All good advice, thanks, I'll pass it along to my family member headed there in May.
Megaship Wednesdays...? If that's the case, does Monday/Tuesday, and Thursday/Friday offer any respite?
I assume weekends are worst, simply from people trying to squeeze in trips there over their weekends.
Let's see...avoid Wednesdays. Avoid weekends. Avoid Italian holiday weekends. Avoid May, June and September. Also avoid July and August. Avoid days when big cruise ships are in La Spezia or Genoa (see linked web pages for dates, but don't rely on them). Avoid being out from 10 am to 4 pm on any day, and during those hours, hide inside someplace or flee uphill, where the vertical terrain thins the crowds. If you want to hike the trails, do it before 9 am or after 5 pm (but not in the dark). Careful around the trains.
OK, I think I got it. She's going to love hearing my advice...