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Climbing St. Peter's dome

We love to climb towers and domes in Europe, but I do have a bit of claustrophobia in tight spaces if there are lots of people there as well. Also, we like to climb faster than most others, and get frustrated if we cannot pass the slower people.

How crowded is the staircase going up? Are there any windows or open spaces at intervals? And is there a separate route for descending, or do we have to squeeze past the people coming up?

I have done fine with the Firenze duomo and St. Paul's in London! but neither was crowded when we went. Is there a "best" time for climbing the dome?

Posted by
7049 posts

When I was in my 30s and in much better shape, I thought this was a good idea (there was no virtually no line, so I decided to go for it - it looked like fun and a challenge compared to the hordes of people waiting in line for the lift). I learned that I had really bad claustrophobia and I was almost in silent panic mode thinking how I would get out of this midway with people right in front of me and right in back of me in a pretty tight space (and hot, hot, hot). I had never been more relieved when I escaped to the top and was able to finally catch air - I honestly thought I would pass out just from the panic (although I had to stay calm and just internalize it). If you suspect you may develop the same feeling, I would weigh that in your decision. I had no idea it would turn out like that for me - I was quite in shape and athletic but I remember this cupola climb to this day (and it's been over 10 years). I did the climb in September so I can only imagine how much hotter it would be in the summer. I have climbed other domes since but the experience was much better - it was much cooler and there were virtually no people, so there was no panic about passing out and how to escape.

Posted by
553 posts

I have climbed the Duomo in Florence and the Tower of the Yorkminster in York England, but not St. Peter's...although I have friends who have. I was 63 in 2007 when I did the Duomo and this September I plan to climb St. Peter's (and the Duomo) during my first solo trip to Europe. In researching the subject I found a travel forum posting and responses from several years ago on the subject and thought I'd share it with you. The link is: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/climbing-st-peter-s-dome-and-the-tower-of-pisa

Good luck with your trip....and climb. If you get to York I highly recommend the tower.

Posted by
16321 posts

Thank you both ---that is very helpful. It is not our fitness I worry about, it is the crowds. In January we did a hike in New Zealand with 2200 stair steps, no problem, but that was in open air with few others around.

We were fortunate to climb the Duomo early enough that there was no one in front of us, so up we went. St. Paul's did have people, but it wasn't bad. I would like to do that one again.

But it sounds like St. Peter's may just be too crowded. This will be mid-October, so heat should not be a big problem, but yes I can see myself getting into panic mode if it is super crowded.

Jim, thank you for the advice about the York tower. We visit London on a regular basis, but haven't made it to York yet. It is on "the list" for our May 2016 visit, so I will make a note regarding the tower.

It was fun reading the thread that you linked, about climbing St. Peter's. I totally identified with Beatrix, who commented that her family dreads when she sees a tower! because they know she has to climb it. So do I --- as long as it is not too claustrophobic!

For a fun one---if you are ever in Copenhagen, try the Spiral Church.

Posted by
11613 posts

You cannot pass the slower people for most of the climb, and it's rather rude to try as the staircase is not very wide. The cupola climb is very narrow and curved, if you are tall you will be hunched over. It's a double spiral, so separate stairs to descend.

Posted by
693 posts

To avoid crowds or slow progress up the dome get there early. Arrive at the dome ticket office (on the far right inside the basilica) just before 8am (when it opens).

Posted by
136 posts

We climbed it last month on a Monday in the early afternoon. Despite the masses in the basilica and in the square, the staircase wasn't crowded (that is, nobody within sight in front or back on our ascent). There are a couple of spots that are essentially mini-landings where you could see out. But yes, the staircase gets tight, especially near the top. Also, the observation area on the top was quite crowded (it's a small area, as you might expect).

As someone mentioned, there's a separate staircase for the descent. I'm actually slower on the descent than the ascent, so on one of those mini-landings, I let a couple of people pass me by. I wouldn't have stopped on the stairs to let them pass, though. But like I said, I didn't find it to be bumper-to-bumper with people, so to speak.

Given that we went at around lunchtime, that could be a time to potentially beat the crowds. I'm so glad I climbed it- the views, especially of the rest of Vatican City that you normally don't get to see, were pretty fantastic.

Posted by
1994 posts

I also decided not to climb the dome – a little too claustrophobic. However, the view from the roof of the basilica is beautiful, so you might want to do that.

I also enjoyed the walkway around the inside of the dome – it gives a wonderful view of the interior art. Access is at roof level.

