Cinque Terre hike N-S or S-N

It depends on what kind of shape you are in, in my opinion. If you think a tough trail would wear you out too much to continue, I would suggest starting in the south and working your way north. If you're too tired to continue after hitting Corniglia or Vernazza, you will still have seen a lot; the trail from Monterosso to Vernazza seemed quite difficult between the exertion required as well as the condition of the trail (I walked a very little but of it with my mom before she had to stop). If you only see that portion of the trail due to exhaustion, you'd probably be missing out on a lot.

However, if you are pretty fit and think you will be able to do the whole thing no matter what, going from north to south does make sense- you'll get the tough part out of your way and have very smooth sailing towards the end (and be able to really enjoy that little cafe on the Via dell Amore :)). That's how I would have done it had I planned to do the whole thing either alone or with a companion more physically capable than poor mom!

Another consideration is the weather. If it's a hot day definitely start early in Monterosso. Doing the trail from Monterosse to Vernazza in mid-day heat is no fun.

Also, we found that a lot of tourists embarked from the morning boat at Riomaggiore. That part of the trail looked very busy in the morning. By the time we got there in the afternoon it was absolutely empty - and it was a VERY busy day overall.

Yeah, the Monterosso-Vernazza stretch is definitely the toughest, but I am also a fan of going south to north. To me the steepest part is on the Monterosso side of the Monterosso-Vernazza trail, and even though it has steps, I definitely enjoy the ease of going down at that part as opposed to going up. Again, I've done it both ways a handful of times, and I personally enjoy south to north much more.

My brother (early 60's) recommended the south-north route so it sounds like he is right on. We're arriving Manarola in the afternoon so we'll probably do the Amore walk that evening. Good to know about the hordes arriving on the boats in the morning so that we can plan accordingly. Thanks everyone!

Kay, i also think it is easier south to north, the via del amore is an easy 10 minutes walk from Manarola, you can go for dinner in Riomaggiore, very nice! I thought that from Manarola to Corniglia was pretty easy, the tougher part for me was from Corniglia to Montoresso, but so rewarding! If you get a chance to go for a dip down at Manarola waterfront go for it, the water was nice and warm in September.

The direction really doesn't make much differece. The total distance is only six or seven miles.

A couple of years before the area became a national park and the trails where in pretty much disrepair, I walked north to south on what's now known as the blue trail, loitering in each of the towns. I then walked back mostly on the high trail. It was early fall, so daylight wasn't an issue, but it seems it took only ten or twelve hours. I was in my mid-fifties at the time.

A year and a half ago, I walked south to north. It took a little less than five hours including a long grub and beer break. The crowds in the towns and the slow walkers on some of the narrow trails were the only thing that slowed the pace.

Kay,

My suggestion would be the north-south route, from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. The stretch from Monterosso to Vernazza is the most challenging and involves somewhat of a climb from the Monterosso and then downhill to Vernazza. The part from Vernazza to Corniglia is almost as difficult (but not quite). I find that it's better to tackle the most difficult part when "fresh" and well rested.

As you're staying in Manarola, I'd hike from Monterosso to Manarola, and then take a break at your Hotel or one of the local Bars until dinner time. Then walk the famed Via dell'Amore to Riomaggiore for a nice dinner. There are some good restaurants at the bottom of the village (close to where the tunnel from the train station is located). After dinner, take another leisurely stroll back to Manarola.

There are metal gates at the Riomaggiore end of the Via dell'Amore, but I'm not sure what time they're closed? One other point to mention is that a Park Permit is required to hike the trails, and there WILL be people checking for these. As I recall, you can pick up a Pass at any of the local train stations.

Cheers!

i have hiked it both ways. i am 50 in reasonable shape i guess. it can go either way i think. i love vernazza to monterosso. but i also love vernazza to riomaggiore. i think if you are healthy enough to consider this trip, go however you want. it really isn't that much different. it is awesome both ways, either way, one way, part way. you get it. have fun be safe.

in my opinion the best direction is Manarola-Monterosso ( s-n ).
this for 2 reasons:
-walking Manarola to Corniglia isn't too hard except the last upslope stair that takes you to the town of Corniglia; you'll probably spend a little while visiting the town and at this point, taking a little break, you're already at 40% of the total upslope on your way to Vernazza.
-the walk between Vernazza and Monterosso and Corniglia to Vernazza is a little easier on s-n direction instead of the opposit.
Find info and video on this page about hiking the Cinque Terre.

Having hiked the trial in both directions, I much prefer the north to south route for the following reasons: You get the most difficult part of the hike done first when you're fresh, the views arriving in Vernazza from Monterosso are amazing, you arrive at the top of Corniglia and go down rather than up the long steep stairs, and the last part of the hike (Corniglia train station to Riomaggiore) is easy and enjoyable.