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Capri heads up

We had a brief stay on Capri recently, and were surprised how poor the food generally was. At one place that had a Michelin star, the food was probably one of the worst meals I've had in all of Italy (sin of all sins... bland!). We finally were able to tease from the waiter that the previous chef left right when covid hit, and they're trying to break in a new one.

Makes sense and I don't blame them for the predicament - but a heads up for anybody going for fine dining, pay attention to recent reviews as a lot has changed. Seems like this might be an issue for a lot of places. I've been of the lazy attitude that a Michelin starred restaurant is automatically solid, was a costly mistake. We kept chuckling imagining the reviewer's reaction upon returning to the restaurant... insert Italian profanity here.

We finally tracked down some off-the-beaten-path spots that were delicious. They seemed to cater more to locals, probably retained their talent with take-out.

As a random aside for parking (was difficult to find info on this) - we parked at the Molo Beverello port in the Buono Garage, reserved ahead of time and they were packed. Something like 70 euros for 4 days. Phone is (+39) 335499658, I think Italian speaking only. There are a few other lots in the area but I don't know their contact info. Was very difficult to find the lot, count on calling and having them direct you which tree to turn at (not joking). Car was all fine when we returned, and was only 2-3 min walk to the ferry - we took a chance and all was fine. I hadn't been warned about Naples driving, it was interesting.

Posted by
1078 posts

My wife and I noticed the same thing in Colorado Springs last fall, we went to two restaurants that are internationally known for fine dining and both were very disappointing, in one the manager came out and apologized to us. The Covid pandemic has taken it toll on the travel industry! We're heading to Spain in September and I hope things will be more normal by then.

Posted by
7049 posts

I am not sure whether your review for all of Capri is based on a single restaurant or several, but it just goes to show that "money can't buy you love". I found that you don't need to spend exorbitant amounts of money on food in Italy to get a very good value - all you need is to let fresh ingredients shine. Places like Capri cater to well-heeled tourists, so no surprise you'd get overcharging and underdelivery. I probably would have requested a different dish if that one wasn't to your liking.

Posted by
19 posts

Definitely wasn’t just one dish or one restaurant, a Michelin starred restaurant should always be excellent. I think it’s just a Covid issue with some places to keep in mind.

(And we’re not foody snobs, the best meals I’ve had in Italy are mostly unassuming local spots).

We met a couple from Naples who’ve been coming to Capri for a long time and they agreed that food generally is touristy. Their one recommendation was Le Grottelle, which was fantastic for both food and location.

Posted by
2707 posts

Places like Capri cater to well-heeled tourists, so no surprise you'd get overcharging and underdelivery

I disagree. Many places in Europe, such as Capri, cater to tourists of all stripes and I’ve enjoyed good meals in many of these places based on recommendations from locals, our hotel, guidebooks. Michelin has been pretty dependable but the pandemic has wreaked havoc with the restaurant business so any guide you depend on was penned pre-COVID and therefore likely unreliable. Seeking out the mom and pop places may be a better strategy.

Posted by
5 posts

OP, any recommendations in addition to Le Grotelle? We are going end of July for a week.