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Big Dreams need big assist please

I'm planning an Italian getaway and today I've spent 4 happy hours researching--this site. I've many questions, ideas and do appreciate, advice, direction, tips, tricks. Husband and I are 60/70 and in good shape. We'll fly into Venice mid March 2020 from North Carolina. My son (and I am very excited about this part) who lives in Germany, will join us for most of the trip! Here's the plan, followed by questions...

Venice, Cinque Terre, Florence, Pompeii, Amalfi Coast, Rome. We plan on 21-25 days shorten a bit if advise says it'd be alright, hoping to do trains, air bnb.

  1. Suggestions for amount of time needed altogether and per city? We thought it'd be lovely to have 4/5 nights in Venice.

  2. Itinerary suggestions? Our son must return to Germany before April has been to Rome so we will do Rome last. We must see Pompeii and would love to add Herculaneum as well. Do we do both Cinque Terre and Amalfi? I hope to see Capri, too
    .

  3. I need advice on Sorrento, Salerno, Positano cities. Which one and why? I realize Positano is northernmost, I've heard the drive from Salerno to Amalfi is better than from Sorrento.

  4. Am I missing anything else? Suggestions for add-ins? (Florence countryside? Murano? tours?)

I should add we don't wish to drive and do not care for large tours, but will do if we must. We are of course, interested in typical tourist sites, but also love some quiet, down time. A glass of wine, music, local history and culture. Good food is great, but we are not foodies. Our son is very well traveled, we've been to Europe just twice before.

I've researched weather and settled upon lightweight, hooded waterproof coats for that time of year.

I very much appreciate your help.

Posted by
11037 posts

I would not try to do Pompeii and Herculaneum on the same day.

In March, it might be better to skip CT as you plan to do Amalfi coast area, and give yourself more time elsewhere. You may want to consider some nights in Siena in addition to Florence.

Posted by
11247 posts

I agree with Joe: concentrate on the Amalfi Coast in March/April.

Your instinct is good regarding 4 or 5 nights in Venice. Great way to start a trip. Yes, go to Murano along with Burano and Torcello. Rick Steves outlines a nice self-guided day trip in his book. We’ve found weather to be quite nice there in March and crowds light.

Trains are also the best way to go. Nothing in your itinerary requires a car. To get out into the Tuscan countryside for a day, look at Tours by Roberto. Lots of fun and no stress, a small group of 8 or 9 in Roberto’s van.

In addition to Airbnb look at VRBO.com and booking.com for your apartments. My rule is 3-nights-or-less, hotel; four-nights-or-more, apartment becomes worthwhile.

Posted by
15679 posts

And I'll agree with both Joe and Laurel about skipping the C.T. and putting that time elsewhere.

I need advice on Sorrento, Salerno, Positano cities. Which one and
why? I realize Positano is northernmost,

Salerno is the northernmost, geographically, of these 3, but not enough to matter. I'd personally choose Sorrento for March because there isn't much to do in Positano if the weather doesn't cooperate - which could happen in March - and you'd have cheap, easy rail service from there to Naples, Pompeii and Herculaneum. There's rail from Salerno as well but you'd also have ferry service to Capri from Sorrento unless the weather is REALLY bad. The ferries don't service Positano or Amalfi in winter and I don't believe they do the Salerno>Capri run until later in the season either. Anyway, I pretty sure you'll find more tourist services (restaurants and whatnot) open in Sorrento during the off season than in Positano.

Capri, as a day trip, should be done on a nice day. Like the rest of the coast, many businesses will still be closed for winter but there is some great hoofing around the island if that appeals?

Sure, take your desired 4-5 days in Venice. Although it could be a bit damp and chilly, I'll wager that its epic crowds will be lighter. I'd give Florence some quality time. You haven't talked much about your sightseeing interests but in addition to the many artistic treasures it has to offer, there are umpty easy day trips from there via public transit as well: Fiesole, Lucca, Pisa, Siena... It makes a great base for exploring some other locations, and with enough time to work with, you can chose your days according to weather. Still, we had 5 nights JUST in the city and never ran out of fascinating things to see!

