Christmas in Rome

Last year, a few days before Christmas, I witnessed the "Big Ride Roma 2015 Xmas Edition" (you-tube video, "A little tour around Rome #8"). Over 300 motorcyles with riders dressed up like Santa Claus. It starts at EUR but it passed me at the street running along Villa Borghese (with a police escort). It was a sight, all right - elves in sidecars, too.

There is an exhibition of presepi (nativity scenes) in Piazza del Popolo.

If you check santasusanna.org, you can probably find churches that have an English-language Mass.

If you are interested in a "Traditional" Latin Mass - the Extraordinary Form - on Christmas Eve you could attend the FSSP parish -Santa Trinita dei Pellegrini on

Piazza della Trinità dei Pellegrini 1
00186 Roma
This is the webpage with the schedule from last Christmas.
http://roma.fssp.it/avvisi/santo-natale-2015/
It is a beautiful church with a beautiful liturgy.

We went to Santa Susanna on Christmas Eve a couple of years ago. English Mass, as I recall early enough (18:00?) so we could have dinner after.

Reserve your Christmas Eve and Christmas Day meals 10-14 days in advance. A lot of Italians -- and tourists! -- eat out at these meals. The presepi exhibit Zoe mentioned is delightful and open every day for the season. Nice thing to do on the 25th.

Remember the 26th is also a holiday, but luckily many things are open, including the Forum, Colosseo and Palatino.

On a Rick Steves tour, we stayed at the Hotel Aberdeen near Republica. Most of the restaurants in the area were closed on Christmas Day and I suggest asking your hotel for advice to determine what options you may have. From the hotel, I walked to the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore and they celebrated a solemn high mass at midnight. Crowded and had few tourists. I arrived at 11:50 but would advise an earlier arrival. The service was wonderful and a great way to celebrate Christmas. I think churches in Rome, as back here in the States, are more crowded on that special night.

We were in Rome for Christmas this past year. I posted a trip report on this site if you care to look.

I have kids about the same age as yours and even though Christmas Eve service at the Vatican was a long wait and even though we aren't even Catholic, they all enjoyed it and said they were glad they did it. If you are not going to do the Vatican, consider the Christmas service in the Pantheon. It is a bit earlier and if I remember correctly is a gregorian chant type of service.

As far as food, there are plenty of restaurants open on Christmas Eve. The issue is a reservation. Like you, we bought food but on our walk back to our apartment near Piazza Navona, we passed by Osteria dell'Anima (osteriadellanima.com) and walked right in at midnight. Food was good and we were joined by a number of locals and had very memorable Christmas Eve meal.

Christmas day we had lunch near the Trevi Fountain and walked up to Piazza Popolo and toured the 100 nativity scenes (100 Presepi).

Enjoy your trip. For us it was a trip of a lifetime.

Oh. And make sure to make a lunch and dinner reservation for Christmas day! Finding a lunch spot is near impossible!

Joe

I posted this a few months ago, but will repeat as it may help you.

We have a favorite little trattoria where we've eaten three Christmas Eves and one New Year's Eve, Antica Taverna, just west of Piazza Navona. They do a fixed price meal those nights, and Christmas Eve it is all fish, I think more than 7 by actual count (The Feast of the 7 Fishes is a tradition on Christmas Eve). The price, which has been 45 Euro, includes wine. Do make a reservation a week or so in advance. They do speak English. Nothing fancy, but "homey" and decent Roman food, very nice people.

Thank you, everyone, for sharing all of your wonderful experiences! It is so helpful to have the advice of people who have been in Rome for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. We are looking forward to a magical time. Please keep the suggestions coming!