Can you fall in love with Venice in just 2 days?

Perhaps, if you can avoid all the tourists from the cruise ships. Oh wait...

Judgements, DougMac? I'll take it as humour, however, and give you the benefit of a doubt. Mode of transport is somewhat driven by physical limitations. 2 days land trip in Venice? Yes, original planned 3 weeks land trip? No. And a tome of why and why not doesn't keep readers reading and my answer answered. I get the current problems of cruisers in Venice. I am more than happy to have them shift the port somewhere else. The ship is small.

I fell in love with Venice when I walked out of the train station 9 years ago and we’ve visited 10 times now.

Fte. Nove is not a place I could fall in love, though. Dorsoduro maybe, especially if you will go to the Accademia, or San Polo, away from the Rialto. The latter is my favorite area as the tourist crush is less (except for the parade from Rialto to Campo San Polo). I like Dorsoduro but found it less convenient to get around in general and with only 2 nights, you want some convenience. I love going out to Torcello and Burano, less touristed than main Venice. Lunch at Mazzorbo is a treat and a world apart. We might stay out there next time!

Can you make it 3 nights so you have two full days?

Well I fell in love with Venice with the first view from the plane. We took the Alilaguna from the airport to the hotel, and I knew I was hooked. We stayed three nights.

Certainly you can see the beauty in 2 days. Maybe you should take time to sit over long meals. That often is the best part of our traveling day!

Three nights and 2 days would be perfect. We stayed 5 nights and it was too long.

My first time in Venice our train arrived at about 5am. It was definitely the best time of the day. If you can, wake up early and take a nap in the early afternoon. We didn't see any of the museums there and still enjoyed it. I think 5-6 days would be too much actually. We also bought the multi-day pass for the water taxis and enjoyed the ride to Lido. Got there and didn't like the look of all the car traffic and turned around and went back.

Humor with a touch of truth. If you can visit the areas that aren't as crowded you may fall in love with Venice.

There's no guarantee that the things that prevented you from falling in love with Venice the first time won't happen again. It may be raining again. If you are near St. Mark's, you'll run the umbrella risk again, but it will be more intense that it was 18 years ago. Since this will be at the end of your trip, especially if you have mobility issues (since you mentioned wandering, assumed you had no mobility issues), you may again be travel weary and just plain tired.

You'd have Friday night, Saturday morning and Saturday night when it would be less crowded. I consider Venice a great place to explore on foot. Will your mobility issues allow that?

Maria, definitely give it another chance! Be sure to walk around in the early morning and evenings after the day trippers are gone. If you really dislike it, you could always take the train to Padova, Vicenza or Verona for the second day.

"will I have enough time to get enough of a feel for it to let me fall in love with it; or reinforce that it isn't for me?"

Yes.

Both are totally possible, and you won't know until you get there. My sister had a similar reaction to Venice that you did. She just didn't "feel the love" that so many have for it. She also first saw it in the rain - maybe that's it? Personally, I appreciate its uniqueness but haven't fallen in love with it they way I have with Paris and Rome and Berlin.

Do follow your plan to stay away from the most crowded areas at the most crowded times of day. Fondamente Nove is a good idea, and as a bonus, that's where the boats to some of the other islands leave from, so it's actually easy to see them if you want. I enjoyed a visit to San Michele, the cemetery island (a short trip from Fondamente Nove - even closer than Murano).

I always quote Rick's sage words: "While 80 percent of Venice is, in fact, not touristy, 80 percent of the tourists never notice. Hit the back streets." If you want to maximize your chance of loving Venice, be sure to follow this advice.

Fell in love with Venice many, many years ago. Return often and still love it, but sometimes it’s hard, with the crowds, too many bad restaurants. I often think about what the late newspaper columnist Herb Caen said about Seattle “it’s like being married to a beautiful woman who’s always sick”. But go, get off the beaten track, save your wandering for late afternoon/evening when many tourists leave and you will like it a lot more, maybe love it.

