Cinque Terre for hikers

The 5 villages are minutes apart--pick one base.

We were in CT in April and stayed in Manarola. Our first visit in 2012 we stayed in Vernanzza. Given we had hiked the main trails in 2012 and due to the crowds we chose to hike the Sanctuary Trails in the Rick Steves book. They proved to be beautiful and challenging. We planned to make a long hike from Manarola to Ponte Verde but the jet lag got the better of us and we did train/bus one way and ferry back (the sea grotto at Ponte Verde remains once of my all time favorites). For a first visit Vernanzza might be a better spot as it is more centrally located to the main trails although we loved Manarola as it was a little less busy.
Everything you read about the crowding of the trains is true. We waited in line for a ticket machine once for over an hour. Early a.m. and late p.m. was not a problem though.

If you truly love hiking and being outdoors there are a multitude of options without the hordes of tourists you’ll find in CT. Do consider your options.

Hi Denise -
As Renee said, the villages are mere minutes apart by train so pick one. Renee has also given you some good advice for taking alternate trails so you miss the mob on open sections of the SVA2/Sentiero Azzurro/Blue Path route. You would also need to purchase a park pass to access the couple of currently open of sections for that route, assuming they'll still be open during your stay next month (heavy weather/damage can close any trail at any time).

See the park website for trail closures and suggested hiking itineraries:

http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Eindex.php

http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Esentieri-outdoor.php

If your trip is next month, you'll want to put the giddiyup on accommodations as this is a VERY popular destination that books up months before high season, and Sept is still high season.

Thank you. We just booked a room in Vernazza and with your help are ready to go!

Everything you read about the crowding of the trains is true. We waited in line for a ticket machine once for over an hour. Early a.m. and late p.m. was not a problem though.

It was true in 2012, but it is not true anymore. Since then, they have added the Cinque Terre Express, much more regular train service between villages. I've been to the Cinque Terre several times before and after 2012 - just a few months ago, in May, and the trains are nothing like they were in terms of crowds (but certainly not empty). In 2011, they were mobbed.

Denise, if you are avid hikers, you'll want to do the trail between Manarola and Corniglia - a steep climb up to the village (of a whole bunch of steps!) to the little village of Volastra. The views down are breathtaking, the best of any of the trails I have hiked in the CT. You will find plenty of hikers on this more-challenging-than-average trail, but it won't be as crowded as the ones between Corniglia and Vernazza and between Vernazza and Monterosso, which are the only "lower trails" still open and the most popular and crowded.

You can also hike from Levanto (one train stop north of Monterosso) back to Monterosso - an even less crowded hike, with some great views down on all five villages from the rise just north of Monterosso.

Andrew, I think the one with Volastra is part of this hike?

http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Eiti_dettaglio.php?id_iti=3602

When we were there in May, the only lower trail that was open was between Vernazza & Monterosse al Mare. It was very crowded. A lot of it was single track and there were several large groups coming through that didn't get that they had to split up and step aside for others (one group said they had 50 people and all tried to come through as one unit). Looking at the map, it looks like it's been ages since the other lower routes have been open or will be open. There are many higher hikes though. They're very steep, but not nearly as crowded. It's beautiful-- enjoy!

Yes, Kathy, that hike adds on a trail connecting Riomaggiore and Manarola. The portion from Manarola via Volastra to Corniglia that I hiked is the majority of it.

When we were there in May, the only lower trail that was open was
between Vernazza & Monterosse al Mare. It was very crowded.

The "lower trail" Nickelini referenced is the very busy SVA2/Sentiero Azzurro/Blue Path I'd mentioned previously. Currently the Monterosso>Vernazza and Vernazza> Corniglia segments of that one are open; the next two segments (Corniglia> Manarola>RIomaggiore) are closed and will remain so this season.

Andrew, I've read comments from others that the hike you did is a nice one. :O)

Anyone looking for a much more challenging/advanced hike could consider taking the train north to Camogli (lovely town!), walking the steps up to the town of San Rocco, and then hiking from there to the abbey San Fruttuoso on the ocean. The trail via batterie is difficult - there are several spots along the trail that have no footing at all; you have to hold on to chains in the rock to move across the side of the hill. (I was not prepared for this when I hiked - it was a bit scary!!!). From San Fruttuoso you can take a ferry back to Camogli or on to Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure (train from there back south).

I wouldn't say this is the most amazingly scenic hike I've done in the Italian Riviera. On the upside, I saw almost no one on the trail for the entire hike - a few people here and there but no one for over an hour at one point. (Dumb idea if your are hiking alone like I was!) You won't find too many uncrowded spots like that hiking in the Cinque Terre.