Rome? We spent nearly a week on our 2nd trip there (my 3rd) and still feel as if we've only scratched the surface. Rome can take some time to get to know, and I often suspect that the people who didn't care for her tried to 'do' her in just a couple of days. Nope. They usually ended up stuck in the middle of the tourist hordes at the top tourist magnets, all day, every day. That gets real old, real fast. Even if March crowds are not as dense as during high season, you are wise to plan for some down time to just pull up a seat, order up a glass of the grape and watch the Roman world pass by! THAT is one very good way to learn to love the Eternal City. Florence too, for that matter. :O)

Posted by
162 posts

Not sure what your budget might be, but I would suggest saving money on hotels in the cities when you’ll be out and about all day, then damn the expense and splurge on a luxurious Amalfi Coast hotel and get a fantastic view you can sit and enjoy all day long.

Posted by
15043 posts

Fly to Venice and return home from Rome is the best flight path.

These are, in my opinion, the MINIMUM number of nights you should stay at each location. If you have more time to spare, add them to what you like.
Venice: 3 nights
Florence only: 3 nights
Florence plus day trips in Tuscany from Florence: 3 + 1 night for each day trip from Florence. So for example if you want to take 2 day trips (e.g. Siena, and Pisa+Lucca), then stay 5 nights in Florence.
Cinque Terre may not be at its best in March as it is still winter. Therefore I wouldn’t book any nights there. But if you are lucky and the weather is unseasonably warm and beautiful you could actually visit from Florence on a day trip. However start very early as the train journey is over 2 hours and in March Europe is still on standard time (e.g. gets dark earlier). So reserve an extra night in Florence. If the weather works out you can take a day trip to cinque Terre, if not, there are plenty of towns near Florence you can visit in lieu of Cinque Terre.
Naples Area (Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Amalfi, Capri, Sorrento): minimum 5 nights. I would choose Sorrento as a base for the entire stay in this area.
Rome: 4 nights.

Posted by
7 posts

My thanks to all who commented. I'm toying with shortening the cities we visit. Since it's mid-late March, I'll skip Cinque Terre and also Capri. I shall return!!

Flying into Venice... 3 or 4 nights. (Is it true there is a 'local' non-touristy water taxi which is much cheaper and stays out of the canals, but is just as lovely for sight seeing--a "traghetto?"

Down to Florence... 3 or 4 nights

Down to Pompeii/Herculaneum 2 nights

Up to Rome.. 4 nights

We are leaving Rome for last as my son may join us from school in Germany and he's seen Rome a few times. I do prefer to fly into Venice, out of Rome.

I don't want to be exhausted and sardine-d. We are hoping this adjustment helps. Please advise if I'm erring anywhere (and extra day or perhaps, less?) and also if I'm unaware of some fabulous, must-do side trip while in Florence. We are not foodies, want to enjoy the culture, history and see the sights w/ time and pleasure. Again, no car, 60 and 70, good shape, staying in air bnbs.

You all are very kind. Thank you.

Wendy

Posted by
32523 posts

Hello Wendy

This all looks very good.

Where in Germany is your boy? Will he meet you off the plane in Venice?

You have one question that confuses me...

Is it true there is a 'local' non-touristy water taxi which is much cheaper and stays out of the canals, but is just as lovely for sight seeing--a "traghetto?"

On the water in Venice there are basically 4 kinds of boat transportation for people - residents or tourists.

There are Gondolas. Those are what you see in typical romantic tourist photos, a narrow wood boat which has a man or woman standing at the back - often wearing a striped shirt - holding a long single oar which goes out behind. Seating from 2 to about 8 passengers. They can be hired for around €100 to take a group around some narrow back canals and perhaps onto the Grand Canal, sometimes singing - for a price - sometimes not.