Thanks for the constructive feedback. 3 nights means leaving during the week, and I need to try and make it back to work Monday - Tuesday, maybe, in a pinch, but trying for Monday. Too much later might mean a 'no' to vacation - there are multiple reasons, and I understand why it is so.
I am an experienced solo traveler, and tend to self debark, so it is really a walk myself and luggage off the boat, onto the people mover, drop off luggage at train station or Nannybag location and can be wandering the districts by 10.
I had planned a vaporetto pass to avoid some of the walking and crowds enroute to San Marco. I can never get too much boat time.
Mary, our first arrival was also at the train station at 5 a.m. we sat on the steps admiring the building where one of the Indiana Jones movies was filmed and watching the sun rise and the challenges of big luggage and wheels on steps and bridges ;-). Unfortunately, it sort of went downhill from there though we really enjoyed the Doge's Palace.
Laurel, thank you for the opinion of Fte Nove. As planes are mid day, I could afford to be more central and on the vaporetto route for access. I'll look at your suggested alternatives.
Andrea, on my own, I am not much of a people watcher, and as meals are often long, I had hopes to linger over a gelato or drink in a square to watch life go by rather than a full on dinner. I was thinking ciccheti rather than 3 courses....and somewhere with no english on the menu.
DougMac, physical issues are more to do with cumulative factor of days and days of being on my feet in museums and pounding pavement between. I am on the cruise as it takes much less toll on me than land travel, and I actually debark rested, so yes, thanks, I can afford the time it takes to wander Venice. I'm generally early out and early 'home', but will work on a break in the day for dusk strolls or drinks in the piazza to take advantage of the pre-post day tripper hours. As to chance for a 'redo' of the bad trip, you are correct. It could happen again. Weather, I can't control, nor crowds, but I plan to simplify everything that I have control over.
Jean, I will - but if I really dislike it, I'll head to the islands. I am a bird watcher and May still has bird migration:-) Torchello, St. Michele or San Erasmos if I can get to them (more birds, fewer tourists). Padua, et al is for the future Bologna based land trip ;-)
Sounds like 2 days will give me an inkling of how I really feel about it. I'll aim for more, but if I need to negotiate days, then I at least can figure out whether a repeat trip is worth it or not.
Thanks for the incites and suggestions.

We are talking May of 2020 yes?

I'd disembark far from the maddening crowds. Anwyhere away from St Mark's Square.

The whole concept of cruise ships allowed near Venice makes me very sad.

As far as your question about two days to fall in love. You will or you won't.

I travel off season so no cruise ships or massive hordes of people to avoid.

Loved getting lost in Venice, only to discover children practicing for a Christmas choir, the Libreria Aqua Alta, and watching mosaic tiles being created in the Cannaregio neighborhood. Not too mention best fresh seafood and pasta meals at Osteria Ai 40 Ladroni.

As I said you will either love Venice or be bored. Same way I feel about the Grand Canyon.

I believe you can enjoy Venice in that amount of time. We have twice, once as a couple and just recently with our adult children in tow. It was everything I'd hoped to share with them -- and they loved it as much as my wife and I did on our first trip there.

I also believe that the key to Venice is avoiding the throngs -- who from all reports on this forum -- are the fault of cruise ships. Whether cruise ships are the true villains (there were SEVEN docked as we departed Venice) that cause crowds or just that Venice is a remarkable tourist draw can be left for others to argue about.

So, to avoid the throngs... Get up early to see St. Mark's. And go back just as they're about to close up the piazza at night. (Maybe before you get to St. Mark's, stop by the fish market that rolls early, too. It wasn't as stunning this time as it was six years ago, but it was still lively.)

The basilica itself is amazing and worth a visit. But steel yourself to waddle through as though you're waiting in Disneyland for the Pirates of the Caribbean. Plunk the three Euros per person down online to skip the line at least. It's not less crowded when you're inside, but you can beat the queue. My son bought them on his cell phone while we were waiting for everyone to meet in the piazza. Be ready to jostle and be jostled -- and to pony up the extra euros to see the treasures if you're so inclined. Oh, and they're serious about women covering the knees and shoulders, so plan for that. I wore shorts, though, and they didn't complain. Go figure.