Posted by
3941 posts

We did the dome way back in 2008. It was mid September and I think we did it mid afternoon or so. We didn't really have any crowds, and there were places (nip it only a few if memory serves) along the way where you could kind of tuck into a cubby (window well I think) to let people pass or to catch your breath. Maybe not so great if claustrophobic tho. I hate climbing stairs and had to stop a few times to catch my breath, but I don't think we had anyone piling up behind. It was also a very rainy day, so that could have made the crowds less.

Posted by
2114 posts

My husband is one of those in the camp of: If it was built and it can be climbed, well, we are doing it!!! So, I normally am part of the climb, too.

As others describe, there are little (not large at all) alcoves where one can sort of scoot into and allow a little room for someone to pass, and the alcoves usually have tiny little windows. But, yes, near the top the ceiling is definitely curved. I'm just under 6 feet tall, so I was doing a lot of leaning, as was my spouse. When you get to the very top of the stairs, the stairs are pretty narrow at the point, and you would be REALLY leaning. Then, I'd have to pull photos to refresh my memory, but the very last part, I remember holding on to a huge rope going up maybe 2 dozen small wood stairs....but once you make it to that point, you would probably climb ANYTHING to just finish!!!! As another poster said, it is extremely crowded outside the dome, but the view is oh so worth it. And, it is fun to see the spikes that used to be used for candles (think about the pour souls who had to climb out on them to light them pre-electricity days).

Would I do it again, if I had not already climbed it? Yes!! And, on one of the platform type things almost all the way up, one can walk out to where some of the statues or carved figures (whatever they are called) that one looks up and sees from the square (that look so small from on the ground) and see just how BIG they are.

We were there in early April, the year of the beatification of John Paul. I don't know if it was extra crowded because of the activities related to that, but we climbed late in the week, after all the festivities were finished (so many had already left Rome).

Various people are bothered by small spaces in various ways. Perhaps there is a video someone may have posted on YouTube of doing the climb. I'll sometimes check YouTube, as it seems there is a video of anything one can imagine in life :)

Posted by
12 posts

We climbed the entire 500+ steps a few weeks ago, on June 27th, and this was a Saturday. We started it around 11:00 am. It was a tough climb for me, but I'm not sure if this was because it was towards the end of our trip and fatigue had set in. It was crowded, but I don't think as crowded as it can be at the busiest times. Also, the last 25-50 steps were where it bottlenecked and progress stopped completely for a few minutes. In this area, it was very warm and the smell of sweaty, smelly people was a little overpowering. Very Crowded at the top and difficult to jockey for pictures, but totally worth it. The souvenir shop on the level where the statues overlooking the square are is a lot less crowded than those on the ground. I'd suggest getting your rosary, buying your postcards, and stamps here, take a break, buy a Coke, get some pics, is a good idea. The climb down went much faster for us. Happy Travels!

Posted by
11613 posts

Ah, yes, the rope! Hopefully no one is tugging at it while you are holding on.

Posted by
44 posts

I climbed it a few days ago, day 15 of our 17 day RS Best of Italy tour. It was a hot day, 95º and extremely humid. I took the elevator for the first 200 steps since I'm rather afraid of heights and 60 years old. That was a good choice. When I came to the rope, I was quite surprised, but I just grabbed it securely, only looked at my husband's feet in from of me, never looked down, and just kept going. It was a tight climb in spots with a steady stream of tourists, but no one rushed anyone. The little landings by the windows were a welcome relief and the curve of the walls around the dome very interesting. As you come out at the top, the view makes it all well worth the effort. I had a much greater understanding of the grand scale of the St. Peter's and the city stretching out all around was spectacular. I made sure I mailed my mother-in-law a post card from the Vatican post office at the top. Even with the crowds and the heat, it was worth it! BTW the tour was spectacular. When I get over jet lag, I will write a review!

Posted by
2297 posts

You can do the first portion by elevator. Most people do not go any further. So I think that helps to keep the crowds manageable. And that first portion also has a wider staircase if you choose to take that one (I thought it felt like a highway considering how narrow most church steeple climbs are). We were there mid June and I didn't find it crowded at all - the Vatican museum, however, was extremely crowded that day.

Posted by
16321 posts

Unfortunately, elevators are actually worse. I never use them unless it is unavoidable ( no stairs).

But is the lower stairs are wide, maybe we will give those a try and then decide on the upper portion, depending on how many others are doing it.