Cinque Terre -- too touristy in July?

You could go elsewhere in the Riviera in July - there are plenty of other nice towns, for example Santa Margherita Ligure and Camogli. I would expect them all to be pretty busy in July but probably many fewer Americans in a town like Camogli which seems to be popular among Italians.

There are questions all the time on this one forum about traveling to Cinque Terre in July. You may or may not have picked the wrong time to go. Find somewhere to stay before you get there.

You don’t have to stay at the Cinque Terre if you are afraid they might be too crowded.
The Cinque Terre have become very popular with North Americans only in the last 25 years or so. Rick Steves has something to do with that, but so does the cruises’ business circus.

However if you stay in the towns to the west of the Cinque Terre, the crowds will not be too overwhelming (unless you go in August, when all Italian vacationers are at the beach).
Try Bonassola, or Moneglia. They aren’t far from the Cinque Terre by train, yet not overrun by visitors.

I was there in very early Sept (sorry not July) in 2006 for my one and only visit (have been back to Italy 7 times since--and yes I would turn down free train fare and a free hotel, no interest in going back to CT). Crowded is an understatement. I would have loved the Cinque Terre in say 1960, 1970, 1980, ok too young for that era but you get the idea. It is in no way, shape, or form what it used to be (Doc Brown I need your time machine). July, high US based tourist season- nope!

But your not going to believe me (nor should you) until you experience it for yourself. Maybe if you underestimate your anticipations you will be surprised and have a fantastic trip and stay! Research the individual villages--go to cruise forums (Cruise Critic) and find out which seem to be popular with that set and then find the village the cruise crowd doesn't go to. Your going to Italy- have a fantastic time!!!

I've been to the Cinque Terre three times, as recently as last May, and I hope to go back again (but most likely not in July!). Last time, I spent three nights in Camogli (loved it!) and only day tripped by train to the Cinque Terre. It was busy but not THAT crowded - maybe there was no cruise ship in town. The whole Riviera is a magical place, and one can certainly visit the Cinque Terre without spending an entire four days just there.

Thank you everyone for your replies. Andrew, can I ask what do you mean when you say you'll return "(but most likely not in July!)"? Why not -- too peak of season?

I probably wouldn't want to go to Italy itself in the summer myself - sounds too crowded. I'm guessing the CT towns are overflowing and the trails crowded, mostly with American tourists who don't know there is more to the Riviera than the Cinque Terre. I might stay elsewhere in the Riviera but day trip to the CT and spend as much or least amount of time there as feels comfortable based on how busy it is.

We went in the middle of July last summer and it was wonderful. Hot, but wonderful. Not too crowded like other posters have warned. What helped us pick a less crowded time was: 1) look at when the cruise ships are in port because when they are it is way more crowded. 2) If you want to hike the blue trail, leave early (like 8:00am). You will both have cooler temps (though not 'cool' temps) and the trail is not crowded at all. Really, it's not. 3) if there are restaurants you have your heart set on eating at, make a reservation.

If you follow these steps you should find it to be a wonderful experience. It was NOT wall to wall tourists in the towns or on the trails.

Have a great trip!

My feeling is that the fact that you've asked this question indicates a level of concern about crowds that argues against a mid-summer visit. However, I haven't been to the C.T. since around 1990. I just know that my reaction to Taormina and St. Paul-de-Vence was to escspe within a couple of hours, and I don't think I'm more bothered by crowds than average.

However, it has been pointed out on this forum quite often that the bulk of the problem in the C.T. occurs during day-trip hours, with the towns being much more pleasant early in the morning and late in the day. If you plan to hike the high trails, you'll be away from the worst of the crowds. Or you could sleep in the C.T. and day-trip to places like Camogli.

No one has detailed what “too touristy” might mean, so I’ll recount our experience. More than 10 years ago, in early June, we made a second visit to the CT. We had had thought them to be rather dull; but the relatives with whom we were traveling insisted they wanted to see what all the fuss was about. I warned them they wouldn’t like the towns, and they didn’t. Walking on the Via d’Amore was akin to a stroll on a busy Manhattan street. The restaurants were jammed with customers, and we had to wait 20 minutes for a table. The meal was O.K., but was served by a surly waiter. We took the train between two of the towns and were jammed in, body to body, with other riders. We tried the ferry later, whjich was only marginally better. I can guess that since then things have only gotten much worse, especially in July and August.

To me, there is a difference between when "touristy" refers to waiting in line for a world class museum (in a city, you can always escape to a quiet neighborhood) and when it means tiny villages overrun with people. The beauty of the CT is the vistas and the hiking trails, which are difficult to enjoy with teeming masses. If I was going to Italy in July, I would go to a mountain area.

I think the Cruiseiders’ presence (or absence) on the specific days you go, will make most of the difference.

I used to go to the CT in July/August every year when I lived in Italy, but that was late 1970’s and early 1980’s, so it doesn’t count anymore. Since I moved to the US I’ve been there a few times only in May and June, and it was much more crowded than in July/August in the 1970’s.

If you stay overnight at the CT villages, you will probably be fine in the evenings and early morning, when the day trippers and Cruiseders aren’t there. But from late morning to afternoon when they invade those towns (especially if there are cruise ships docked at La Spezia), you are better off getting the hell out of there by hitting the trails (the higher trails are not crowded, since they are physically demanding) or going to a Day trip somewhere else (San Fruttuoso, Portofino, Moneglia).

Unless you are into hiking or water sports (like kayaking or scuba diving), 4 days may be too long. I think 3 nights could be sufficient.

We wrestled with the same decision for our trip this September. I was very close to taking CT off the itinerary, but DH insisted and said that despite the hordes, we wanted to see it and we'll just deal with what comes. We edited CT out of our past Italy itinerary (over logistics), so we weren't going to do it again.

We will plan our days considering the cruise ship schedules, and we booked a guesthouse with a bar with a view. If it is too crazy, we plan to park ourselves at that bar and drink wine watching the sea.

I think if your heart wants you to go, you won't be satisfied unless you do.