But also go to the piazza at night - after the cruisers have departed - and spend some money on a cold beer or other cool drink. We were there as a restaurant's orchestra played their last notes. With maybe just a few hundred people in the whole piazza joining us it was magical. Occasionally pausing at the few shops that were still open, we headed back to our hotel instead of taking the boat back -- really, we more meandered back, and we and our adult children loved it.

What else to do during the day while the city is jammed?

Walk where the tourists aren't and get lost. Venice doesn't have a huge footprint, so you won't get REALLY lost wandering around, but you'll avoid the crowds. As Rick Steves points out in his guide book, 80% of the tourists hang out in 20% of the city. To paraphrase Yogi Berra, you can see a lot by looking - and by wandering around where the tourists ain't. The Jewish ghetto is a good place to aim for, and it's important from a historical and human perspective anyway. If you love taking pictures, you'll have plenty of sites to grab with your camera when you're away from the crowds. And you just won't be shoulder-to-shoulder as you will on the Rialto Bridge.

Also, get the boat pass for your time there. It makes moving through town on the water really easy to do -- and gives you a great way to literally sit and enjoy the heart of Venice as you motor on its main canals. Work your way to the beginning of the route for the #1 boat (I think). Plop yourself down in the bow, and then listen to Rick's downloadable tour of Venice. Do it once during the day when Venice is crazy with tourists and the canals are jammed with traffic - and again at night when the tourists are gone and the canals empty as a church on Wednesday afternoons. You'll see two different places -- and at night things sparkle like your first love's smile!

We stayed in Foscari Palace and had one of the most memorable family nights we ever had on our last night there. They have a rooftop patio (likely many places do), but it's a bring your own kind of thing - no hotel bar. We bought breads, meats and cheeses and a couple bottles of wines... Then we sat and listened to church bells peel as the sun set and the red tiled roofs glowed with a beauty that Hollywood would covet to share on film. And my wife, my children and I will never forget that night, I am sure.

I did not particularly love Venice when I visited 20 years ago, so was pleasantly surprised when my husband wanted the go there about 10 years ago and I really enjoyed it. My suggestion is to wander around the less touristed neighborhoods and take time to stop for a caffe, drink or appertivo. I found the Accademia to not be a favorite museum, i preferred the Peggy Guggenheim Museum and the Doges Palace.

Although two days IS short, it also IS enough time to "capture a feeling"! Since you have already visited Venice, you don't have to re-visit places you've already seen--unless you want to try for a different impression. Instead of St. Mark's, ride the vaporetto over to San Giorgio Maggiore and take the elevator to the top of the campanile. Amazing views and few crowds! Wander off the main routes and explore. We had four days in late March (hit it lucky--beautiful weather!) and found there were many interesting piazzas adjoining out-of-the-way churches that were on the Chorus Pass. Enjoyed some great food and drink, people watching, rest--then were close to some amazing--and quiet!--churches and their art. Just keep your eyes open for "simple pleasures". My favorite "dinner" in Venice was on the patio at the aforementioned Hotel Foscari Palace--sandwiches, chips, and bottled Spritzes from the Coop store while we watched the boats (and gondoliers) on the Grand Canal.

Sure, your time may seem short--during our working years we have to work with the vacation schedule that's available, not necessarily the schedule we dream of. Be sure to take time to enjoy what you want to see--and to pass on anything that seems too crowded, etc. I hope you can "feel the love" for Venice on this trip!

Despite the predictable & tiresome opprobrium shown for "cruisers" by some on this forum, they are a small minority of visitors to Venice. In May on a Friday and Saturday, many of the crowds will be made up of Britons and Europeans who've flown in for a weekend break.

