late September. Regardless of the weather, you’ll wish you had more time.

We just got back from this area and cannot describe how incredibly beautiful it is. Anywhere you stay if you are biking is easily accessible. Plenty of public buses available. I would not reccomend staying in Ortesei as this is one of the more popular areas and very expensive and busy. We stayed in a wonderful camp site in Alta Badia called Sass Di-Lacia. Great facillites and amazing location, would very much reccomend this place for tent, caravan or hut stays. It has a restaraunt, small supermarket and camp bar and very central.

An area of historical significance is Cinque Torre. Its breathtaking and had very interesting information plaques and museum type areas highlighting its significance during World War 1. Great for kids, our 11 yr old loved this hike...it's a bit more interesting for the kiddies than the other treks. Not suitable for biking though !

I would not worry about booking a restaurant, there are many to choose from and you have the option to order pizza or get supermarket food and sit by the side of the mountain range to enjoy. We found alot of the chalet restaraunts at the top of the mountains great, a little expensive but you are getting the most magnificent location ! We never had to wait too long to be seated.

Enjoy, I wish we were still there !

Bolzano is not in the mountains. It is in the valley and can be hot and steamy even into September, and I don’t believe you can see the mountains from there. Certainly not the views of the peaks you can get from many hotels in the Val Gardena. Or from a hotel on Alpe di Siusi, which is our choice for a cohort stay with lots of hiking and biking opportunities.

It is an hour’s journey or more from Bolzano to the hiking trials. It may offer cheaper hotels, but what you would be giving up in terms of views, and the experience of being in the Dolomites, as well as the experience of staying in a small lovely family-run hotel, are not worth the savings.

I spent several days in Bolzano in September and the weather was fine. I had some great food, paid half the price for hotels compared to Ortisei. We also did some great day trips to Merano and Trento. It's a real place. From Bolzano you can day trip to Ortisei, spend all day hiking the main mountain and valley below. But even in September, you might need a down jacket up on the mountain. I think the ultimate experience is to go up the mountain and stay in one of the "huts" that dot the valley.

Ortisei is a very artificial looking place to me ... very cutesy upscale hotels. I might compare it to Chamonix France, or Portofino, or Isle of Capri. Some people like these highly stylized places created for upscale tourists. I personally like to experience the real people and culture if I can.

For example in Bolzano, we found an old restaurant that was full, and there were no tourists other than us, and it was great, the food was great, the energy was great.

I suppose we are all different, and have different opinions. We are serious hikers and have been to the Dolomites 5 times, for 6-14 days each time, and we are planning to return next June,. We have not ever stayed in Ortisei but we have walked through there and stoped for lunch. What you describe as “cutesy” and “artificial” is the normal Sud Tirol architecture— this used to be Austria. I assure you that real people live and work there: it was not created to please tourists. But it is a ski resort, and a popular place in summer as well, for good reason. It is not nearly as “ glitzy” as Cortina.

There are other villages in Val Gardena that are smaller and less expensive than Ortisei. We like Santa Cristina. But our favorite place to stay is on Alpe di Siusi. No town, no cars, just the beautiful views when you walk out he door, or look out your window.

But our favorite place to stay is on Alpe di Siusi. No town, no cars, just the beautiful views when you walk out he door, or look out your window.

It is glorious and an unexpected experience for those who do it. You can even manage to visit Ortisei by walking a couple of miles from your hotel to Mont Seüc and riding the cable way down to Ortisei. Of course you also have to walk back but it is easy, well-groomed trails and roads. If this appeals, you might look at Hotel Saltria or AlpenHotel Panorama. Both are half-pension.

I really appreciate the various opinions and advice - very helpful thank you!

We have stayed in Castelrotto twice, once last month and 10 years ago in October. Both times we stayed at the Cavallino D'Oro hotel recommended in Rick's book. A beautiful, authentic B&B with lovely owners, it's easy to get to the Alpe di Suisi for great hiking and to Ortesei. The village is smaller and quainter than Ortesei and when you are staying overnight hoteliers give you a free bus pass for the entire area. The Dolomites are magical. Have a fabulous time!

Anyone contemplating a September (or earlier) stay in Bolzano should understand the risk of hot weather down in that valley. It may cool somewhat toward the end of September (I haven't checked multiple years' data), but it can be unpleasant earlier in the month, and some of the local hotels are not air conditioned.

Timeanddate.com reports these high temperatures in Bolzamo for the first 20 days of September 2023:

82 - 86 - 86 - 88 - 82 - 88 - 86 - 88 - 88 - 90 - 90 - 86 - 72 - 82 - 81 - 81 - 84 - 75 - 81 - 81. And the last 4 days of the month hit 81 - 81 - 81 - 82.

You might find lodging to be less expensive in Castelrotto than Ortisei. I was surprised at the prices for Bolzano. Lodging was about the same there as Castelrotto.

Yes, Bolzano seemed very expensive for September this year. I hope the other folks booking for that period know what to expect.

Incidentally, Bressanone is no better, heat-wise.

I had a car the entire time and did no hiking or biking, and took no gondola rides, so for others that might determine their choices, but Chiusa seems one of the more charming towns along the train line.

Most of us are going for the mountain activities, I think. Whether hiking or biking or just magnificent alpine views. Plus, cooler weather in the summer.

Chiusa/Klausen is on my list for a visit during my upcoming trip to the Dolomites. It is often on lists of the most beautiful villages in Italy.

EDITED TO ADD: For Chiusa, In addition to a monastery, there is what appears to be a very attractive waterfall, Cascate di Barbiano, nearby. All trails has it as a 4 mile loop hike. I'm also seeing a parking lot close to the waterfall.Parcheggio Cascate di Barbiano. It looks like you can get a view of the waterfall from the parking lot. I am now trying to figure out if there is a shorter hike/loop.

@Railrider, do you remember the name of the Bolzano restaurant you enjoyed?

I'm sorry I don't remember the restaurant. I really like Bolzano and Merano because they were nice but not touristy. And I had good meals in both place. In the case of Bolzano there is kind of an old town, and I recall they had a "greeter" which is usually always a bad sign, but we took a chance, and it seemed they had a few tables downstairs, but they had a large restaurant area upstairs. It had a lot of old wood like a place 50-100 years old. It was a bit raucous in a joyous way with people drinking beer, and eating. But it was primarily a restaurant, and the food was good local food. Menu was in Italian and German (it's in a German speaking area of Italy) but not a plastic laminated menu with photos.

I have also experienced places like this in Nuremberg (several of them), Bergamo, Regensburg, Heidelberg, Strasbourg, Avignon, St Emilion, Carcassone, Salzburg, Palermo, Taormina, Siracusa, Cefalu, Treviso, etc. These experiences are some of the highlights of my travel. But this is the exception rather than the rule.

Well I like your idea of going straight to Dobbiaco and basing there. We spent a February ski week there a few years ago and had a great experience. Nice restaurants, several good grocery stores, bakeries and other food shops, great x-c skiing. We had cars, but saw buses coming and going, as well as a train station. There was lots to see and do between skiing and day trips. We went to Ortisei and it was too busy for us during ski season, but pretty. One thing we enjoyed was buying a 5-day pass to use all the gondolas in the region. We’re not downhill skiers but it was fun to ride up to the top of the assorted mountains and have a look. I presume they’re open in September. Most had restaurants at the top. Brunico was another great outing.

We stayed in a historic villa, walking distance from the town centre. Being in one place for a week was a real pleasure. So that’s my opinion, worth what you paid for it.