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Cinque Terre Vernazza - Need Recs for Full Day Hike and Restaurant

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My family of three will be staying at La Mala for two nights in Vernazza. July 16-18
On July 16, we'll be arriving on a small boat trip with some family members that will bounce along the coast and show us the three southern towns of CT. We plan to get off the boat around midday in Vernazza - check in to La Mala, then possibly noodle up to Monterosso either with the group or by train for the afternoon.

So... I'd ask you wonderful fellow travelers for...
1) a recommendation for dinner for three in Vernazza. I was about to pull the trigger on an outdoor table at Belforte, but the recent reviews on TripAdvisor are not good. If anyone has a recent experience to override what I'm reading - please feel free, otherwise I'd like some good local fare, would be happy with either casual or expensive.
2) a full day hike itinerary for July 17. I'm thinking about taking the train in the morning to Manarola, then hiking back to Vernazza through Corniglia. We would love to cover some ground at a leisurely pace - maybe stop and swim if possible, eat lunch somewhere and just really enjoy the views. Should we reverse our direction, by walking away from Vernazza and returning by train?

Bonus - request? Monterrosso restaurant recommendation: I've seen good reviews on this board for L'Osteria, Mikey and others. How are they right now in 2019?

Thanks, y'all!

Posted by
32392 posts

red,

A few thoughts.....

  1. If you're planning to go to Monterosso anyway, why not have dinner there? Cantina di Miky is a popular favourite with many here. It's close to the train station so very convenient. You could also have a look at Ristorante Belvedere, which is in the "old town" (only a short walk through the tunnel).
  2. You won't be "hiking back to Vernazza through Corniglia" via the Sentiero Azzrro trails as the Manarola - Corniglia segment has been closed for several years. There are other trails that go higher in the hills, and you can find details on the Park website - http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Esentieri-outdoor.php . The Manarola - Riomaggiore segment (Via dell' Amore) is also closed.
Posted by
11 posts

Thanks, Ken - when saying we'd hike from Manarola to Corniglia - I should have specified the Volastra route. Rick speaks highly of this route.
I'm tempted to just eat in Monterrosso - though since we'll be in Vernazza two nights - I hate to pass up a good option if it's right around the corner.

Posted by
11828 posts

We have enjoyed dinner several times at Il Pirata. The brothers are a hoot and the food is excellent. A reservation is mandatory as they do not seat many.

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