I think you can love Venice in 2 days - though I'm not responsible for the weather. You might look at staying along or near the Cannaregio canal. It is on a water service route to the airport and nearer to your ship port than fte Nove. It's also convenient for exploring some of the less touristy north-western parts as well as the big hitters. I'd spend day one away from the "main drag" and instead in Cannaregio/Ghetto, even having that leisurely lunch, then in the evening take a water-bus "cruise" along Grand canal and see St Mark's square and around at dusk. Then next day start early to walk over to the Accademia (30-60 minutes walk, at a guess, depending how much you stop), and spend the rest of the day around Dorsoduro and on the water. Mine might be a minority view, but I think the real delight of Venice is going through/around it on the water-buses (occasionally getting off to eat & drink in the smaller squares), rather than being inside the specific sights.

Harold and Alan, thanks for the additional support. Alan, love the quote.

I did think Fte Nove was convenient. I also am intrigued by the Jewish ghetto, though it isn't my faith. I think there are multiple options for convenient but off the tourist path lodgings close to vaporettos, so I'll try to be open minded on location. I expect it will speak to me...and if it has a full tub for old bones, all the better.
Rain, well, yes, I see there is a good chance for that, but I am hoping that rain while rested will be better than rain while travel weary. Churches (and there are plenty) offer good respites. I think we did more museums last time which were further apart - and I will avoid Merceria Oroloigo like the plague.
Claudia, I know. I am contributing to a mess :-( I am typically so green at home, but I have a bit of a selfish streak when it comes to travel. I will aim to improve. I hope to go by the trageto boat yard. I love the smell of shaved wood and boats being built. In Florence, we stayed across from a church. There was an afternoon baroque recital going on, so we sat on the deep window well with the windows open listening to the sounds of heaven.
gbrennen, thankfully, as I have been, I don't intend to revisit St Mark's Square except perhaps for an overprice apertivo at dusk and to see the clock which was under renovation wraps when I was there. The cathedral was sadly crowded and disappointing. I did love standing by the horses on the upper balcony, however. I have been to Istanbul for mosaics, and will go to Ravenna for theirs, so no need to revisit. Doge's Palace was wonderful and for some reason, very very empty when we were there .

Becky, glad you had a change of heart. I have hopes. It sounds like the Accademia is less of a draw now than then. I have seen wonderful art in Madrid since then. I'll review what's at the Accademia. I just remember watching it sadly from the vaporetto wishing I had made the time. Maybe it will be Peggy's place ;-)
Funny about the concept of 'getting lost'. For one, I don't like getting lost...I am a bit of a control freak and hate backtracking. When last there, that was a big part of the problem....but then we also had things to do at set times. The thought of purposely letting myself get lost brings on a nervous itch.....I think the best I can do is no time schedule and to just wander...with a good map in my pocket.

We have stayed in the Cannarregio district twice and Dorsuduro one. Both were nice, but we found we like the Cannaregio district better. We do use the vaporetto, but walk mostly. We have wandered the backstreets and popped into churches that we would never have seen. One time, almost crashed a funeral. As soon as we open the door and saw the casket we quietly backed out and closed the door. We went a block away and were watching. It was interesting to see the casket and family loaded onto a small boat and driven away. The rest of the mourners waved to the family.

Have seen trash boats picking up trash very early in the morning. What we think were boats picking up kids to go to school and ambulance boats with sirens on. All of this from our hotel window on the Canareggio canal. We fell in love with Venice. Although Rome is at the top of my list.

I agree with what everyone else said about getting about early and late when the day trippers are not there.

Have a Great Trip and let us know what you think after being there.
Mimi

Den, Nick and Mimi, thanks for sharing your memories and supporting the albeit short plan.

Nick, I sort of want to defend myself to the cruise nay sayers to say I am not a 'lazy' traveler, or what others consider a 'typical' cruiser, but like any demographic, it is the bad ones that give all the others a bad name. There are plenty of thoughtful ones that head away from the crowd, do volunteer work on their port day, or try to actually be a thoughtful port tourist, but I doubt I could sway the judgements. That's okay. I can be open minded.
One other question - exactly where is the Canneregio canal? Is that the one from the Grand Canal past Guglie and Crea vaporetto stops?
Foscari Palace sounds wonderful.
Thanks again.

