Bergamo, Italy--have you been there?

Yes! I think Bergamo is one of Italy's best kept secrets. When I moved up here from Rome 9 years ago no one had ever mentioned how beautiful it is. The town is divided into two parts, the citta' bassa and the citta' alta. Both are lovely, but the citta' bassa is a bit newer, while the citta' alta is medieval and looks like something out of a fairy tale. You can take the funiculum up or walk, and there are lovely churches, shops, restaurants, and the view of the two valleys behind Bergamo with the Alps behind them are wonderful. The best known hotel up in Citta' Alta is L'agnello d'oro, but I've never stayed there so I can't tell you either way. There is nothing I like more than a passeggiata on a Sunday afternoon in Bergamo.......

Thank you, Claire. It really sounds like a place we would enjoy. I appreciate the info.

Last summer I spent six days there at a conference and enjoyed it immensely. The walled old city is a treat, with winding mazes that eventually all lead to someplace to eat. There are a number of good 3 course menus to choose from--Vineria Cozzi was my favorite, but Agnello d'Oro, Da Franco, Il Sole and Da Mimmo are all good choices. There's a shop that sells wine and meat and cheese that has a room in the back where you can get wines by the glass to taste and plates of local cold cuts and cheese--don't miss the formai de mut and branzi cheeses and the local red valcalepio wine--I can't remember the name but it puts out a sign board on the main drag, the Via Gombito, to point the way to the tasting room. Al Donizetti is a must-taste stop, where you can eat a plate of thinly sliced salumi with a glass of wine watching the world stroll by as you sit under a pergola canopy. Local specialities are a filled cheese ravioli called casoncelli that is served with butter and sage leaves, and a sweet called polenta e olei, a super-sweet marzipanish confection made to look like polenta with little birds baked into it. Buy the smallest one you see and you will still throw half of it away as it is too sweet by half. Polenta is also big here, so you will not be able to avoid it even if you wanted to.

Sites worth seeing are the stunning basilica Santa Maria Maggiore, the over-the-top Colleoni Chapel, the Accademia Carrara if it is open--it was closed when I was there, but a selection of its paintings were on display in a temporary space--and the village of San Vigilio at the top of a hil reached by yet another funicular.

Wow, JER! Thanks for all the incredible, useful information! We found a B&B there for 2 nights, and are looking forward to visiting the area. We will definitely try your suggestions.

I would also recommend visiting Bergamo if you get the chance. I certainly wouldn't define Bergamo as 'quaint', as you suggest you're looking for, but Citta Alta certainly has some sights that are worth seeing.

Thanks for your input, Stuart. Our B&B is in Citta Alta and we're anxious to visit.