Back to Puglia! Favorite lodging or activity to suggest?

Back to your happy place…that’s wonderful, Jean! Following your heart….

Jean, hello from Hotel Ala! Go where your heart is happiest (although we loved Greece)!

Tammy, I love thinking you’re at Hotel Ala! I have stayed there three times - handy location. Enjoy Venice!

Did your past stops include Matera? It is only somewhat out of the way for the Caserta-Bari portion. Altamura looks appealing to me. But Trani may be just the ticket--I have seen many favorable remarks about it. I stayed in Giovonazzo and hoped to see the salt pans at Margherita di Savoia but didn't make it.
Even though you are staying in neighboring Polignano, I would keep Monopoli under consideration. I also stayed in Cisternino and liked it very much. On two occasions, I missed both Ostuni and Otranto, so I need to return, too!

Alberobello and Locorotondo are so close to each other that you can visit both from the same location, no need to change hotel. I had a car, but I'm sure there are buses connecting the two.

I like Otranto. Since I travel to Italy in summer (June/July), and I have a car, a pool and car/park access is a must for me, so I stayed here. It was a 15-20 min walk to the old fortified city center

Trani would be at the top of my list. We loved it. Otranto didn't grab me, but I know others really like it. We had to skip Ostuni and I was sorry, but that's another place that has variable reviews on the forum. I haven't been to Monopoli. Happy planning!

We absolutely loved Masseria Cervarolo in Ostuni!

Jean,

Best wishes for your return to Puglia next spring. Festival of St. Nicola in Bari sounds super.

Between Caserta and Bari, I strongly encourage you to consider spending some time in Matera in Basilicata. I don’t know how much time is right, just that the 3-1/2 hours we spent for lunch and walking to the Sassi and passing an hour in San Nicola dei Greci in Matera was not enough. More than two days would probably be more than you need.

If you have 3 days between Caserta and Bari, maybe there’s enough time to include the Cilento or Paestum on your way to Matera and then on to Bari, but I would think that would require renting a car so you would drive from Caserta to Bari via one or omthe other such place and then Matera.

One alternative thought is to spend your three day segment in Paestum and the Cilento. Then your five day segment in Monopoli, Ostuni and Matera. But this leaves out Trani and that may be my mistake.

As for Trani, I have no idea. but Polignano a Mare, Monopoli and Ostuni are all near one another. Not sure that Monopoli and Ostuni require that much time; I think a day each may be enough. Matera is certainly accessible by bus from Bari, Alberobello and presumably other towns in that area.

I will also mention that the best pizza we had in Italy last spring was in Ostuni, not Naples.

Last spring, you read our TR shorty before your own trip. That may be worth a look, again, fwiw. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/southern-italy-30-days-three-ways-to-travel

I am sure you’ll love Bari, again. I really wish we had spent more than 24 hours, there. We saw a lot, but missed a lot I am sure, especially in terms of musical offerings and 18th and 19th century sights.

Buon Viagge.

Jean, I'll be following your responses because we are constructing a similar trip for Late January thru February. I can commiserate on learning a language, though its Italian that I'm struggling with, I don't think I could even attempt Greek.

Happy you are making a return trip, Jean!
I’m just back from there.
We spent three nights in Matera and I would have liked one more.
It was our favourite town in the “heel” area.
Lots to see, very lively and of course with a fascinating history.
We stayed up in the more modern area…I would not have been happy hauling even just my carryon bag up and down those alleys in the Sassi area in the heat we experienced while there.
We saw some people struggling mightily with enormous bags trying to get uphill.
We did our trip all by public transport, no car, and stayed within walking distance of Matera Centrale which was central for everything.
We went to Ostuni from Lecce as a day trip by train , and were really taken with the town.
Very hilly, so lots of uphill walking, but very pretty.
We didn’t get round the whole town in just the one day, so a couple of nights there might be better.
There is a bus up and down from the train station to the town itself which is up on the hill.
Wasn’t thrilled with Gallipoli, also as a day trip.
It seemed very touristy and the shops seemed to mainly have cheap things for a beach visit…towels, rubber sandals, beach toys etc.

Dear Jean — I continue to feel inspired and encouraged by your descriptions of how you travel. It is close to the opposite of the way I travel, but you made me realize that sometimes, in order to do what I want to do and see what I want to see, your way not only grudgingly works but can be enjoyable.