Maria - yes that's the one, I think Guglie stop is for the airport "bus", but better to check than rely on my memory. From what I recall, the service to the airport only departs from one side, but there's a bridge nearby.

Hi Maria,

I went to Venice last May with a group of 6, my husband and I our friends and our college-aged daughters and we stayed for 3 days (one traveling to Murano). The group was equally split on Venice, the two younger girls and I fell in love with Venice, my husband and friends, not so much. I think you will know when you visit again if Venice holds a special appeal.

What I loved about Venice was its beauty, history, and yes its food. The challenge is that you have to look past the throng of tourists to see it. We stayed in the Cannarregio district, a 10 minute walk to the Rialto, but in a flat on a quiet square. In the morning, the kids gathered on their way to school and in the evening the people who lived in the flats came out to enjoy the weather. I did all the grocery shopping, going to the pharmacy, and getting coffee in the early morning at the “bar” down the street. I really did feel more like a resident than a tourist in that location. The trick for me and the girls is we got up early and stayed out late and wandered. We visited the Rialto, St. Marks and Doge’s palace and mid-day there are crowds, no way to avoid them.

What my husband and friends did not like about Venice were the crowds, especially my husband. Both my friends have mobility issues and they didn’t like all the walking and getting lost. Everyone loved the gondola ride, however. No singing and we went through some of the smaller canals—it was magical.

I have convinced my husband to go back again and give it another chance. I would like him to experience a little of the magic I felt. How I convinced him might be of value for your trip:

• Lodge away from St. Marks—you will have to walk more, but you will have a better chance of avoiding the tourists.
• Participate more in the everyday activities (go to the market even if just to buy a drink, snack, eat in the Cannaregio or Dorsduro areas. Wander the back streets and relish getting lost (even with GPS, you will get lost)
• Take a food tour, we took one last time and it was the highlight of the trip and as a solo traveler, it is a great way to meet other people and share experiences.
• Put yourself in the shoes of the locals as much as tourism has brought positive impacts, it has also changed their way of life and in many cases not for the better. My husband felt that he could not have a local experience in Venice and that was because he wasn’t recognizing the reality of what it means to be a long-time resident in Venice. With a different eye on “local”, he may have a different experience.

I, on the other hand, had interesting discussions with our tour guide from Walks of Italy about how she lives in her Grandmother’s because she cannot afford the real estate prices. I shared with her the challenges that we face in Silicon Valley with the same pressures on long-time residents because of tech (not tourism). Had similar discussions at the coffee bar in the morning (usually it was just me as no one was up yet). Through those discussions, we shared some connection (however short), learned more about what it is like to live in Venice today, and how locals are grappling with the change.

Hope it helps and let us know if you fell in love or reaffirmed your original neutral view.

Sandy

Attitude makes a difference. You can have a great date without falling in love. Or it can be love at first sight. I've known people who went there expecting to be amazed and entertained at every corner, and could not handle the shabby side of things. Others just took it all in, and recognized its a place to be where people actually live, not an amusement park.

Typically, I rent apartments, so wandering by the homeless sleeping under the eaves of the Caixa forum in Madrid to get to the local Carrefour isn't new. I volunteered in Africa in my 50's and travelled out to the villages where there was little. Ecuador for a month on my own. I am relatively comfortable with real life and maybe that will be the saving grace with this trip to Venice. I was not as globally experienced last visit. As more of a loner, I may miss out on the chats with the local (coffee) bar tender, but I may stop to take a photo of the kids playing football in the piazza, or search out a garden to see what is blooming. It has been scenes from human life that has brought smiles to my face and retained memories -- though I do love beautiful art and Churches. So Stan, I agree. Attitude and not assuming to be entertained as an amusement park offers potential for success.
So, it sounds like walking out the door early in the morning with a general direction in mind and no timeframe may lead to a change in mindset.
....but it won't be Frascari Palace - way over my Cdn$ budget for those dates.

