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Buongiorno from the ground in Firenze!

Ciao a tutti... my husband and I arrived to Florence on Friday and thought I would post some periodic updates. We are spending 8 nights in Florence as I will be taking Italian classes at Scuola Leonardo da Vinci starting tomorrow, so a bit of a different trip for us but we absolutely love Florence so we are excited!

Left Seattle midafternoon on Thursday, connected in CDG. We have never connected there--only flown in and out of, and it was... a lot. It took us nearly 2 hours between the plane landing until we were in the AirFrance lounge. Luckily we had a 4 hour connection. It wasn't necessarily confusing, the signage was clear, it was just SLOW and distances between things was long. I know that comes as no surprise to folks here but just adding it as a data point. Flight from CDG to FLR was quick and without issue.

Covid stuff: we are fully vaxxed and boosted, had Covid in January so got letters of recovery from our doctors, AND took proctored BinaxNow home tests just to be safe. AirFrance allowed us to upload our vax cards and dPLF ahead of time, so we were able to get our boarding passes with a "ready to fly" label without issue.

We are staying at an AirBNB right in the Piazza del Duomo. I know some may not love being right in the middle of things, but we couldn't pass this place up. The details and artwork are amazing and the view of the Duomo from the living and bedroom is really incredible. After we got settled in on Friday, we managed to shower and drag ourselves outside to get panini at All'Antica Vinaio and gelati before crashing around 7pm (we didn't sleep at all on the flight--even in business class!). Yesterday, (Saturday), we spent the day without plans just wandering around the city. Went for panini again from I Frattelini--it has a soft spot for us as it's right downstairs from the AirBNB we stayed at when we were here last and we just loved having it right there. It's actually quite crowded in the city which we've been surprised by! It was quieter when we were here in August.

This morning, we took at 8:30am train to Pisa to meet up with David from Pisa Explorers for a 2 hour walking tour. I highly recommend this tour if you're interested in learning about Pisa beyond the leaning tower! We booked it through AirBNB experiences. We wandered around the 4 quarters learning about the city's history before finishing at the Field of Miracles for some quintessential photos. I actually quite enjoyed Pisa--I often hear that "there's nothing there other than the tower" but I very much disagree and think it's worth at least half a day. I found the 2 hour tour to be perfect. From Pisa we headed to Lucca where we booked it to Pizzicheria La Grotta for lunch--we didn't plan well today and we were STARVING. Had a lovely, long leisurely lunch and wandered Lucca a bit before hopping on the 4:30pm train back to Firenze. We definitely short-changed Lucca but we were exhausted. We don't quite have our walking legs back and I get tired so much easier after having Covid. We're having a chill night in the apartment--might swing into the grocery store to pick up some dinner but we're still full from lunch!

Hoping things are a little quieter tomorrow after the weekend but we'll see. We don't have much booked or planned outside of a dinner on Wednesday night so very open to suggestions/recommendations, especially restaurants!

Posted by
16 posts

Hello! We are here too-arrived Thursday night (eugene to LA to Zürich) and staying right near All’Antico-man, amazing food there. We wandered last two days and today was a little more structured with lunch, walk to Piazza de Michelangelo’s then the Uffizi. Busy-and loud crowds around us in the middle of the night last night—but we are having a blast.

Posted by
3875 posts

Thanks for the updates from both of you. I'm happy things are getting back to normal!

Posted by
9667 posts

Sounds like a great start to what is going to be a cool trip ! That is so fun that you'll be doing language class.

In bocca al lupo!

Posted by
274 posts

Love the update - thank you for posting! My kiddo and I will be there at the end of May, and while I'm relieved things are getting back to normal, I'm selfishly bummed that we missed on the opportunity to experience Florence without the tourist crowds! (Yes, I do recognize the irony, seeing that of course we are tourists as well.) Have an amazing trip and I look forward to reading more updates if you have time to post them during your stay!

Posted by
29 posts

I loved your report!