Whenever planning a return trip to Sicily for next spring is frustrating me (too much to see, too little time, driving distances too long, inconvenient dates of operas and Easter festivals), I remember “The Jean Way” and I embrace some one-night hotel stays or some backtracking route that makes no sense logistically except that it means I can be in a certain place at a certain time. And you do it without a car!

OK, back to your Puglia trip. Do you take longer taxi rides as part of your public transportation? If so, when you are in Caserta, it’s a half hour drive to cliff-hanging Sant'Agata de' Goti — I don’t see any buses. I had three nights there, but it is a tiny town and could be walked all over in a few hours. Be sure to walk out onto the bridge to get views of the old town itself.

Yes, do go to Matera! I know there is public transport from Bari. I loved staying in a cave in the B&B La Corte dei Pastori (https://lacortedeipastori.com/), but maybe someone else can recommend a place to stay in the sassi that is easier to get to by bus. There are towns in Puglia that are quite similar to each other, but there is nowhere like Matera. Unique the way Venice is, except all rocky and cave-y.

I would return to Ostuni for another week just to eat, but, again, the old center is small and could be seen on a day trip. If I had to pick one place to eat, I would pick Osteria Monacelle if it’s still the same literal hole-in-the-wall it was six years ago.

Otranto cathedral’s mosaic floor is the kind of thing I will go to see and do nothing else in a town. Like the floor of Siena’s cathedral, it can be more or less covered up when you visit, so it’s worth checking.

I hope you can stay a few nights in Lecce and that the front of the Basilica di Santa Croce is finally visible again (it wasn’t six years ago)! Romanesque church facades are what I “collect” all over Italy, but the Baroque sculptures in Lecce are a close second.

Have a wonderful trip!

@Cathy, it must be a place that makes my heart happy! When I told one of my daughters about my change of plans to switch to Italy instead of Greece, she said, “Mom, I haven’t heard that spark in your voice since Dad died.” : )

To those who mentioned Matera, your suggestions for Matera are growing on me! It didn’t seem like a place that would appeal to me initially, but I think I can work out a route to go there. I went ahead and booked a refundable night at the Palazzo Degli Abati in one of their beautiful cave rooms…to consider it while I’m planning this winter. The view from their terrace looks amazing.

Valadelphia, you also mentioned Giovonazzo. I looked through that special Puglia book my daughter bought me, and that is one of the towns I added as a 1-night stop. I mayend up dropping it and just stay two night at Trani, instead, but I do love those individual stays to experience the city in the evening - something a day-trip can’t match.

Cisternino was also in that book. You make it sound worth considering! I could give up my return to Locorotondo and stay there, instead. The trick is that I would be arriving on a Sunday. After my experience last year (that turned out fine in the end), I am hesitant to tempt my luck on public transportation or taxi availability on Sundays.

Roberto, thank you for the recommendation for a hotel in Otranto. I’m hoping I can make Otranto work for this next trip!

Janet, knowing I tend to move often, how many nights do you think I need for Trani? It was on my itinerary last May, and I had to remove it to make everything else work. I want to stay there this time before going to the San Nicola festival in Bari.

@JuliaFF, ooh, that one looks fantastic! Unfortunately, I would need a car to be able to stay there.

”We absolutely loved Masseria Cervarolo in Ostuni!”

Thank you, Fred, for your details and also for giving me the link to your trip report! I did spend a day at Paestum when I took our oldest adult daughter to Italy, and we were staying at Salerno for a few days before moving onto our nights at Amalfi. Yes, Paestum is definitely worth seeing!

Right now, Monopoli is on the lower list of priorities. I tentatively will be staying at Trani, possibly Giovinazzo, Polignano a Mare, and possibly Otranto. Monopoli could be a quick day-trip since I will be at Polignano a Mare two nights, and I have been at PoM last May.

Fred, do you remember where you had the best pizza in Ostuni? I am willing to see how it compares with my two favorites - the two pizzas I ate in Caserta and Martina Franca. Sadly, Martina Franca isn’t on this next itinerary, or is it?? ; )

Bari surprised me. I had some different expectations and ended up enjoying it both for the Bari Vecchio but also for the modern city.

@Jules m, how exciting! I will be looking for your Puglia trip report when you return! Depending on the timing of your trip, you might want to come to this: CWSocial is having an All-Italy Zoom travel group meeting presentation the first part of January. I will be sharing about the Puglia portion of my May trip.