There are water taxis. Beautiful small cruisers, beautiful wood, with a powerful engine. They also, like gondolas, charge by the boatload regardless of number of passengers, one to about 10. They work just like land taxis - go to where they are, hire them, tell them where you want to go and they take you there. Shorter trips can be less expensive but figure around €120 to and from the airport.

Vaporettos are the city bus, but on water. They have set routes and stops and schedules. They ply up and down the Grand Canal and go to lots of islands. Many visitors buy a pass for the duration of their stay, a 72 hour pass is much less expensive than 3 24 hour ones, or pay €7.50 per trip (I think it has gone up). These are the long and wide cream coloured boats which stop at yellow or orange coloured docks in the photos. Some are black and pointed and go for longer trips into the lagoon. All are covered by the pass.

Traghetto is a small gondola shaped black boat which is operated by one or two men or women. They go across the Grand Canal at just a very few places, just from one side to the other, like a moving bridge. Traditionally local Venetians stand in a row all facing forward but there are hard seats and most operators will ask all passengers to sit for the short - maybe 5 minutes - trip across the canal. Because they weave in and out of all the other canal traffic - everything from vaporettos to police launches to garbage boats to kayaks to taxis, delivery boats and laundry boats - everything moves by boat including all the food and everything - the journey across isn't always a straight line and not always smooth. I enjoy crossing by traghetto but they are becoming fewer and if you go to a traghetto dock you may find that they are not operating.

One interesting tidbit of knowledge - there are only the three bridges across the Grand Canal - Accademia down by the museum of the same name, near the southern end of the Grand Canal, Rialto in the middle and the new glass bridge between Piazalle Roma and the Ferrovia (train station) at the northern end. The easiest way to cross the Grand Canal is hopping a vaporetto as they alternate sides as they go up and down.

Posted by
7 posts

Thank you for taking the time to reply to me, Nigel. Great information!

To answer your questions: My son is a PhD candidate at University of Hohenheim in Stuttgart. Seeing him will be a trip highlight. He is well traveled (did 3 yrs with the Peace Corp in Senegal) and I'm delighted that he wants to join us in this shared interest.

I found the water taxi info I asked about on this link: https://www.businessinsider.com/the-biggest-tourist-traps-in-italy-and-where-to-go-instead-2015-6

I'm thinking Murano can be skipped. Thoughts?

Thank you again.

Wendy

Posted by
32523 posts

Anything can be skipped if it doesn't interest you.

Posted by
32523 posts

I have just looked at the article that you linked to.

I'm terribly sorry but I wouldn't use it as a guidebook.

I'll just quote one gaff from it

Want to see old towers? Visit San Gimignano, a mostly tourist-free haven in Tuscany that's known for its medieval architecture and perfectly preserved ancient tower houses — in fact, it's often referred to as "the city of beautiful towers" or even "medieval Manhattan."

I want to know when San Gimignano is tourist free. Or even mostly tourist free. The big carpark outside the wall is almost always full; most of the towers are gone just leaving a few, and there are plenty of places ready to sell things to tourists. It is in Rick's guidebook and most others.

Lovely place, I enjoyed my visit to the town very much, and if I am in the vicinity I'll probably drop in again. But it ain't empty of tourists. And I like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, and the Field of Miracles around it. Quite a lot. When I was there most recently - 4 or 5 years ago, I had an excellent espresso within sight of the Tower. I have a lot of espressos most days and was due for another. It cost me €0.70. In a china cup.

Nothing wrong with a traghetto, if you follow what I said. But you are on it for 5 or 10 minutes, and you go from A to B. Completely different experience than a gondola. Remember when I said everything is skippable if it doesn't appeal. I've lost count of the number of days I've spent in Venice over the years but I can tell you how many times I've ridden in a gondola. Zero. It doesn't appeal to me.

I find it strange that in the article the writer suggests going to Sicily instead of Pompeii. Strange bedfellows. Not comparable.

For some great insight into Venice and Italy the guidebooks, videos and tours produced by the gang who run this website are pretty good. And not having to fill a column.