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Cinque Terre with my 87 year-old mom

I'm taking my mom to Italy, renting a house outside of Lucca for the month of March (just two more weeks until we leave!). This is a return visit for us; we rented a place near San Casciano (south of Florence) in October 2018, so we are pretty confident travelers, have a car, can navigate the roads and rail system, etc. One thing my mom really wants to do this time is to see Cinque Terre, but while she is pretty spry for her age, I know that the hilly terrain will be somewhat challenging for her. I'm thinking that we drive to La Speiza and take the train to one of the towns, stay make that our home for a night or two and perhaps do the ferries (if they are running that day) to one or more of the other towns. Since we are based in Lucca the full month, we have the luxury of flexibility when it comes to dates for our visit.

So with that background, which of the five towns should I consider as the "home base" for our visit? Ideally, it would be one that is the least taxing to walk from the train station down into the town (and back up again) and would give us the best options for restaurants, shops, etc. in the off season. I was thinking perhaps Vernazza would be best, but since I've never been to the Cinque Terre, I'm not sure.

I've always gotten great advice from the folks on this forum, and I'm hoping you can help me make this happen on what could be my mom's last big European trip.

Thanks,

Susan

Posted by
411 posts

You can eliminate Corneglia. Very steep climb.
We stayed in Monterosso and visited Vernazza. Neither is really steep, but there is some up/downhill walking.
Don't know anything about Riomaggiore.
The train stops at all 5 towns. We found it to be convenient.

Posted by
367 posts

Riomaggiore is basically one big hill made out of steps and cobbles.

I suggest Monterosso, where the main shops/restaurant area is pretty flat. Lots of choices for accommodation and eating there too, and a pleasant beach boardwalk to meander along.

Posted by
13931 posts

The Monterosso al Mare train station is very near the sea front. It is pretty flat along there. As long as you are careful about where your hotel is located she should be OK. I've stayed at both Hotel Pasquale (in the old town area) and Hotel Punta Mesca (new town area) on Rick's tours to the CT. Both are fairly flat to get to. The sister hotel to Pasquale is Villa Steno and it is very much uphill to get there so I'd not go with that one.

There is a flight of stairs up to the tracks in Monterosso. To me Vernazza feels very hilly.

Look at googlemaps satellite view and you can see how close the tracks are in Monterosso. There is just a small section of track showing as the rest is in tunnels.

Posted by
495 posts

We stayed at a hotel in Levanto that had parking for our car and it was a short walk to the train station that visits all 5 villages...

Jean

Posted by
1696 posts

The ferry is not a option - this year it doesn't start until April 1. Monterosso is by far the best for mobility challenged visitors. Levanto per the previous post is a good choice though it adds 30 min. to the driving time from Lucca on a curvy road. At La Spezia you can park under the Centrale train station. Search for a hotel in Monterosso on Booking.com and then look for 'Filters' on the left to zero in on 'Facilities for Disabled Guests'. You should try to book soon.

Posted by
32201 posts

Susan,

IMO, Monterosso would be the best choice as it's relatively flat for the most part. It's an easy walk from the "new town" to the "old town" and a few stairs from street level to the train platforms, but you can take those at your own speed. I'd suggest at least a two night stay in the Cinque Terre, which will only provide about a day and half for touring. Three nights would be better (depending on the weather).

There is a car park on the beach in the new town and another in the old town (I can't remember what the rates are?). As I recall, the two parts of Monterosso are accessed by different roads. You won't be able to drive between the two parts of town due to a ZTL zone (hefty fines!).

The previously mentioned Hotel Pasquale would be a good choice, although if you stay there you might want to park in the old town. That might not be the best idea in your situation as the road from the hotel to the car park is uphill so it might be a challenge for your mother. You could also consider Albergo La Spiaggia in the new town, which is relatively close to the car park on the beach. I've never stayed there but have heard good reports about it.

Another good hotel possibility is Hotel Villa Adriana which is at the far end of the new town along the road into Monterosso. They offer free parking so that's something to consider. The hotel is a bit older but it's clean and comfortable, has an Elevator and as I recall they serve a nice breakfast. It's a bit of a longer walk to get into the main part of town, but it's relatively flat so it's not difficult.

