Is hiking between the towns permitted or recommended after sunset?
Interesting question. I'd like to know as well. We are leaving for Italy soon, and I image that we will take several long hikes while in CT and what if we stop off to have diner in one of the towns... and then it gets dark? Maybe take the train, or water bus??
Interesting question. When you begin in Riomaggiore, you first have to pay to get on the trail. I wonder if there's a gate. In any case, I think that you can get onto the trails. For the trails between Riogmaggiore and Manarola and from Manarola to the Corniglia train station, the trails are wide and mostly flat. These are easy walks. I could see hiking these at night. For the trail between Corniglia and Vernazza, it's a hike with elevations up to 1,200 feet. The trail is very narrow in several places. I couldn't imagine what it could be like at night. The fourth trail is known to be more treacherous. I would recommend avoiding trails 3 and 4 at night.
The Riomaggiore to Manarola (Via del Amore) walk is probably lighted at night. I wouldn't recommend any of the others after dark, particularly the northern most segments (Monterosso to Vernazza to Corniglia). Too dangerous (cliffs/narrow) and if it's raining, seriously dangerous (slippery). The point of the trail though is the VIEW, so I'd recommend going during daylight hours regardless.
See the following for candid photos of what you'd be in for http://goeurope.about.com/od/cinqueterrehiking/ss/cinque_hiking.htm
We hiked (walked) from Riomaggiore to Manarola in a driving rainstorm last Thursday night. Most of the trail is NOT lighted. Luckily, I had a headlamp so the walk was a memorable one that we will never forget.
The check stations were not manned at 9pm so I don't think there is any prohibition on hiking at night. I hike after hour hikes in the mountains near Seattle area several times a month from April through October. I am quite experienced hiking at night. I would not recommend hikng the CT trails other than between Riomaggiore to Manarola at night unless you are experienced at hiking at night, have the ten essentials packed, and are sober.
BTW a landslide closed the trail between Manarola and Corniglia on Sept 26 and had not opened when we left on Sept 30. Also there were two drownings in 3 days last week in Manarola- a 72 yr old German man and a 26 year old Canadian, both posing for pics too close to the rough sea. The residents were quite upset about this. Be careful!
A med-evac helicopter and medics removed someone from the trail between Monterosso and Vernazza on Tuesday, 11 September, and that was during daylight hours. While it might be possible from the Riomaggiore end, I certainly wouldn't recommend it.
Dear gail
We just returned from the 5T. I would not recommend hiking at night on the "blue trail", since it is pitch black and unsteady terrain. There is the Via del Amore which is lit, paved, and flat between Riomaggiore and Manorola, but otherwise enter other areas at your own risk. P.S. Keen's (a tremendous walking shoe ) were awesome in the 5T. Have Fun , I wish I was there.
I would think that a full or nearly full moon would give you enough light to see most of the trails as long as you're fairly sure-footed. But I would not recommend this for most people other than the Via del Amore as a previous poster mentioned.