Please give as much detail as you can on your language school experience; I've considered doing a course at that same school next summer. (I'm late beginner/early intermediate stage, and would love any advice or feedback you can give.)

Your Pisa tour sounds wonderful. Please keep updating us! :)

Posted by
15597 posts

Hi Rachael,

I'm in Venice now, but leaving for Florence tomorrow afternoon and will be there until Friday morning. I'm staying near the train station. I have no definite plans. I love to meet RS folks, so if you and your husband would like to meet for a drink or something, please PM me.

I've been eating dinner at a neighborhood restaurant here in Venice, recommended to me by my B&B hosts. Tonight I told them (the waiters) that I was going to Florence tomorrow and one of them, who used to have a restaurnat here in Venice, told me to try Latini in Florence for authentic Florentine dishes.

Posted by
71 posts

My friend has a leather shop in the center of town - Infinity Firenze. There is a restaurant nearby - Trattoria Toto. We had a wonderful meal. Great food in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere.
Also, at Piazza Santo Spirito called Gustopanino. My favorite was the sformatino (layered potatoes with artichoke and a cheese sauce). The owner was very nice.
If you are looking for a Pasticceria - I love Il Dolce di Patrizio Cosi on Borgo degli Albizi near Via Giusseppe Verdi. It is a wonderful location with a lot of locals. It slows down in the afternoon and you can have a coffee and pastry.

Happy Travels!

Posted by
288 posts

Hello everyone! Back to check in.

Erin, I had my second day of class today and I've really been enjoying it! I have been taking classes online through the school since September, which has been great but it's only twice a week and being on the West Coast, the time change is hard (class is 9:30-11am PST). Luckily my job is flexible and my boss has been great about it, but I still need to miss more often than I would like due to meetings or, like now, when the US and Italy are not aligned with daylight savings time. When you register for the classes in person, they send you a placement test. I placed into level "elementare 3," and so far it has been some review of what I've already done but I feel like I need it so that's okay with me. There are about 12 people in my class and it's a good mix of the teacher going through things and having us do some exercises in small groups. There's just something different about learning in person! Feel free to DM me if you want to chat more about it!

Chani, I will definitely let you know! We have dinner plans tonight and tomorrow but that's as far as we've gotten.

Recommendations for those heading to Firenze: B-roof at Hotel Baglioni. 22E for a cocktail and pretty substantial small plates for aperitivo, and a GORGEOUS view of the city. We went there last night just for that aperitivo and then cooked a simple dinner back at our apartment, which also served as lunch today.

Can also recommend La Gelateria--yes, that's what it's called haha I know there are many gelaterias! But this one is not far from the Duomo and is the best we've had in the city by FAR. Last night we ventured to the Oltrarno for gelato at Cantina del Gelato which was also excellent. Gelateria della Passera was a distance third... I remember it being much better when we were here in 2017, maybe we hit it on an off day or chose the wrong flavor.

Posted by
29 posts

Thank you for giving details about your class! I would love your final thoughts/input when you're done. It's a little scary to sign up for something like this without a personal recommendation! :)

One question I have - what are the ages of the students? I was hoping for a range of ages, since I myself am definitely middle aged, ha!

Posted by
49 posts

Thank you for your report. I enjoyed reading it! My family is scheduled to head to Italy in 3 weeks. My husband and I are recovering from Covid and still exhausted walking through the house so your comment about being tired hit home! I'm a little concerned about that. I hope you are resting as much as possible! Take care of yourself.

Posted by
29 posts

Rachel (the original poster),

My daughter and I are getting serious about signing up for a language class next summer. Now that you're finished, can you share your overall experience with the school? Pros and cons, or things to be aware of?

I'm especially interested in the age mix of the students. My daughter will be 17 next summer and I am in my early/mid 50's. Ideally, the school we attend would have a nice mix of students in both general age ranges. I don't really want to attend a school where everyone is under 20, and my daughter really doesn't want to attend a school where everyone is over 50! ;)

Thanks for any advice or input you can give.