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Best Tuscan Hill Towns?

Sienna seems the most heralded but when I look at the photos all I see is brown bricks and more brown bricks. Am I missing something? Is the place anywhere near as colorfull as Chinque Terra? Plus its obviously well known to everyone and I'd assume maybe the most busy of them all?

I know nothing about Tuscany, except the wines. I'd like a town that is not overrrun by tourist, if thats possible? I'd also like a town sorrounded by vineyard views and has some small 10-20 room hotels. We're not not a B&B people as we like our own bathroom and the privacy of a hotel vs. a residence.

I'd also like to visit a town or 2 that link up well with Chinque Terra and Florence for my route.

Posted by
2030 posts

Craig -- I think most all of Tuscany has been discovered by tourists. Get Rick's Florence/Tuscany guide book and read about all of the towns. Or watch his PBS show on the subject. I've stayed in Cortona and visited Orvieto, which I thought were both very nice. Not going to get away from the brown bricks though. These towns were built long ago and that's what they had. I personally love it and find them to be "colorful" neverthless.

Posted by
525 posts

Look for an agriturismo. Some are surrounded by vineyards and have wine tasting and tours. Google what you are looking for. Some B&B's do have private baths but make sure they serve a good breakfast in a dining room so you can communicate with other travelers.

Posted by
32353 posts

Craig, as someone else pointed out, most of Italy has been discovered by tourists (including the Cinque Terre), so most will be busy (more or less depending on time of year). Also as someone already pointed out, the bricks are part of the history of Italy so most towns are going to exhibit somewhat the same appearance.

Have you considered Lucca or San Gimignano in your travel plans? They're in the same general area as Florence and the Cinque Terre.

In defense of Siena, it's a wonderful town and makes a good "home base" for exploring other nearby attractions in bella Toscana.

You might find it worthwhile to broaden your travel area to include Umbria, as the scenery is very similar to Tuscany (I believe Orvieto is in Umbria).

Happy travels!

Posted by
769 posts

San Giminiagno (sp) is my favorite for small town - but Sienna is also great (a bit bigger and more options). But you may want to find an argoturismo place nearby these touristy places where you can stay local or retreat to after a day trip to the popular towns!

Posted by
6898 posts

As long as Umbria is mentined, Assisi is one of the best hill towns in Italy. And, it's mostly 12th and 13th century stone. Very beautiful.

Posted by
43 posts

Thanks everyone for your opinions. Very helpfull. Are these places likely to be somewhat less busy in mid sept after school is back?

Has anyone stayed in or near the premium Tuscany wine producer towns of Montalalcino or Montepulciano?

Posted by
43 posts

Question about my transportation plan? I will be coming from Avignon / Provance via train into Florence. So I'm thinking then I train from Florence to Chique Terra. Then I rent a car on my way out at Laspezia? Then I drive to the various hill towns of my choice, drop the car at say Orvieto and train over to Vencie. Will that work?

Posted by
9436 posts

Craig, your plan sounds very good. We hated Siena, exactly as you described plus dirty, clausterphobic, very unfriendly locals. Hated it. The drive RS recommends is wonderful which includes beautiful, charming towns like: Montepulciano, Montelcino, Pienza.

Posted by
135 posts

Volterra is great, and not "overtouristy"; Montalcino is wonderful, smaller than Volterra, and although the wine business is big, we didn't feel like it was "overtouristy" either- we took buses into both, didn't need a car... but on our next trip there, we'll rent one from Orvieto or Chianciano so we can do some short day trips, with home base being Montalcino.

Posted by
934 posts

We stayed a night in Voltara and liked it very much.We also stayed in Montalcino at a charming B&B for 2 nights and used the day to drive to Pienza and other small towns.It was a very pleasant day.

Posted by
6 posts

Craig,
I would love to recommend a memorable place to stay in Tuscany where you are actually in the vineyards among castels and medieval farm houses. You said you don't like B&Bs, but the one we stayed at was very private and we had our own bathroom in our large room. We had free access to come and go as we pleased and the property is large enough that it isn't like you are in someone's home. The Borgo Argenina B&B (www.borgoargenina.it) sits on such an amazing piece of property that the view is breathtaking. (Rick recommends it) It is not a town, per se, but you can walk along the gravel road and see other vineyards and castels. It is really being in the Tuscan Hills. It sits in the Gaiole region of Chianti and is technically part of Siena. It was an excellent home base to see Florence, Volterra, San Gimignano, Chianti, & Arezzo. PS. the small town of Monti has a great place to eat and a small deli.

