Contemplating a winter school break trip in February to take grandsons to Venice and Rome. Dates I have to work with fall in the earlier weeks of Carnivale. My first Carnivale was in 1999, and it was one magical week. Returned in 2008, and it was much more crowded, a circus of cell phone photographers and over-served students. Reminded me more of Mardi Gras in New Orleans, but we were there in the ending days of Carnivale. Has anyone been in the last 2-3 years? What's your take?
Posted by
Atlanta, GA
704 posts
I was in Venice for Carnivale in 2015 and 2017, for two weeks each time. It's crazy and crowded, but manageable. We would usually head to St. Mark's before sunrise. From 6:30 - 8:30 or so, we would see mostly mask people and photographers. Around 8:30 or 9:00 we would head back to the apartment, sometimes stopping for fish and veggies at the Rialto Market along the way. Then, we would have breakfast and maybe a short nap. Late in the morning and into the afternoon we would head back out to see other parts of Venice: Dorsoduro, the Accademia, Canareggio ---- anywhere but St. Mark's. One day, we weren't thinking and got off at the San Zaccaria vaporetto stop at midday. What a zoo! Riva degli Schiavoni was virtually impassable. Anyhow, late in the afternoon or early evening we would generally head to either San Zaccaria or San Giorgio, both of which are good places to see mask people. In 2015 we went to see fireworks at the Arsenale one evening, and it was crowded but not unreasonably so.
If you go during Carnivale, make sure to get some Fritelli. They're kind of like doughnuts filled with cream, raisins and and a touch of booze --- and they only make them during Carnivale. Absolutely magnificent! All the bakeries sell them.
If possible, I would try to arrange staying a few days after Carnivale. On Wednesday morning after Carnivale, most of the crowds will vanish.
So, the bottom line is that, yes, it is crowded, but I would do it again in a heartbeat.
(Oh, and the crowds in Venice are generally a lot more sober than those in New Orleans. :-) I love Mardi Gras in New Orleans, too, but, as with Venice, one has to plan activities away from the worst of the crowds. Mardi Gras can be quite magical if done just a bit off the beaten path. )
Posted by
OP
Atlanta
972 posts
Marie, thanks for the very helpful info! Some of my best trips to Venice have been week long ones, and I'm envious that you've stayed two. I love Venice off season, but working around school schedules complicates things. We've got another break the week before Easter, but then Rome will be a zoo. Carnivale sounds doable, and Easter week might work if we started in Rome the weekend before and ended in Venice. Still thinking on this one. Your insights help!
Posted by
Atlanta, GA
704 posts
Hi Ruth, I hope the trip works out for you.
Here are a few pictures to give you an idea of the crowds (I hope it's legal to post links).
- St. Marks early in the morning:
https://mariematthews.smugmug.com/Venice-Carnival/i-DZPCHdH/A - Riva degli Schiavoni at noon:
https://mariematthews.smugmug.com/Venice-Carnival/i-XgQ8Lrk/A
By the way, one of most interesting things we did was Row Venice -- https://rowvenice.org/ Our instructor was passionate about Venice and rowing. We learned so much, and I think you and your grandsons might enjoy it. We certainly did. You will need to make reservations in advance.
Posted by
2507 posts
Those pictures are fabulous! I can’t believe the costumes! It would be worth the crowds just to see them.