Kwilde, I'm with you...after ONE guided trip in Italy, all the rest we've done are self guided. Not self supported (carrying our own stuff)
It's not hard to find your way around the Italian roads...if you've done it once. After a couple of our self guided trips ended, we kept our tandem together and rode out and backs to see different towns. We simply followed the road signage...
Self guided is the way to go for sure....as long as you are confident on the bike, and in traffic -- the countryside is great, getting into town can be a bit more challenging. We ride the roads in Denver all the time, and it's gotten a lot more congested, and a bit more un-bike friendly. But, we follow the traffic laws and surf the gutter when needed to stay safe.