Maria check out the Hotel Flora. Very near San Marco but just far enough away. The rooms can be tiny. Many years ago we spent a week in Venice taking a cooking class from the late great Marcella Hazan. Her apartment was near the Hospital SS Giovani e Paulo. We would walk from the Flora to St. Marks. There is a statue of a lion on the your left as you face the church. Then we would look up to see a sign that said “Ospedale”. We’d walk watching for those signs and, eventually, wind up where we were going. To get back we’d look for the “Per San Marco” signs. Or if we wanted to go to the Rialto Bridge the “Per Rialto” signs. It is a bit of a maze but you can’t get too lost-it’s an island. A lesson we learned though, if you see something you might want to buy, buy it. Finding your way back to “that store” can be a challenge. We stopped to see some beautiful hand made women’s clothing, hand painted. The proprietor was a descendant of the Fortuny family, making fabric since the early 1900’s. Well, the blouse was expensive. We passed and spent a good part of the next day finding the store and buying it (gulp). She still wears it, it still looks beautiful. Have never seen anything like it since. That was 1989.

Maria:
If you stay in the Canareggio sestiere, then you will be out of the tourist-y areas, especially if you stay further in towards the lagoon.
Twice now we have stayed there, and one apartment opened onto the Canareggio Canal, so central but not crowded; and easy to get the Alilaguna boat to the airport from the Guglie stop.

Watch the movie Bread and Tulips to get you in the mood. When in Venice, if you have the time, go into the train station turn around and exit and pretend you are Katherine Hepburn in Summertime. And, read Miss Garnet's Angel, then hunt for the angel in situ. Or read Donna Leon's series and go hunt down the questura as a little treasure hunt when in Venice. Lots of ways to prep for falling in love on the spot - just probably not In St. Mark's. Though, sometimes I visit the touristy areas via webcam in the early morning and only 1 or 2 souls are crossing the piazza. Wonderful. Try skyline webcams for some good pics.

Alan, thanks for the tips. I know Fortuny and their history. How lucky to have an original piece in the wardrobe. I was so bummed when the Fortuny Museum was closed for repairs when there last. Now the Palazzo exists as an exhibit hall, but not the museum.
SJ, thanks for recommendation for location and relevant vaporetto stop. I have been eyeing Venice B&B Venezia which I think is near there. I might regret the 2 story walkup and shared bathroom, but the proprietor sounds like he is worth it all.
Debbie, thanks for helping me develop a personalized summer reading lost.

To answer your question in one word: YES

For more words: We were in Venice just a day and a 3/4ths of a day.........totally loved it. We were catching a sailboat cruise (60-something people) on the historic SeaCloud down thru Croatia and Italy, then returned to Venice in the early morning before flying home.

Arriving by water taxi (from the airport) was truly magical, we stayed in a small hotel (Hotel Le Isole..small hotel, room with French balcony...view of canal from two sides of the room, included a fabulous breakfast, adult beverages/soft drinks in room included and afternoon tea) on a small quiet canal but just a very short 5-minute walk to all the action at St. Marks square, lines were not long in early October, but we did see hordes of people on the main drag (and we quickly left that area after venturing into it), but did not find it too crowded elsewhere (including St. Mark's plaza). Departing and then arriving via water was magical, but the SeaCloud catches the eyes of others, too.

In our time, we enjoyed St. Marks (mass then toured upstairs), Doge's Palace, the vaparetto loop, a bit of popping into shops, and just wandering, along with time relaxing in the enclosed outdoor patio of our hotel (we brought back to-go food for dinner there....very pleasant and quiet). If we had more time, my husband would have climbed the bell tower, and we may have gone to one of the other islands...........but we had enough time to enjoy the ambiance and be thrilled with the experience. Just watching the gondolas prep for their days (from our little balcony) and seeing the equivalent of the UPS, laundry, etc. gondolas do their early-morning rounds, and then seeing tourists from Asia all decked out in fancy outfits on gondolas on our little canal before breakfast, as "Venice woke up" was so enjoyable, and incredibly relaxing. Where you stay does matter.

