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Civita (Rick's fave hill town in Central Italy) ... easier way to visit?

We drove to Civita di Bagnoregio today from Montepulciano and found visiting an exhausting experience.

We parked as close to the bridge as practical (in one of the moderately large parking lots at the top of the hill about a quarter mile from the cafe in the shady area above the bridge). It was then a long walk, first by steep stairs down and then a steep hill down, to even get to the bridge. Then a long walk across, part of it uphill ... then back across the bridge and an UPHILL hike back to our car.

Might be fine on a cool day but it was hot and sunny (low humidity thankfully). Rick mentions a shuttle bus but does that drop you off any closer to the bridge??

Are bicycles allowed on the bridge? We did not see any, but if yes, that would be a more pleasant way to visit. Granted, half of it is still uphill, and on a hot day not ideal, but might still be preferable for some readers. Anyone know what time the bridge opens and closes? Might be best to visit early or late in the day during warm months. (We went in May... cannot imagine doing it in summer.)

Posted by
267 posts

We had the same exact experience in late Sept 2016, and it was not pleasant. The town felt like a Disney set, because there were only tourists there, no actual residents. We even got overcharged in the Rs recommended restaurant - L'Antico Froioa - for a dish the waitress insisted we'd love, and we ordered, but alas never materialized. There are so many towns with vibrant centers and lovely people...this was a waste for us (well except for the fun drive to get there and back to wonderful Orvieto).

Posted by
267 posts

And I think the bridge is too steep for bikes, we did see a few motor bikes though.

Posted by
28 posts

our favorite hill towns are Orvietto and especially San Gimignano.

I wish I had stopped on the way up to the latter to take a photo of the town and its towers. there are places to pull over to do so. oh well....

Posted by
11613 posts

I think RS is very nostalgic about Civitas di Bagnoreggio (after all, he named a bag after it).

I've never been, I gave Todi and Orvieto more time instead.

Posted by
378 posts

We just returned from visiting Civita. We loved it. The fact that this little town springs up in the middle of Italy's Grand Canyon is something to contemplate. We parked in the closest parking lot to the cafe in the shade. From the time it took to park to buying our entry tickets to walking to the town was a total of 30 minutes. We stopped along the way to take pictures. We are four 60 plus adults with one person that's visually impaired using a guide dog. The bridge is wide and there are some steps along the steepest part to help with footing. There was a gentle breeze which kept the temperature comfortable. If you are of average fitness without mobility issues you can do it. The church is worthwhile to see. It has not been used for 300 years. Lunch at La Cantina di Ariana was delicious. The pork grilled sausages, bruschetta and ceci salad were wonderful. To me, it was well worth the visit.

Posted by
1679 posts

It's a fabulous little place, regardless of the ugly bridge, and called a hill town for a reason. Do you now have to pay to cross the bridge?

Posted by
8166 posts

That is a good idea to charge as maybe a way to preserve the city.
The tourists especially American that can go all that way to visit can afford it.

Posted by
28 posts

I did not want to make it sound like crossing the Sahara desert uphill, but when it's 82 degrees, and direct sun with no clouds, at 2pm, the walk back especially is not a fun experience. (It would be worse if the humidity were high.)

It would have been more enjoyable at 10am when it was 70 degrees.

The other hill towns are much easier to access, because there is at least some shade along the way up and down. And I don't think any require such a long hike, at least not the ones we have visited.

this little town springs up in the middle of Italy's Grand Canyon Well said, jvb! excellent analogy.