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Christmas time in Rome?

Hello All, My husband and I leave for Rome next week and return home on December 22. We have been to Rome before, especially my husband who has led study abroad trips for the university we work at. But we have never been there in winter or at Christmastime. Does anyone have recommendation for Christmastime in Rome? I wonder if any of the any of the "Villa" museums go all out for Christmas. We already have tickets for Galleria Borghese because I have never been, but does Doria Pamphilj decorate for Christmas? It would sort of be like gilding the lily, but I would go tour the apartments as well as the gallery if they put up decorations. Which churches have the best Nativity scenes? What street have excellent lights? I understand that some public lights might be scaled back this year, but there must still be some beautiful displays. Any must eat winter/Christmas foods? I love Pannatone and am looking forward to eating something other than the cheap imports that are available here. We are staying in Prati, but we are used to using the buses, the Metro and our feet to get around so it doesn't really matter where your recommendations are. Thanks!

Posted by
351 posts

The gift giving type of Christmas in Jan. 5th or 6th and December 25 is the birth of Christ, just FYI. There will be Nativity scenes every where. Think long johns, tops and bottoms, and two pairs of socks, long coat, gloves and bennie. I think your trips sounds wonderful! I love Roma that time of year. J

Posted by
8566 posts

Piazza Navona Christmas Market.

Christmas lights: Via del Corso, Via Cola di Rienzo, Via Ottaviano.

Under the Colonnade of St Peter’s Square, there is also a display called “100 Presepi”, which has 100 different nativity scenes from around the world.

Wander around looking for a church…down alley ways or neighborhoods aways from Vatican City or the Colosseum.

Search out the Santa Bambino in the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Colie. Church interior is stunning. Its on a hilltop.

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Posted by
7277 posts

We were in Rome the week before Christmas, 10 years ago - in Sicily for Christmas 2012. The Borghese wasn’t particularly festooned with holiday decorations. We didn’t know about the Doris Pamphlij Gallery until 2021, so didn’t go there until last fall - although with members of the family still living there, that could be a good liklihood of being decorated.

Food: besides Panettone, Puntarelle alla Romana will be in season, and pretty much an exclusive Roman late fall/winter specialty. It’s an appetizer “salad,” shaved chicory stems with an anchovy dressing. Really surprisingly good, before I knew precisely what was in it, and now it’s a must-have when in Rome, and at the time of year when it’s available. Pasticceria will have special baked goods for Christmas… stop in and ask for their recommendations.

Posted by
549 posts

The big tree in Piazza Venezia is up and beautifully lit. This year's controversy is that it's powered by solar panels, which apparently some people are complaining are ugly. There's also a tree and nativity scene at the Vatican. If you go there, be sure to see the "100 Presepi" exhibit under the colonnade. All this is free. Some of the smaller streets near Piazza Navona and Campo dei Fiori have charming lighting, a totally different vibe from Via del Corso. Have fun.

Posted by
3812 posts

while Italians tend to give their presents 12 days later, on Epiphany, January 6.

Uhmmm... no, they don't.

On Jan. 6 the Befana Xmas witch gives kids candies, pastries and chocolates. Or charcoal, if they have been had.

Never heard about adults exchanging gifts on the 6th.

Posted by
104 posts

Thanks for the responses, we leave in a few hours and I'm super excited and hope we don't have weather delays (already got an email from American Airlines with a warning that it is possible). Sounds like what I was already planning is the thing to do...poke into any church with open doors, wander around enjoying the lights, go to St. Peter's and see the nativities, visit bakeries, etc. Looks like rain the first day or so, then quite nice weather.

Posted by
104 posts

We are back and it was excellent! We dodged the snowstorms (but got home to a frigid Texas) and had great weather. It was so Christmassy everywhere. Many building facades were decorated with greenery and lights and lights were draped over many streets, both main shopping streets and small lanes thru neighborhoods. Some museums did have some decorations up, but I have to say they mostly looked weird. When you already have such a beautiful space, adding a bit of tinsel around a marble column or a little fake tree on top of an ornate baroque table just didn't look nice. One such place was the Spada Gallery. It is a beautiful place, but I admit I got the giggles at some of their decorations. The Colonna Gallery did a much better job with fresh greenery artfully draped and sprayed gold leaves and red berries in beautiful vases. The food was great and yes, the panettone you get there is better than what I have found at home. Every single church we saw had a nativity scene either in a side chapel or right near the altar, some with flashing Christmas lights! One of my favorite things was shopping at Castroni's. It felt like a film set with beautiful Romans doing their Christmas shopping and getting their purchases wrapped at the back counter next to the coffee bar, all bustling and beautiful. If you are deciding when to go to Rome, go at Christmas!

Posted by
467 posts

Thanks for reporting back. We were there a few years ago the day after Christmas. I enjoyed how their season is longer than ours. Not ending on Christmas Day or even Jan 1st.

Posted by
51 posts

We too, just returned from five days in Rome (it was a trip to celebrate our 50th Anniversary). Luckily, we flew to Rome from the East Coast just after a storm and returned home just before the most recent storm. Although we have been to Rome many times (but never in December) it took me about five seconds to fall in love with this city again. Mid-week, the crowds were much smaller than we have encountered in our summer and fall trips. What struck me is, although there are lights and decorations, there much less common than, say, in New York City. But, it did have a wonderful Christmas feel no matter where we were. Can't wait to return again!