But, yes, fall in love with the place, even if it is just a "travel fling"of a fast-forward love affair....you will hold those memories dear for life.

Do take the vaparetto tour that is recommended in the RS Guidebook...we did the entire loop and it was a great way to see a lot and enjoy the atmosphere quickly. Grab a seat in front of the wheelhouse, as is recommended in his guidebook. Great entertainment for a really low price.

Safe travels and report back if you fall in love :)

Thanks for the support Maggie - and the hotel recommendations. I may not choose that area, but will take away the recommendation of a room view and a canal. Thanks.

Maria, we have spent many weeks in Venice and I am definitely in love with the city.

Since you mentioned Chorus Churches, I highly recommend you prioritize my personal favorite, Santa Maria die Miracoli. We have never even been inside; I just like to walk past almost every day, to marvel at its beauty from the outside.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Maria_dei_Miracoli,_Venice

I will also recommend our favorite campo, San Giacomo da l'Orio in San Polo. No tourists there; just locals ( and some trees for welcome shade). We came across a local street fair there, with a small ensemble playing music, some food booths, some vendors selling local crafts, organizations promoting their causes, and political booths. Lots of families. I do not know if there is a café or bar where you can sit and have a sandwich or a pizza, but it is worth the walk in any case.

Get out to walk in the morning, when the parents are walking their small children to school. You will see moms with each hand joined to a scooter-pushing child, sometimes with the family dog following along.

As for where to stay, I see you have already been advised against Fondamente Nova and I agree. If you plan to take the Alilaguna to the airport, I would also caution you against Guglie. The last two times we rode to the airport on the Alilaguna, we boarded at Rialto and the boat almost filled up there. One or two people were allowed on at San Stae. The people waiting at Guglie we left standing on the dock. This was during October when they use the smaller boats on the Grand Canal because of potential acqua alta. I don't know it it happens at other times, but personally I would not want to take the chance. The Ca'Rezzonico stop would be a better choice if you wish to avoid Rialto area.

Lola, thanks for the expert advise. The problem of crowded vaporettos is one I didn't think of. I appreciate that.
I have Santa Maria de Mercoli on my 5 day list, and on the train to Toronto today, I am revisiting the list and DK guide to Venice to do some shortlisting.
I'll seek out your favourite campo. Some cities don't seem to lend themselves as well to early morning introductions, I think. Several times I had an 8 hour layover in Amsterdam after a night flight from Tanzania. It arrives at 7a.m. Easy train ride to town, but then you pretty much need to take the main party route to 'anywhere'. Dodging vomit or lingering clouds of pot smoke from the revelers who have only just vacated isn't my favourite introduction. Things stay quiet for another hour or so and then you are on a crash course of pedestrian/bicyclist etiquette. If you find yourself in the Vondelpark on a sunny Saturday morning in May, however, one can spend hours on a bench (in my case nursing a broken shoulder not yet diagnosed) watching the city folks enjoying their green space. Few were tourists.

Maria, Santa Maria dei Miracoli was wonderful, great recommendation by Lola. I'd read about it in 'City of Falling Angels' and had it on my list. Our B and B host said it was his favorite church in Venice when we said we were headed there. The walk there and back was great - away from the crowds - and it is a smaller church so didn't feel overwhelming to us, like some of the big ones can. Only 3 other people inside when we went.

"Love at first sight" is not totally a fantasy. But I tend to think that falling in love takes time and a little privacy.

It sounds like the last time you went to the prince's ball, it was raining, you arrived late, and you were a bit younger. This time sounds a little like speed dating in a crowded bar...

I fell in love with Venice on an unplanned sidetrip to silent little Torcello, and sharing a family room with 3 students because the Pope was in town, and getting completely lost walking back streets one afternoon but not caring, and finding a bookstore in a basement with a gondola in the middle of it, and sitting next to a woman in a fur coat in the hospital emergency room to get my skinned knee bandaged.

Maybe you should save Venice for a future visit, when you have more time to do nothing beautifully? Then, I suspect, you will fall in love.