Hello,
We are staying at a vrbo in trastavere arriving on Christmas morning. We are not sure about heading out for an expensive meal so have thought about cooking on our arrival night. Are any grocery stores open? If not where would you suggest weary travelers go for dinner?
Thanks!
Ouch! I've been in Rome at Christmas and I doubt you'll find any stores open at which to buy groceries. Very few restaurants are open on Christmas Day. Perhaps contacting the VRBO host might help in locating an open restaurant or stocking the rental with some basics before you arrive. Auguri!
You might hope fo find food at the airport or train station. Even fast food might be welcome if that's all there is!
There are tons of restaurants open on Christmas Day, but only mini-markets for food purchases. You do need a reservation, though, as many many Italians eat out, too.
I like the ghetto for Christian holidays. Giggetto, Il Giardino Romano, and many others that are very nice and not crazily priced. Some hotels and fancier restaurants do fixed-price menus of €100 or more per person, if that appeals.
I would set a lunch reservation (Christmas Lunch is a bigger deal than the evening meal) for maybe 14:00 or 15:00. Go to your apartment, freshen up, take a walk (You may find it possible to walk to a restaurant in the centro depending on where your apartment is), eat, then allow yourselves a short nap. 60-90 minutes can do the trick. After dark, get out and see the lights before you crash at 21:00.
The 26th is more normal. Although it is a holiday, many sights are open, and it will be very busy in the streets.
We were in Rome last year for Christmas and there were plenty of restaurants open on Christmas Day however if you don't make a reservation wel in advance (both lunch and dinner) you will have a long wait and/or may not get in.
If you don't speak Italian, you can try the OpenTable equivalnet (www.quandoo.it)
We had lunch in a little place near Trevi Fountain named Al Picolo Aarancio (+39 06 6786139)
and dinner in a place 1/2 way between the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon named Il Baccano (+39 06 69941166)
Both were good but I thought the lunch place was better. For lunch, we walked right past a line of 30 people waiting as we had a reservation.