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Cinqueterre - still worthwhile in July?

I first visited the Cinqueterre 40 years ago. It was magical. I’m considering returning in July this year. I’ve read so much about how it’s changed. To those who have been there multiple times over the years, is it still worthwhile???

Posted by
8113 posts

It will be busy and hot. I think you have to decide if that works for you. Vernazza was nuts when I was there on a weekday at the end of October about five years ago.

If it were me, I'd look at staying in a quieter city which might be Riamaggiore or Manarola. We stayed in a lovely room in Manarola with ocean views. https://ariadimare.info/en/home/ There aren't a lot of restaurants in Manarola, and I'd say, at least when we were there, only one good one. Billy's, and it was amazing.http://www.trattoriabilly.com

Posted by
1379 posts

Hi. We've been five times over a 20 year period, last time 2 years ago. It is dramatically different. During the day it is overwhelmed with tourists. Also new fees / restrictions such as 10 Euros for a 5 minute train ride to the next town; limits and reservations needed for some of the hikes. Evenings after the day trippers have left can be nice. As we left, we said we won't be back soon, at least in mid-season. Still beautiful scenery of course; just up to you how much the crowds detract.

Posted by
17764 posts

My friends, if you keep going to the Cinque Terre every few years, over and over again, you are part of the problem.

So find some other new place to explore and let the people who have never visited before go and enjoy the place, and hopefully they will not be overwhelmed by hordes of tourists anymore.

I need to go to Italy every year, but I stopped going to Cinque Terre, over 15 years ago. I don't want to be part of the problem anymore. Actually last year I was in Florence and never even went downtown, not even once.

Posted by
32657 posts

Since it's been quite a few years since you were there it's probably "worthwhile" to see it again, however July is one of the worst times to visit that area. It will most likely be swamped with both tourists and cruise ship groups. I don't think you would find that "magical". If you want to see it again, going in the shoulder seasons would be preferable, perhaps early April or late October.

Posted by
216 posts

We’ve visited Cinque Terre four times during the past 20 years, and it’s my favorite place on the planet. The first time, we traveled by car to Vernazza, and that drive was a bit unnerving; the second time we traveled by car to Manarola and that drive was fine. Subsequent two times we went to Vernazza by train, which was ideal. We were there most recently in June 2018 and it was still magical. Of course, accommodations in 2018 were substantially more expensive than they were 20 years ago. But it wasn’t too crowded, we enjoyed the trails, the food, the ambiance. Certainly, check online in advance for the status of the trails, etc, as others have mentioned.

Posted by
8113 posts

The trails can close on a dime. When we were there, one was closed longer term for maintenance, a couple others were closed that day because they thought the weather that day might be an issue. It ended up clear and sunny for the day. It seemed overly cautious to me, but they have had catastrophic weather in the past, so I tried to understand. . . When they close the trails, they won't sell the passes, so trains need to be paid for individually as well as the toilets at the train station. So, for our three night stay, the only trail we could use was the one around Manarola, which was lovely, but we'd hoped for more.

Posted by
8772 posts

We first visited in 2001, and I use the same term to describe that experience, Magical. We returned in the fall of 2021, and it was mobbed, and this was the fall, not the height of summer travel season! The main street in Vernazza was literally packed shoulder-to-shoulder. The shuttle bus for Cornelia was overwhelmed, and left potential passengers still waiting at the stop, because it couldn’t hold that many. We stayed in Riomaggiore both times, and while it wasn’t quite as mobbed there as Vernazza that last time, it was still noticeably more overrun with visitors day and night. Many restaurants now absolutely required a reservation to get in.

We’re heading back to Italy (Puglia) this fall, but probably won’t ever return to the Cinque Terre.

Posted by
942 posts

Maybe consider nearby alternatives such as Tellaro, Portovenere et al? Less expensive and a fraction of the crowds. A regular ferry from nearby Lerici goes to the 5Terre.

Loved the story that RS told recently, an illustrative one if ever. Seems that Rick sent one of his staff to do a 5Terre update in lieu of himself. That poor staffer became so overwhelmed by the tsunami of aggressive approaches inflicted by a number of hard local hoteliers and restaurant owners, that they fled the area before finishing the task!

I am done. the *sinky-teer
* a young clerk at our bank once perplexed us by commenting how 'some day he'd love to visit the sinky-teer.' Took us a few minutes to realize where he meant.

Posted by
1523 posts

..and it took Me a few minutes before I realized what that was, as well!

I'd avoid that like the plague in July....Tellaro is so pretty!!