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Booked . . . and now hesitating

In the past I have so valued this Forum's opinions so I'm giving it another shot!

In mid-April, my husband and I are flying into and out of Milan for 11 nights to tour the Tuscany area. On friends' suggestions and research, we've made reservations (2 nights, 4 nights, 4 nights, 1 night in Milan prior to return) but now have hesitations. All but one of our bookings can be cancelled/rebooked at this early date. Below is our planned itinerary.

Nights 1 and 2 -- Arrive Milan and train to Vernazza to unwind/recoup.

Nights 3, 4, 5, 6 -- Train to LaSpezia, pick up rental car, and stay at an agriturismo outside of San Gimignano. During this time we plan to visit Northern Tuscany towns (Lucca, Greve, Montefioralla, Vagliagli, and others yet to be determined.)

Nights 7, 8, 9, 10 -- Drive to Murlo (1hr, 15min south of San G) where we will stay at another agriturismo with plans to visit Southern Tuscany.

Night 11 -- Return car to Siena and train to Milan for one night before flying home early a.m. next day.

My hesitations/questions are threefold:
1. Should we cancel our 4-night stay at the Murlo agriturismo -- which is an hr. 15 min. south from the San Gimignano agriturismo -- and, instead, stay 2 nights each in a couple of towns in South Tuscany to have the luxury of walking out our door for dinner, strolling, etc.?

2. Assuming the answer to Question 1 is yes, which town(s) in South Tuscany do you recommend?

3. Should we even go to crowded Vernazza and, instead, stay elsewhere along the northern coast to regroup/recoup for 2 nights, or immediately head south to Tuscany from Milan? Note we do not arrive Milan until 12:30 p.m.

Looking forward to your input!!!

Posted by
7737 posts

My 2 cents: I think Varenna on Lake Como would be a better place than Vernazza to recover from the jet lag, esp. in April. Gorgeous setting with the lake and the mountains. Very relaxed vibe. Ferry boat options to hop over to Bellagio or elsewhere on the lake.

As for staying in town over at an agriturismo, I'm a HUGE fan of staying someplace where you can indeed walk out the door and go explore on foot. (I'm also not a fan of driving in Italy because the winding roads mess up my back, but that's just me.)

As for where to stay, there's no shortage of wonderful choices. Siena comes to mind, but there are literally scores of other places you could stay for a couple of nights. (FWIW, in our experience, whenever we've done two nights in one location, we've wished it had been three. Two nights means only one unbroken day, after all.)

Do you have a couple of good guidebooks for Tuscany? That would help you figure out where you might most enjoy staying.

Happy travels and good luck.

Posted by
11362 posts

Vernazza should not be too bad in April, but if you are open to a non-coastal location, take a look at Pavia, only a bit over an hour by car from Milan. Although you can get there by train, it might be easier to just get your car in Milan and drive there, then on to San Gimignano.

We like staying in small towns for the very reason you mention: walking out the door to dinner no worries about drinking at dinner, etc. I would keep the car and move to Montalcino as a base for all 4 nights. Great location of driving day trips and fabulous dinner options.

Posted by
18 posts

Thanks for the input, all valuable info which has all but cleared my hesitancies! We will venture to Vernazza, then on to the agriturismo near San Gimignano for 4 nights to tour North Tuscany. Then, taking the advice to stay in a town for the other 4 nights, possibly Montalcino . . . but we welcome any other recommendations for towns in South Tuscany.
Again, thanks much.

Posted by
6215 posts

We stayed in Montepulciano- loved it.
Visited Montalcino for a few quick hours during day- not overly impressed.

We enjoyed Pienza, San Quirico, Bagno Vignoni and Montecchiello

Posted by
2192 posts

We did the same as Christine and had the same feeling, but we always find we always end up looking more fondly on the places we stayed overnight than the ones to which we daytripped. I'm sure you can't go wrong with either Montepulciano or Montalcino. We enjoyed the others she mentioned also, but as the towns get smaller, the restaurant choices and so forth become fewer, so for a four-night stay I'd pick a slightly larger town.

Posted by
9422 posts

Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano are all fabulous. We stayed in Montepulciano, enjoyed it. Next time i’d choose Montalcino. Every inch of Pienza is a Kodak moment, gorgeous, but it felt less “real”, more Disney-like, than the other two.

Laurel, what do you think about staying in Santa Margherita instead of Vernazza? My sister stayed there and loved it. Less touristy than Cinque Terre.

Posted by
6215 posts

we always find we always end up looking more fondly on the places we
stayed overnight than the ones to which we daytripped

Same here.
We happened upon a Pecorino Cheese festival in Pienza and had such a great time that day- we decided then we would stay in Pienza next trip. It's much flatter than Montepulciano- and we aren't getting any younger!

Posted by
11362 posts

I agree that one tends to like most the town one stays in. Montalcino had a quietness in the AM we liked, great sunset views, peaceful at night after day trippers had left, easy parking, lovely restaurants.

As to Santa Margherita Ligure, it is kind of a big town versus Vernazza. Camogli is a nice small alternative but location depends on what you want to do. Are you active hikers? Or would you prefer a scenic trip by ferry? Just walk around the villages and chill on a terrace?

Posted by
9422 posts

Laurel, hmm... much bigger would not appeal to me. Thanks.

Posted by
18 posts

What great alternatives! I'm researching and so appreciate the honest input!