Cinque Terre concerns

It's best to ignore inflammatory articles like that, but there is no doubt that mass tourism takes its toll on some places. In the seasons that it is less crowded, it would likely not be great weather for hiking. So, my suggestion is to look for one of the many seaside locales in Italy where you could hike in peace--I assure you there are several.

Another thing to be aware of is that two of the four segments of the most popular hiking trail between the towns have been closed for years due to weather damage. They are supposed to reopen in 2021 (we'll see). There are higher trails that might or might not be suitable for your family. There are a great many (hundreds and hundreds) of stairs to climb to reach even the partially-closed lower-level trails.

Critical typo corrected--I meant to say the trails are due to reopen in 2021 (thanks, Lola--I might have still missed it on re-reading).

Actually, the sections of the coastal path ( Sentiero Abruzzi) between Manarola and Corniglia, and the Via d’ Amore between Manarola and Riomaggiore, are not scheduled to return-open until April 2021, according ging to this:

https://www.cinqueterre.eu.com/en/cinque-terre-current-situation

And the section between Vernazza and Corniglia has no projected opening date.

The higher paths in the mountains are open, however.

Five tiny villages getting 2.5 million visitors a year; crowds worse when mega cruise ships carrying 5,000-6,000 are in port:

http://crew-center.com/la-spezia-italy-cruise-ship-schedule-2020

There are good hiking trails in the Portofino area, ferries from Santa Margherita or Rapallo:

https://www.portofinotrek.com/trek/gb/6-trail-map

My family and I enjoyed five days in CT a few years ago in July, which is certainly considered peak season. We weren't inundated with cruise ship arrivals during our visit (perhaps because it was a Mon-Fri itinerary?... not over a weekend), but did notice an increase of day trippers between 10a and 4p. But honestly, at that time of year you want to get out early (or late) for hiking, and not swelter in the midday heat. So our routine would be to hike or ferry between the villages early, bring lunch back to the (A/C) room around 11a, relax, then venture back out late-afternoon when the locals take back their town/s. Some wonderful restaurants and enotecas, and if you were planning on spending a week there you could allocate a different town for each day, which is what we did while using Monterosso (Hotel Pasquale) as a home base. I'd advocate going if it's a region of interest to you. Just maybe avoid Vernazza (including Rail travel thru that station) between 10-4, as that town draws the most crowds.

My wife and I stayed in Manarola three nights in early Sep 2019 -- a crowded time. Other than the train being very crowded a couple of time, and a veritable mosh pit at the Riomaggiore waterfront the one time we visited that town, it was fine.

We hiked the Corniglia to Vernazza trail in the morning, starting at 8am, and saw few peop[e. When we were approaching Vernazza later in the morning more people began appearing, hiking uphill from Vernazza.

We also attended the Vernazza opera one night. I am no opera fan, but it was wonderful -- and the small building was half-empty.

The weekdays were less crowded than the Saturday we were there. For example, the shuttle bus from the train station to Corniglia didn't require a wait the three times we visited that town -- except on the Saturday from about noon onward.

And the section between Vernazza and Corniglia has no projected
opening date.

Lola, that section is usually open during high/shoulder season. Aside from heavy rain, unexpected rockfall damage, etc. I'd expect it to be open this spring/summer. It's the two legs of the "Blue Trail" between Corniglia>Manarola and Manarola> Riomaggiore which will be closed FOR SURE this season. That said, ANY trail or section of one can be closed to weather or temporary damage

THIS is the official website that anyone planning to hike the Cinque Terre trails (and there are many of them) should use:
http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Eindex.php

THIS is the page for the trail info and current conditions at any point in time:
http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Esentieri-outdoor.php

Toto, I'd be cautious to use the term "boat people" as it has a derogatory undertone depending on the people that term might be applied to. Is the CT very busy during high and shoulder season? Yes, it is. I've no idea what you mean by " lumping us in with people who carve their names on the local cacti" but if you intend to STAY in the region versus day-trip it from a ship, from Florence or another location outside of it, you will have a better experience. I will assume that you've no intention of carving up the succulents or otherwise making a nuisance of yourselves. :O)

I might question staying for a week? That's longer than I'd choose to base there if it means shorting some other locations in Italy.

Toto,

I don't agree with the tone of that article or the title, and don't think anyone needs to be "gravely concerned" about visiting the Cinque Terre. While cruise ship groups and other day trippers can be a problem during the day (~10:00-16:00), the towns are more tranquil in the evenings (although the restaurants are always busy in the early evening).

When are you planning to take this trip? Aside from hiking, do you have any other activities planned in that area? I have to agree with the previous reply that a week in that area may be too long, unless you're planning on using it for a home base and doing a lot of day trips.

If you're really concerned about crowds, you could stay in one of the nearby towns like Levanto, which is only about five minutes by train from Monterosso. However I've found that many places in Italy (and elsewhere) have become very crowded, even in shoulder seasons.

As mentioned earlier, only two of the four segments of the popular Sentiero Azzurro trails will be open this year (although that can change on short notice due to current conditions). There's an extensive network of trails in that area so if you like hiking, there will be lots of opportunities.

Just to add, this is a good website for anyone planning a trip to the CT region:

https://www.apathtolunch.com

Toto, think about what you're after and if CT is the best place to deliver it.

CT is kind of like McDonalds, everybody has heard of it and just plan to go there because they are unaware there better choices. Dig a little deeper and you might find a better alternative.

Look at Camogli or Santa Margherita Ligure. Both are on the edge of the Portofino National Park and offer family-friendly hiking as well as ferry and train options. One good site is https://www.portofinotrek.com/trek/gb/ and there's a hike from Camogli described here: https://www.apathtolunch.com/2011/05/portofino-hike-camogli-to-san-fruttuoso.html

Thanks all for the advice and insights. The links are a huge help and apparently several of them I wouldn't have known about going off of Google. Appreciate the alternative suggestions too. This is huge!

Another alternate town is Bonassola, just north of Levanto.

"Another alternate town is Bonassola, just north of Levanto."

Bonassola is a somewhat smaller town with a smaller beach, which can become very crowded at times. Despite the cruise ship hordes, Monterosso or Levanto would be a better choice (IMO).

If the current Coronavirus pandemic continues there is good chance that many more cruise ships will be quarantined away from docking ports and unable to reach Vernazza.

If the current Coronavirus pandemic continues there is good chance that many more cruise ships will be quarantined away from docking ports and unable to reach Vernazza.

The threat of Coronavirus is but one of the problems. There are numerous reasons we don't cruise on those gigantic ships, but near the top is the real threat of contracting Norovirus. I can think of few things more unpleasant than being stuck on a ship with 4,000 other tourists who have the trots.