We’ve been wanting to do a winter time trip to Italy and are considering a trip around Christmas time to Florence and perhaps Rome. Appreciate the thoughts of anyone who has been recently at this time of year of what it is like - will shops and restaurants be open? How early do you need to come to make the Christmas markets?
Thanks in advance
There aren't true Xmas Markets in Rome or Florence like the ones in Germany & Austria. Rome didn't really have any Xmas Markets, but sold items in stalls in many locations - mostly Chinese imported. There is a small one in Florence near Santa Croce - you'd have to google the dates - most close down 12/23 so the vendors can return to their homes & families.
I confirm that Florence has a Xmas market in piazza S. Croce, but most stands do not even come from Italy and their time is limited. Rome has a Xmas market in piazza Navona, but the real children festival in Rome is January 6th, Epiphany. When I visited the Rome market I found it somewhat different from the usual German-like markets in north Italy.
There is a market in Piazza Navona in Rome, which has food stalls, very cool artisan Christmas ornaments for presepi (manger scenes), a carousel and a puppet theater. It's a great season to be in Rome, because even though the days are short, the temperatures are moderate and the streets are beautifully lit. Small streets are draped with white lights, and large streets like Via del Corso have an elaborate display and there is a passegiata every evening. Every church will have its own scene, and there is a tree lighting and big display at St. Peter's. The atmosphere is festive and except for Dec. 26, and January 1, restaurants are open and busy. Christmas runs through January 6, at which point seasonal retail sales begin and everything quiets down. I love Christmas in Rome!
Florence is wonderful at Christmastime. The Weihnachtsmarkt at Santa Croce aligns with Advent Calendar, so it'll likely be finished a few days before Christmas Eve/Day. When we were there in 2017, it was around the 21st they were closing down (you'll want to cross-reference this year's Advent dates with your stay if that's something you want to experience). Regarding restaurants, the only dates most were formally closed were on the 25th and on the 26th (St. Stephens Day); though some of the smaller, family-run places close a week or so before Christmas as a tradition and consideration to workers' families. Aside from hotel options, one of the few restaurants where you can secure a table on Christmas Day is Trattoria 4 Leoni (one seating at 15:30). Hope this helps!
Thank you all for the very helpful replies! Much appreciated.