Posted by
34 posts

I love Siena! Yes,it's lots of bricks,bricks that glow in the afternoon sun!I consider it a small city,rather than a hilltown.The duomo is exquisite-not a brown brick.Lots of local bus,train options around central Tuscany;I got a car last time & stayed in Vagliagli,a tiny town between Siena & Castellina.
Perhaps you should review your itinerary-train from Provence to Cinque Terre via Genoa,then Lucca&Pisa.On to Florence.Get a car,drive into Tuscany.The Chiantigiana is a beautiful road from Florence thru' Chianti vineyards/olive orchards.
Favorite central Tuscan hilltowns are Montereggioni,Radda in Chianti,San Sano,Volterra.I always read RS first,then explore with a map.There are great towns everywhere,close your eyes & point at the map!Near Tuscan border are Umbria's Orvieto-another knockout duomo & Civita,almost a ghost town that RS loves too.Some day I will stay in Civita's only lodging,before it all crumbles to dust...

Posted by
14 posts

I recently spent my birthday in San Gimignano and it is very picturesque and not too big and "touristy".
Montalcino is also beautiful. Oct. is a perfect time for the change of leaves and not too many people. Tuscano is very romantico!!

Posted by
831 posts

craig,
I have stayed near Montalcino and found the Brunello fantastic. If you want info on this area, I have a very large file, feel free to e-mail. [email protected]

Posted by
29 posts

I love Cortona and Orvieto. Wonderful to wander the streets, shop, stop for coffee, have a peaceful day. The surrounding countryside is lovely. I detest Siena and you couldn't pay me to return to it. Loud, crowded, brown, dirty. It is fun to rent bikes in Lucca and ride the ramparts -- the top of the wall. But, the town itself isn't much to see. Assisi is another unique town that I would visit again.

Posted by
12313 posts

Here's the rule. If it's in a guidebook, it will be touristy.

Rick's guidebooks are the worst for this. He only includes the "best" places in his guidebooks which often equates to most tourists. To be fair, most of the time they have the most visitors for a reason.

Some guidebooks do an exhaustive review of every small town in the area. You may find some relatively hidden gems there.

Another option is to visit a small winery. Speak to the owners. Be engaging, friendly and interested. Buy a couple of bottles of the wine they are most proud of. Tell them the kind of hill town you would like to visit and ask for their favorites.

Lucca was only okay, the wall/park is nice but seems to be from late 18th or 19th century. Even though it's touristy, we loved medieval San Gimignano.

Posted by
12313 posts

I think your travel plans are just right. You don't want a car in Florence. You can train to CT as easily as drive. After CT is when you will want the car, it will open up many towns that are off the beaten path.

We liked Orvieto also. We picked it because it was convenient to head to Rome the following day and found it was one of our favorite hill towns. It sits on cliffs rather than a hill, has a major Cathedral and has underground tunnels dating back to the Etruscans.

Posted by
934 posts

Dont forget that for everyperson who hates Siena you will find a dozen that love it.Also there are no best hill towns.Everyone has their favorites.I think the best way is to just drive and stop at any small village and take a walk.Some are nothing but some are untouristed gems.

Posted by
139 posts

Check out Tuscanbreaks.com. We are staying here for 6 nights in mid April. It looks great. I can report back once I return.

Posted by
13 posts

Craig,

I love Siena; better than Florence by far, in my opinion. The predominant colors are the terracotta brick and the white stone. However, there are also later buildings in yellow, red... lots of colors. The cathedral is a riot of color. And the brick allows the residents themselves to be the color... to see what I mean:

http://lodgephoto.com/galleries/italy-tuscany/siena/flagthrowing/pages/IT-B-0104.html

http://lodgephoto.com/galleries/italy-tuscany/siena/flagthrowing/pages/IT-D-0202.html

http://lodgephoto.com/galleries/italy-tuscany/siena/flagthrowing/pages/IT-B-0105.html

Mathew

Posted by
5 posts

I would check out staying in Assisi. Also San Gimignano... A MUST SEE!!!!

Posted by
23 posts

By all means, go to Volterra. It was so beautiful and not a lot of tourists like Orvieto and others. Before you go read the Twilight series books and you will ove Volterra even more. Rick Steves says Volterra is his favorite small Tuscan town! It was ours

Posted by
43 posts

Janet, does Voltaire have enough restaurants for a 3 night stay? Where would I get my car rental if I stayed there coming from Cinque Terra?