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Cinque Terre Hike Question

2 years ago in September I visited the CT and we hiked from Vernazza to Monterosso. This year again in September there will be 8 of us returning to the CT. We are all 30-35. We were thinking of hiking from Vernazza to Corngilia. Has anyone hiked both directions from Vernazza? If so which trail did you like better? To Moterosso or Corngilia?

My initial plan is since i did the Monterosso hike, but the others haven't was to hike from Vernazza to Corngilia. Then for those that wanted to keep going hike the trails that are open from Corniglia towards Manarola and down to Riomaggiore. The others who don't can take the train to any of the towns.

Posted by
16792 posts

Hi Robert-
Keep an eye on trail conditions (open/closed) as a lot of the lower trail (#2 Sentiero Azzurro) has been closed for some time. The section between Manarola and Corniglia doesn't promise to open again anytime soon but it's possible they'll have the legs between Vernazza and Corniglia, and Manarola and Riomaggiore open again this season. Hope so!

These can be gotten around by taking higher trails: they'll just take more time. Here's the map showing what's currently open/closed (click on it to make it larger):

http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/sentieri_parco.asp?id_lingue=2

Wish I could help you with your question but I've only done the Monterosso - Corniglia direction.

Posted by
37 posts

Me and my wife are the same age, and we hiked all over the CT last spring. We stayed in Vernazza as well and took the train to Monterosso to hike as much as we could from there. Of course, closures got in our way, and the coastal path was closed from Corniglia to Riomaggiore. However, we hiked from Corniglia to Manarola on 587/586/506 (http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/sentieri/sentieri5terre.pdf) and I would say I enjoyed that trail quite a lot. It goes through Volastra and you should definitely consider that option.

The section of the coastal path from Vernazza to Corniglia was also very good, and I liked it only slightly less than the Monterosso->Vernazza section. Also, the via dell'amore from Manarola to Riomaggiore was closed, but who wants to hike on a promenade anyway? we did 531, linked up with some of the vintner trails for the first half up the mountain from Manarola. This hike is fun - it's straight up and then straight down into Riomaggiore. It might wear you out a bit if you've been hiking all day, but it's fun to do a short trail at that grade. The vintner trails closer to the cliffs were very fun, as they really skirted right along side the precipice, and in one instance required jumping over a scarp that took out some of the trail.

Posted by
32406 posts

Robert,

You'll need to check the official Parks website (web link in the previous replies) just prior to your visit to determine which Sentiero Azzurro trails are open at the time of your visit. You could also ask the staff at your hotel when you check-in. One or more segments may be closed due to storm damage, which can occur at any time. The Corniglia-Manarola and Manarola-Riomaggiore segments have been closed for about the past two years, but are expected to re-open sometime this year. I haven't seen a date yet.

As a previous reply mentioned, there's an extensive network of other trails so if you're keen on hiking there will be lots of opportunities to do so.

Posted by
423 posts

For those who've done the hike between Monterosso and Vernazza, would you recommend starting the trail in Vernazza or from the Monterosso side? We'll be staying in Monterosso this July, and I'm weighing the benefit/s of taking the train to Vernazza and hiking back (or vice versa). Interested if the views are particularly better from one direction over the other (photo bug, just don't want to 'miss' anything if it's not right in front of us); as well as considerations to grade, if one direction is more 'uphill' vs the other. Thanks for your help!

Posted by
37 posts

Matt: I recall that the steepest section of that hike is the hill just coming out of Monterosso. I am happy we left from there because I always prefer to go up the steepest bit. Sure you can find a topo map somewhere though.

As for the direction, I have to recommend walking from Monterosso. Coming down that last stretch into Vernazza is the best reward for the most challenging section of the coastal path (but that's not saying much - none are that bad!). I'd suggest leaving early in the morning before the sun has come over the mountains and having breakfast at Il Pirata in Vernazza.

Posted by
423 posts

Thanks jpkand!! Also for the tip re: Il Pirata (right above the Vernazza train station). Know someone who's been there and they swear they make the absolute best cannoli's anywhere. Sounds great after an early morning hike... heck, sounds good right now. : )

Posted by
1054 posts

Thanks for the PDF links with the maps.

The middle level trail that is showing as green from Corniglia to Manarola. the 587/506 etc trek. Does anyone know if that passes any vineyards?

Posted by
16792 posts

I'd vote for the Monterosso - Vernazza direction too. That first look down at Vernazza from the top of the trail is a real beaut.

Posted by
32406 posts

Matt,

While there are varying opinions on that, I would also recommend starting the hike in Monterosso. There's a fairly steep climb at the beginning and I find it's easier to do that going uphill than downhill. Since that's the most challenging section, best to do when you're fresh and well rested (IMO). The walk downhill in Vernazza seems more gradual. Once you get up to the level of the trail, it's fairly easy although there are some very narrow sections so some care is required.

Be sure to take lots of water. As I recall, there's a shop on the way to the trail that sells bottled water. If you have any left towards the end of the hike, you can leave it for the stray cats that reside just above Vernazza. One other point to note is that you'll have to buy a Park Pass to hike the trail. You can buy those in local stations or even at the small wooden booths at the start of each trail.

Posted by
37 posts

Robert: 587 starts in the vineyards just outside of Corniglia, but mostly it's forest and simply a way trail up the mountain, so it's quite steep in parts. Once you get on 586 and start contouring the mountain, it's all easy. You get great views back to Corniglia looking over Vineyards (my favorite views of Corniglia were from this hike). Shortly thereafter, you come out of the woods and start walking on trails that cut right through some vineyards with grand, unobstructed views of the Ligurian sea. Later in the hike--maybe around Volastra--there are some olive tree groves, which are great to walk underneath. Of course, once you get in to Manarola you should definitely hike the short vineyard trail there (you can find this in the RS guide), which will take you around to the cemetery. For my money, the best view in the whole CT is from this cemetery ... https://www.flickr.com/photos/jpkand/14839148119/

ps- If you're looking for a restaurant when you get there I'd recommend Aristide... eat upstairs if it's open and enjoy the best panna cotta you might ever have

edit: I should mention that when we were there last year they said they were in the process of switching the trail numbers to those that we've been using in this thread. However, all the signage we saw on the hikes corresponded to the old numbers, so just in case you might want to have those in mind as well. Something like this, so we've been talking about trails 7a and 6d: http://cameronpiper.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/CinqueTerreMap.jpg