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Base towns for Puglia visit.

We are going to spend about 10 days in Puglia starting early October and wondering what would be best 2 or maximum 3 towns to base ourselves. We will have a car. I was thinking maybe something in or near Vieste, then in or near Bari, and finally in or near Lecce. We dont want to spend too much time driving each day. We want to spend more time enjoying the towns we will be visiting. So we welcome any suggestions from people. Also if you have any favorite accommodations in those towns, please let me know. Molto grazie!

Posted by
4427 posts

I have been to Puglia twice but never to the Gargano peninsula--surprising, since I prioritize nature, but I was concerned that we would be too isolated in case of inclement weather. I just mention in case you find that important and wish to check typical weather stats. The area will be very quiet in October, but if you get great weather, all the more for you to enjoy to yourselves! As an alternative, I would consider Matera or a combo of the places below.
Let us know the max amount you prefer to drive upon arrival to help with planning the order. For your "near Bari" portion, I would either choose one of the coast towns of Monopoli or Polignano, or one of the Itria valley towns--lots of them are clustered together, with pretty farmland in between. Cisternino has several restaurants and it's probably my favorite. If you need to be close to the airport upon arrival or for departure, Monopoli is about a 45 minute drive to the airport.
For your Salento portion, I agree with Lecce. Parking will be more of a hassle, but in October it will be the liveliest, and it is a great location for exploring both coasts during the day. Two years in a row we stayed in the wonderful Roof Barocco Suites.

Posted by
59 posts

Great suggestions. I was thinking of perhaps bypassing the Gargano peninsula, and starting further down south. We will be driving from points further north. During our days I would prefer not to drive much more than 1 hour from base to visit various towns. Anything longer than that I fear has us wasting time driving and not "seeing". Fortunately we do not need to base ourselves near any airports as we will be slowly returning (by car) to Venice - where we start.
Thanks.

Posted by
4427 posts

Oh gotcha--I recall the screen name now. I highly recommend a stay in Matera in neighboring Basilicata--some day trip it, but it is magical at night.

Posted by
1391 posts

I would skip the Gargano. It was interesting but not as interesting as the rest of Puglia.

North:
We loved staying in Trani for several nights. Giovinazzo, a little farther south on the coast, looked like a really nice small town but we haven't stayed there yet. I think it would be kind of a pain to drive in and out of Bari for day trips, but do visit it.

Central:
Our favorite town for a base was Ostuni --- we were there for a week in the old town and could have stayed longer. We were in an apartment just inside the old walls, so it wasn't a big deal to have to park outside the walls, plus in the newer part of town there were several good restaurants and pizza places and shops. Great food in the old town.

We've also stayed in a trullo in a terrific agriturismo called Masseria Aprile outside of Locorotondo, and in an airbnb trullo in the countryside outside of Cisternino (there are lots). From Ostuni, Locorotono, and Cisternino there are plenty of other towns within an hour's drive.

South:
It's hard to beat Lecce. Be sure to stay inside the old town.

We stayed in Matera for 3 nights and would have preferred 4 or 5. It's not a base, though. If I had to choose between Trani and Matera, I'd say Matera because it is unique --- you can daytrip to Trani and towns like it while in Puglia.

Posted by
59 posts

Nancy - you are the second person who suggested skipping the Gargano Peninsula (when time is limited). I was thinking of it because we will be driving from Sulmona and didn't want to drive too long until the next stop. Trani is still 3 1/2 hours. Sounds like you are suggesting Trani area for the north. Ostuni for the central and and Lecce for the south. Is that right? Any suggestions for an overnight between Sulmona and Trani/Bari area if not Vieste?
Thanks

Posted by
1391 posts

Oh, I SOOOOOOO do!

When we were in northern Puglia, we made a special trip into Molise just to see the Saepinum Archaeological Area. It's lovely Roman ruins in the middle of farmer sheds and sheep pastures and we literally had the whole place to ourselves except for a friendly dog and some goats. Look at Google Images of it and see what you think.

It's not a huge site (i.e. not like Ostia Antica or Pompeii) so you could easily walk through it in the morning and be on your way. Hour and 39 minutes from Sulmona. Or even go there the evening before you stay the night. Easy to get to --- it's right off a major road. Kind of a secret place that's right out in the open!

We stayed one night at a very nice, friendly, 18th century stone house turned into a hotel in a tiny town in the hills just a little north of the ruins. Casale Kolidur in Guardiaregia --- I think it was on Booking.com. Good restaurant for dinner, too.

I would be so pleased and excited for someone else to visit these ruins! I never get to recommend them because they are so far from where people usually go. But I hope perfect for you!

Posted by
1391 posts

Trani is 2 1/2 hours from Guardiaregia. You could stop to have lunch at Antichi Sapori in Montegrosso --- one of the most memorable lunches we've had in Italy, and that is saying something. The dishes of antipasti just kept coming and coming, each different, each the kind of thing you're not really sure what it is but it's delicious. One that we asked about turned out to be a local cheese with sweet CELERY marmalade. Not a fancy place at all and across the street is their kitchen garden. Can't get more farm-to-table than that!

Yes, Trani, Ostuni, Lecce for bases. All very different from each other.

We stayed in the Gargano for several days and drove all around it in November three years ago. People go there for the beaches and coastal scenery in summer and to be in a large old forest and to see some neat fishing shacks with nets. The fishing shacks were actually why we went! There's a pilgrimage site, too. Vieste is an interesting and pretty town. But you can't often see the famous beautiful coast from the coast road. I hate saying any place is not "worth" a visit, and it WAS worth it to us, but we came away thinking that since we are not beach people (and we travel in the winter anyway) and since we have lots of forests in Minnesota, the Gargano was just not as exciting as it would be to other people. Kind of thought the same thing about all the deserted beach towns as we drove all the way around the southern tip of Puglia (from Lecce as a base), which people also say is very beautiful.

Posted by
59 posts

Thank you Nancy. Lots of food for thought. We are not really big on archaeological or ancient ruins sites, so will have to think about this. So still open to other possibilities for that first place to stay in Puglia. Val Adelphia – we will be entering Puglia from Sulmona but initiating the trip from Venice.
Thanks

Posted by
4427 posts

Thanks--I had missed that in the discussion. Trani is the most commonly mentioned northern Puglian town/village, and though further south, without the winding roads of the Gargano.
So, it's a tossup on driving versus unpacking! Perhaps you should make a list of everywhere you want to see in Puglia before developing the base concept further.