Please sign in to post.

Base for Exploring Herculaneum, Pompeii, Ischia/Procida, and Paestum

Hello, fellow travelers.

Seeking advice on a convenient home base for exploring Herculaneum, Pompeii, Ischia and Procida, and Paestum. I will be relying on public transportation for this trip.

I have 4.5 days to explore the first week of October 2018. My proposed itinerary is:

  • Day 0 - Late arrival in Naples
  • Day 1: Herculaneum and Pompeii
  • Day 2: Ischia and Procida
  • Day 3: Sorrento
  • Day 4: Paestum
  • Day 5: Explore Naples in the morning; train to Rome after late lunch/tea.

Based on my Google Maps searches, it looks like Naples (near the port) is the most convenient as it has easy access to ferry/hydrofoil services as well as a tram that will take me directly to Napoli Centrale. Sorrento, though charming, seems inconvenient. However, Ischia looks like such a serene, charming spot that I'm tempted to book a hotel on the island, and there seems to be a hydrofoil service to Sorrento.

Thoughts? Recommended changes/tweaks to my proposed itinerary?

Posted by
5320 posts

Maybe add Paestum to your Naples time? It is not easy to get to from Sorrento at all. Of course you could then eliminate Sorrento and just stay in Naples and Ischia.

Posted by
1113 posts

We based out of Sorrento when we did this Trip. Herculaneum and Pompeii in one day will be A LOT. Maybe just do one as we found them to be very similar - we actually liked Herculaneum better - smaller, less crowds. Use the RS Italy book to go thru it - he does a great job - don't miss the skeletons at the end - they are down some stairs - we saw lots of people miss them. We took the train from Sorrento - RS gives great instruction on how to do this. Had some of the best pizza in our 3 weeks in Italy after Herculaneum on the way back to the train - it will be on your LEFT -Pizzeria Luna Caprese Sas Di Luna Michelina

Posted by
45 posts

@valadelphia - Thanks for the suggestion. Yes, Paestum for the Naples leg. I might even just take the hydrofoil across to Sorrento and make a day of it.

Posted by
45 posts

@chinalake67 - Thanks! I will definitely check out Pizzeria Luna. I think we want to see both Pompeii and Herculaneum but it sounds like we should break it up into two days. Is feasible to do a morning visit to Pompeii then on to Sorrento for lunch and afternoon?

Posted by
11851 posts

I think you can do Pompeii and Ercolano the same day, if you have the energy. After all, it won't be too hot in October.

Is feasible to do a morning visit to Pompeii then on to Sorrento for lunch and afternoon?

Yes, this is very possible as well.

Procida and Ischia can only be done the same day if you stay on one or the other.

Personally, I think you have a little too much for the time available. We were underwhelmed by Paestum, but perhaps that is because we saw Greek ruins elsewhere first. It is a long way to go for a day trip. If you drop Paestum the rest is easier and a more relaxed pace.

Posted by
3309 posts

Make certain that you have enough time in Naples to visit the Archaeological Museum that contains the statues and artifacts found in the ruins of Pompeii and Ercolano. To give you enough time in Naples, leave for Paestum early in the day as the ruins and museum there can be adequately visited in half a day.

Posted by
8077 posts

I think it is a poor idea to stay on an island to visit distant land monuments. But that is an opinion. In addition to the excellent frequency of ferries, you might want to check the sailing times - for example, Capri is farther from Naples than it is from Sorrento. Others have noted that ferries can be cancelled, regularly for stormy water conditions.

Sorrento is probably the more central location than Naples, and it has quite a lot of ferries. It is a task to inventory all the ferry companies using just the internet. (And at the marina in Sorrento, no window for one ferry will tell you that the schedule of another company around the corner might better suit your schedule.) I suggest that you reckon with just how far, and how many modes of transport are necessary to get to Paestum. (Taking four public transit vehicles could add 2 hours of just standing around to the day. That's taking 1/2-hourly service as producing 15 minutes of latency on average-worse things happen in public transit, however-like lines of over 50 people for the next bus. Maybe it's not so bad in October.) Even with five nights in Sorrento, we had to cross off Paestum. We also decided to skip the Blue Grotto while in Capri for the day (on two different trips ... ... )

As Rick points out in his books, Herculaneum is not better because it's smaller. It's smaller because less of the new city of Ercolano has been torn down to EXCAVATE the ancient city. You have no idea what you might be missing, and what might be never excavated. Rick observes that excavated worship shrines in Pompeii make it certain that Pompeii had a Synagogue - but it has not been found. Herculaneum is important for specific buildings (some of which may be closed during your visit, like at all Italian monuments ... ... ) and for the different nature of the volcanic destruction. Herculaneum is also a long walk downhill from the Circumvesuviana station. Pompeii is "right there." Beware of visiting Pompeii from the Salerno train line - the station is not anything like adjacent to the excavated ancient site.

We enjoyed Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Oplontis, all nice in their own, and very different ways. But that is way too many ancient sites for the average tourist and his/her available time. (There is currently a touring museum show on the Villas of Oplontis, in United States venues.) Other factors, like weather, heat, and dining (there is no food inside Herculaneum, and you cannot exit and re-enter) are also important. I recommend Oplontis for those with modest but important mobility limitations.

Edit: Sorrento was the best base for OUR particular sightseeing needs. We slept one night in Naples, partly because of air arrival time. But we could have spent more time there, and I would have liked to see the palace in Caserta. (I think it's a choice between Paestum and Caserta, which depends on art history and European history interests of the travelers. But we got to neither.)

Edit 2: It's more than 4 public transit vehicles for Paestum from Capri: Although the Circumvesuviana station (i.e. bus to Amalfi, where you change for the bus to Salerno) is technically walkable from the Sorrento ferry marina, it's not practical to walk on your time schedule, or the need for energy for a long day to Paestum. I don't know how far it is from the Salerno bus stop to the train station. It becomes a nutty scheme. I have heard RUMORS of a ferry from Salerno to Capri, but in October? Not so likely.

Posted by
7054 posts

I think it is a poor idea to stay on an island to visit distant land
monuments.

I totally agree with this comment, and especially since you're going off-peak and there's no way to know what the ferry schedules will be like. Even if the ferry schedules were known to be frequent, I still wouldn't want to spend time just getting back and forth to the mainland which would cut into your overall sightseeing time. Better to stay closer to the train line where you can more easily access Herculaneum and Pompeii, etc. You definitely don't have enough time in Naples, which is a shame. I would cut out either the islands, Paestum, Sorrento (whichever based on your priorities and desire to see) and make some more room for Naples as there is a lot to see there and you can't do it in one morning before heading off to Rome. Personally, I would make Naples the base for all your overnight stays, mainly for convenience sake of reaching all the other places you want to see. If you need a second base because you're trying to rope Paestum in, then Salerno would also make a good second base.

Posted by
1074 posts

I think your itinerary is pretty solid overall. Naples is really best suited to visit all of the sites you list. Paestum particularly would be complicated from other locations. I loved my brief time in Naples, and would suggest leaving a day to explore further. I would skip Sorrento. There really is nothing to see in Sorrento, it’s main attraction is just being a comfortable base for the area. If you’re not sleeping there, it’s not worth your time. Naples is pretty hectic, and you’re doing some heavy sightseeing, so a bit of a splurge on a nice hotel would be wise.

You can totally do Pompeii and Herculaneum in a day. Get to Pompeii as early as possible to avoid the heat and crowds, have lunch and do Herculaneum on the way back. Not sure about October, but Herculaneum can be open fairly late in the day. They are both very much worth seeing.