Christmas in Venice

Four years ago we loved staying in Castello in Venice for the week before Christmas. The weather was cool but not cold, but we are Minnesotans and came well prepared for both cold and rain. It WAS cold to the Venetians, who were wrapped up in down parkas and fur coats, and so were their dogs. It was foggy some days, which we found beautiful --- our airbnb apartment was less than half a block from the Grand Canal, so we got to see the fog on the water and on the buildings on the opposite bank. In Castello, I don't think we heard even one non-Italian voice and there were plenty of good local places to eat. We had a week's vaporetto pass which gave us an enormous sense of freedom and we rode on the vaporetti frequently both to get to places and just for fun.

The best parts were that none of the museums, art galleries, or churches were crowded like they were when we were last in Venice in the summer. It was fun to see boats decorated with reindeer or Christmas lights or creche scenes, boats bringing loads of Christmas trees, and one day there was a boat race on the Grand Canal with everybody dressed as Santa Claus --- we watched it from the Accademia Bridge (also not crowded). We went to outdoor food markets, hardware stores, bakeries, Burano in the evening to eat at Al Gatto Nero, and many of the "lesser" churches and places (which in another city would be major tourist sites.) Wandered around, mostly avoiding the areas where tourists shop or eat. My husband took rowing lessons and we took a topa tour of the back canals which we thought was way more interesting than riding in a gondola. Loved just hanging out in the many piazze.

Can't think of any "worst" except for wishing we had a second week. I suppose we found some places were closed, but that happens any where, any time.

Read actor and art historian Peter Weller’s account in this article. https://www.google.com/amp/amp.travelandleisure.com/articles/christmas-in-venice%3fsource=dam

He’s spot on regarding the sublime serenity you’ll find at Christmas.

I spent 5 days there in 2013. I’m a photographer. It was bliss. Wasn’t completely void of tourists but not the summer hordes. Weather was cold but with blue skies. Although early in the morning there was fog.
Returning to the train station along the grand canal in the fog was a visual treat.

For me it was about getting lost and meandering.

A favorite memory was hearing singing from a church I discovered one afternoon. Poked my head inside, sat down and watched a rehearsal as a local choir practiced for their Christmas Eve performance. Single piano accompaniment. It was endearing.

My rental was at the far end of the island near the Park of Rememberance. Sitting there in late afternoon as the sun began to set was bliss. Was extremely lucky that cruise ships had stopped arriving or they would have ruined the view.

If you like less crowds and appreciate serendipity then by all means explore Venice at Christmas.

Wow now I want to go to Venice on our Christmas trip!

I noticed that Peter Weller does not cheap out on his Christmas experience, as of course Travel & Leisure authors rarely do. Any way, following the more affordable hotel link on the bottom of that article, I eventually reached this page that happened to be talking about Christmas events: http://www.thecharminghouse.com/events-venice/.