Cinque Terra

Get out early 7 to 10 am or after 5pm and the crowds are less.
That's the only thing you can do.

The Cinque Terre (note it is plural therefore Terre) have gotten busier. We first went in 2010 and loved it, although some days, even in October, were busier than others. But the nights were serene and we hiked away from the crowds on Trail #2.

We went back every year 2012, 2013, 2014, but by 2014 it was a madhouse even in October (we have always gone there in mid-to-late Oct.). The cruise ship crowds were an immense factor as evenings were still quite nice, but the little trains between the villages looked like the Japanese subway at rush hour. we have thought to visit Liguria by going to one of the towns further north, but discarded that last year in favor of a fall trip to the Berner Oberland, which remains relatively sane. (No cruise ships and high prices in SW help, I am certain.)

A few things have changed in recent years. First of all, they are running many more trains than they used to - the "Cinque Terre Express" runs pretty often, so the overcrowded trains I remembered from 2011 didn't seem so bad when I was back two months ago. Also, a couple of the trails you might have hiked last time are closed now and may still be closed in 2018, between Riomaggiore and Manarola (the famous Via dell'Amore) and between Manarola and Corniglia.

I didn't hike on my last visit two months ago - I had hiked before. I stopped in Riomaggiore which didn't seem very crowded (can't hike to Manarola so probably gets fewer people now) and took a boat (crowded) to Vernazza, which was quite crowded mid-day. A woman on the plane with me going home had hiked in the CT about the same time I was there and said it was quite crowded still.

I love the Cinque Terre, but remember there are plenty of other beautiful places in the Italian Riviera that aren't nearly so mobbed with tourists. In May, I spent three nights in the lovely town of Camogli, about an hour north by train from the Cinque Terre. Camogli is an Italian tourist town with very few Americans. I did a hike from there up to San Rocco and down to the abbey in the cove of San Fruttuoso. (There's a moderate trail and a difficult trail; I did the difficult one, which had better views I was told, but it was sometimes quite scary.) I saw few hikers on the trail for part of the way - I went over an hour without seeing other hikers. (Hiking alone in that area was kind of dumb in retrospect.) I guess most of the hikers were grouped together down on the Cinque Terre trails.

It's possible to do a day trip from a town like Camogli down to the CT towns by train, if you just want to re-visit them as I did without doing the hikes again.

We just spent two nights in Riomaggiore in early July. While certainly busy, it didn't seem overwhelming to us. We started village-hopping by 10:00am (ahead of the crush), had no trouble popping in someplace for breakfast in Manarola, and had a great lunch overlooking the beach in Monterosso, without reservations. The evenings were lovely in Riomaggiore...no crowds but you should probably reserve a table in a restaurant if you're selective. Favorite memory: sitting on our apartment balcony with a view of the harbor after dinner while a group of musicians played on the opposite balcony. We loved the CT area...breathtaking scenery and still felt authentic...even with the tourists!

I try to get to the Cinque Terre every year and have found that the crowds have increased over the years, mainly due to the cruise ship hordes. While the towns and the trains can be enormously busy especially in the afternoons, things settle down about supper time and it's much more pleasant. I tend to deal with the crowds by either touring other areas during the day, or just having a relaxing afternoon in my wonderfully tranquil hotel away from the madding crowd.

It is certainly not the way it used to be in the 1970's and 1980's when I used to go every year. Crowds have gotten worse, and last time I went a few years ago on a day trip from Florence (early May, not even in Summer) it was ridiculous. Maybe at night or early morning, but between 10 and 5, it's crowded. Vernazza is the absolute worst. I would go to Vernazza in the early morning before the crowds, then hit the trails to Monterosso. Just avoid Vernazza during 10-5 timeframe.

"Vernazza is the absolute worst."

I most definitely agree! My last visit to Vernazza (by train from Monterosso at about 16:00) was dreadful and I could hardly wait to get out of there. I would have to pick the train with three 50-60+ cruise ship groups, each with their umbrella-toting guide. Without any exaggeration, it took a good 15 minutes or more just to get off the rail platform and down to the main street. Next time I'll use a different strategy.

I was wondering if its save to take the train from Milan to Vernazza late at night?

Get to Vernazza early. In late June, I took an early train from Levanto, arriving at about 7:30 am, and had a lovely visit. At about 10 am, just as I was preparing to leave on the ferry, a huge excursion boat pulled up and disgorged hundreds of cruise ship passengers and their group leaders.

Despite the crowds, we love the C.T. and always stay in Vernazza. Have been in June 2002, July 2006, July 2009 & last visit was October 2014, 3 yrs after the devastating floods there in Oct. 2011. There are lots of people but we still love it and evenings are sooo beautiful after the daytrippers are gone. We like to take the boat to Portovenere for a daytrip and less crowds. Buon Viaggio!

I was wondering if its save to take the train from Milan to Vernazza
late at night?

mwells, see my response to your other post.