There are lots of nice restaurants in the new town and many more in the old town within easy walking distance. Cantina di Miky is a big favourite with many here (if the weather is nice, sit at their outdoor patio overlooking the beach). The more upscale (expensive) Miky restaurant (owned by the same family) is at the far end of the new town, closer to Hotel Villa Adriana. Be sure to try something with Pesto, in the area where it was invented.

One caveat about hotels in Monterosso (or anywhere in the C.T.) is that some may not be open in March. As your dates are flexible, you might want to schedule your visit towards the end of the month. You can always check with the hotel.

As mentioned previously, the Ferries probably won't be operating that early in the year. When they are operating, the ferry dock is in the old town area, and there's a ticket booth right there. It's very easy to get between the five towns using the frequent local trains. As you're probably aware, if you're buying tickets locally for Regionale trains, these must be validated before boarding the train on the day of travel, although the rides between the towns are only 5-10 minutes each so your tickets may not be checked. Monterosso has a "full service" rail station and the agents speak English (to some extent).

There will be a few steps to deal with when visiting the towns.....

  • Riomaggiore: steps to use the sottopassagio (transfer tunnel), depending on which track you arrive / leave on.
  • Manarola: relatively flat although the main street becomes steeper the further up you go.
  • Corniglia: the town is high on a bluff and takes 300+ steps to get there from the station - there's a shuttle from the rail station to the town (small extra charge unless you have a Cinque Terre Treno card).
  • Vernazza: steps from the station down to the main street.

I'm assuming that as you'll have a car, you'll be using the compulsory *International Driver's Permit".

Buon Viaggio!

Posted by
191 posts

A more fun way to see all the towns might be the ferry. They are beautiful from the water. You can spend time in any town except Corniglia, which is perched high on a rock, and not a ferry stop

Posted by
15803 posts

Just adding my vote for staying in Monterosso as much of the town is reasonably level and it's the largest of the 5 so will probably have more open during the off season. We've stayed at La Spiaggia and can recommend it; rooms are small and simply furnished but the location, an easy walk from the train station, is great and the staff is very friendly. It also has a rare-for-the-CT elevator! I won't swear that they're open in March but I'd give them a shot. This is a popular hotel that books up quickly!

https://la-spiaggia-it.book.direct/en-us

Corniglia isn't an issue if you take the shuttle bus that's usually timed to meet the trains. Tickets are only a couple of Euro or so. By taking the bus both ways, you can avoid that long staircase.

The ferries, unfortunately, will not start running until April 1st this year:
https://www.apathtolunch.com/2014/06/complete-cinque-terre-portovenere-la.html

March weather could be a crapshoot. You could have balmy temps and blue skies or cold rain and wind.

As you'll be using the trains to get around, you might consider the Cinque Terre Treno MS cards? While you won't be using them for the hiking trails they cover, they might still be worthwhile buys if using the trains a lot, and it covers the Corniglia shuttle bus as well. You could buy them at the Welcome Center at the La Spezia train station; be SURE and validate them before boarding your first train!!!!

http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/page.php?id=158
http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Ecentri-visita-dettaglio.php?id=524

Note that for a 2-night stay, you'd need a 3-day card if wanting to use a pass to get back to La Spezia after your 2nd night in the CT. Otherwise, just buy individual tickets for that particular journey. At € 4,00 per individual ride on MOST trains between La Spezia and Levanto + the villages in between, it's less expensive than the additional €12,00 difference between a € 29.00 2-day and € 41.00 3-day pass.

Posted by
97 posts

Am saving this useful post in case my husband has issues. Thanks!

Posted by
44 posts

Thank you to EVERYONE who has taken the time to reply. This is excellent information and I sincerely appreciate the insights and suggestions. I absolutely LOVE this forum!

Susan

PS - I do have an IDP, and I insisted that mom get one two, so I can take a photo of her behind the wheel in Italia to impress her friends. We'll probably limit her driving photo op to a parking lot, LOL.

Posted by
15803 posts

We'll probably limit her driving photo op to a parking lot, LOL.

Susan, that's a stitch! 😂

Posted by
32201 posts

Susan,

It's nice to hear that you'll both have IDP's for your trip to Italy. As you're probably aware, you'll need to have your home D.L.'s along as well, as the IDP is not a license per se.

One other point.... you'll need to be vigilant to avoid the ZTL (limited traffic) zones that exist in many towns and also the speed cameras (hefty fines for both violations).