Cinque Terre - Vernazza

Breakfast at Il Pirata, although his "we don't serve bacon and eggs' schtick gets a bit old, but the pastries are very good and the fresh squeezed blood orange juice is yummy.

The other towns are a short train trip away. The hikes are marvelous, esp Vernazza to Monterosso, or the other way around. I can't say enough about the #6 trail hike from Manarola - Volastra - Corniglia. Bring a picnic lunch and eat it in Volastra at the church.

Porto Venere is often overlooked but it is wonderful as well with a marvelous church and town. Take the ferry there and back.

Get a room with a Verandah and sit and drink wine and enjoy the view. No verandah? Then buy a bottle and sit on the break waters in the harbor.

The towns are bursting with tourists during the day, but tend to clear out in the evening. I spend time in the hills during the day to avoid the crowds then return to tranquility during the evening.

PS: the #2 trail tends to be a long conga line of hikers from one town to the other, go higher.

Best meal I had in a Resturant in Italy was at the Belforte in Vernazza. Make a reservation when you get into town and ask for one of the 3 tables on the private balcony. If those aren't open as for one on the railing outside.

Billy's in Manarola for dinner is simply fabulous. Stay off trail #2 and take the shuttle out of Manarolz up to #1. Il Pirata is good for any meal. Book ahead for all of you dinners. We also liked Rick Steve's' walking tours of each of the towns.

Porto Venere is often overlooked but it is wonderful as well with a marvelous church and town. Take the ferry there and back.

The Ferries should still be running at that time of year (but may close for the season about Nov. 1), but service is dependent on weather. If the water is rough, service will probably be suspended.

When I visited Vernazza I loved sitting along the water front with a glass of wine people watching. It's fun to hike up il castello for the views. I ate at a cliff-side restaurant called Ristorante Belforte (it's listed in our Rick Steve's Italy guidebook) with an even higher up view than the castle; it was such a unique atmosphere that I really enjoyed. Most of what I love about the Cinque Terre is hiking, swimming and eating.

Thank you all for the recommendations. It looks like several of you are recommending the same restaurants which is always a good sign! And everyone seems to like hiking and drinking of the wine!! Do you think it will be warm enough in October to go swimming? We arrive on October 22nd>

karen,

One other point on restaurants, is that it's very easy to travel to any of the five towns for dinner using the local trains. For example, the trip from Vernazza to Monterosso is only about 5-8 minutes. If you decide to try restaurants in Monterosso, I'd highly recommend Cantina di Miky (new town, not far from the rail station). I can provide info on other restaurants in Monterosso if you're interested.

Another vote for Cantina di Miky; very good, and a fun place - although they are closed on Wednesdays, and close for the season towards the end of October so you might find it shuttered on your dates.