Cinque Terre: Best time to Hike? Most scenic: North or South?

You'll be there end of August so it could be quite hot. In that case, start as early in the morning as possible with the most strenous part. Doing Monterosso-Vernazza in the heat of the afternoon is gruelling no matter which direction you're doing it. Also, the short stretch from Riomaggiore can be quite crowded in the morning with tourists just arriving. It's quieter in the afternoon.

With the ferry, I would just do one direction from La Spezia to Monterosso. That's about 2 hours. The return would double the cost and you'd see exactly the same scenery. But that's me: 4 hours on a boat is a bit much for me.

Thanks.. So you think it is most scenic to hike North on the trail-- or does that route just provide the most difficult portion first (early am) making it easier? My preference to hike the most scenic route.

I thought I remembered the other side of the trail being the most difficult, but that was a long time ago!

I didnt realize the ferry took that long, good to know that!

Matt,

My suggestions would be (in the same order as your questions):

1.) I'd hike from Monterosso to Vernazza (and south) to begin with. This is the most challenging portion so I'd want that out of the way before the mid day heat sets in. The view looking down on Vernazza from the trails is one of the most scenic (one that's used on Rick's website). The next portion from Vernazza to Corniglia is also a bit challenging, so again it's a good idea to get that out of the way.

2.) I'd start as early as possible, perhaps 07:00 or 08:00 from Monterosso. In August it's going to be HOT in the afternoons, so you'll probably want to be sitting by the water having a "cool one" at that time!

3.) Again, getting an early start will provide the best light and shadows for photos. I'm also a Photographer and if you wait for mid day when the sun is directly overhead, the photos won't be as good (IMHO). I liked the view looking down to Vernazza, the view of Manarola from the trail and also the view of the harbour in Riomaggiore. Of course, the "best" view is subject to artistic interpretation.

4.) Can't help with the Ferry. Ask at your Hotel when you arrive or check Rick's Italy book. As I remember, the boats only run during "calm" conditions, so make note of the weather at the time.

You're probably aware of this, but you WILL need a Park Pass to hike the trails. There WILL BE people in small wooden booths checking to make sure that ALL hikers have a pass. You can obtain these at the train stations when you arrive.

Happy travels!

I've hiked both directions and prefer north to south (Monterosso to Riomaggiore). In addition to the great views as you approach Vernazza, the trail south brings you into Corniglia at the top of town and you get to walk DOWN the long staircase instead of up. I think the views along the section of trail near Guvano beach are really nice. There are also some nice views as you leave Vernazza.

I agree with the others that hiking north to south is the best strategy. This way the hardest trails are at the beginning when you have the most energy. We hiked the trails in the heat of summer. We woke up early to be on the trail at 7a and were glad we were done before the hottest part of the day approached. We rewarded ourselves by spending the afternoon at the beach in Monterosso.

I'm also a photographer & would recommend the opposite of everyone else here. When I was there in May, I hiked from Riomaggiore to Vernazza in day one. Day two I took the train to Vernazza, explored more, then hiked to Monterosso then the ferry back to Riomaggiore. I remember the light being very nice going that direction.

Though the hike can be done in 4.5 hours or less, if you're like me, it will take much longer. I'm a runner & in shape, but with all the beautiful scenery, I think I stopped every 10 feet to take another photo.

Regarding the ferry, I don't think the Monterosso to Riomaggiore takes 2 hours. La Spezia is further south.

I'd recommend taking it easy & analying the light on day one, & evaluate what you want to photograph and when the light hits it best & planning your direction based on that.

I'm also a photographer & would recommend the opposite of everyone else here. When I was there in May, I hiked from Riomaggiore to Vernazza in day one. Day two I took the train to Vernazza, explored more, then hiked to Monterosso then the ferry back to Riomaggiore. I remember the light being very nice going that direction.

Though the hike can be done in 4.5 hours or less, if you're like me, it will take much longer. I'm a runner & in shape, but with all the beautiful scenery, I think I stopped every 10 feet to take another photo.

Regarding the ferry, I don't think the Monterosso to Riomaggiore takes 2 hours. La Spezia is further south.

I'd recommend taking it easy & analying the light on day one, & evaluate what you want to photograph and when the light hits it best & planning your direction based on that.

We just did this in July. I fully agree with the north to south plan and to begin early for all the same reasons given. Also, if you start early, you will have the trail to yourself for awhile.

Watch out for train strikes. Check that out before you hike. Also, the ferry does not run if the seas are rough. So, if there were both rough seas and a train strike, you could get to hike both directions. Even if there is a stike, there are usually a few trains.

Your hotel will give you a train and ferry schedule when you arrive. That is handy to keep with you. The boats quit running fairly early.

Eat at Miky's Restaurant (not the cantina) in Monterosso. It is so good, and the service is great.

This makes me want to do it again.

By the way, it took 30 minutes on the ferry to go from Manarola to Monterosso.

If you find you have any extra time or find that the main trail is too crowded, there's another photogenic hike you might consider. Friends just returned from the Cinque Terre and some of the most amazing photos they had were taken along a less-popular trail that runs south from Riomaggiore along the coast to Portovenere. The shots they took of seacliffs and rocky islands near Portovenere were spectacular. They said the hike took 4-5 hours. They did it first thing in the morning to get a steep initial climb up from Riomaggiore out of the way before it got too hot. It was mostly downhill from there. After having lunch in Portovenere, they took a ferry back to Riomaggiore and got great shots from that, too.