@S J, are you planning to write a trip report? I would love to read more about your time in Matera & Ostuni. Also, could you share details of which public transportation you took specifically for going to/from Matera?

I really appreciate your comments about Gallipolli! I had written it down on my list of cities to check out with research. Your comments sound like the opposite type of place I like to explore and enjoy staying at during a trip!

Nancys8, your beginning paragraphs made me smile! You have a name for my quirky behavior - LOL! I will be doing it again for this next Puglia trip. I have three things driving dates or day-of-the-week:

• Attend a Celebration Italia Christian church service again in Caserta
• Attend the San Nicola festival in Bari
• Reserved the only remaining 2-day reservation available for that amazing balcony room in Polignano a Mare again (moves it to the last weekend of this trip)

Thank you for the restaurant recommendation in Ostuni! It looks like a place I would like.

The front of the Basilica di Santa Croce in Lecce was visible when I was there in May. I’m glad I took a city tour in Lecce because the guide gave us a lot of information about the features. I found it difficult to capture the whole front in a decent photo. I settled for several angled and sections of details, instead. There just wasn’t a great spot to stand far enough back when I was there.

I liked Lecce but thought I would just return to the short list of favorites on this next trip to be able to see others. But, I may need a night in Lecce to make Otranto’s train/bus connection feasible. It’s nice that I’m already familiar with it, so going back for just a 1-day stop would still be very easy & familiar.

We were so fortunate that both times we stayed at Siena, the beautifully designed floor was uncovered. Thanks for the warning to check for Otranto’s floor since that is why I would be going there.

Hi Jean, I recently returned from a 7 day trip to Puglia based in Ostuni. We enjoyed eating at Al Solito Posto on Via Cesare Braico, Ostuni. I participated in a small group tour ( only 10 people) in Puglia. I agree with you that the area is lovely.

Hi Jean,
I don’t write trip reports here as I write an ongoing blog on Facebook to just my friends while I’m away on trips.
I don’t write about what I saw or ate…well, maybe a bit…but I write about quirky people we meet, or weird and funny adventures we have, or what I observe on the streets.
When I am less busy I will try and PM you some excerpts if you are interested.
I’ll also tell you about the transport we took.

Your next trip report must be titled “A Spark in Her /My Voice”!

Jean —
We had a great trip to Puglia in October, 10 years ago. Trani was a highlight. I know you travel fast but this would be a good place to savor for a couple of days. It’s a pretty little town with a busy harbor, some historic churches, great restaurants and a vibrant passegiata each night.

We stayed at Albergo Lucy, where friendly Luca took us (via elevator) to a spacious high ceilinged room on the top floor with a balcony overlooking a little piazza, a church, a park, and the sea beyond. Beautiful.

We asked Luca about bus schedules to visit nearby Castel del Monte & he offered to drive us, for a very reasonable fee. Don’t know if he normally did this or he was bored or sympathetic? Anyway, we were grateful. It’s a very impressive 13th century castle (empty inside). Then he drove us to Ruvo di Puglia, to the Cathedral of Ruvo — an important example of Romanesque architecture — built around 12th century.

Our final stop was a prehistoric cemetery, Dolmen La Chianca, the best preserved Bronze Age monument in Italy. It’s a burial chamber about six feet tall, with huge slabs of rock forming the walls & roof. Reminiscent of Stonehenge.

It was a great afternoon & some interesting sights. Luca could probably recommend a driver if he can’t take you.

From Trani we also took a bus to another pretty little town of Margherita di Savioia to see the salt plains, which produce 5 million tons of salt a year. You have to take a guided tour, so make sure your bus arrival & salt tour schedule are coordinated.

We had a fabulous dinner at Osteria Ferro e Fuaco in downtown Trani. Not sure if they’re still open but worth asking about.

After leaving Trani we visited Matera. Very worthwhile. You’d probably want to take a walking tour here.

We then rented a car for a week & stayed in a lovely masseria & visited the little towns of the Valle d’Itria. We did not see Ostuni so can’t comment on that.

We returned the car & took a train to Lecce & did day trips from there by train, including Otranto & Gallipoli. Travel is very subjective but I wouldn’t go all the way to Lecce in order to see Otranto. But we liked Gallipoli — it has a very picturesque harbor where fishermen were selling their morning’s catch & mending nets for tomorrow. We had a delicious fresh-caught lunch here.

Have fun planning!

Hi Jean

I am getting back to you about the pizza in Ostuni … and I will throw in more on restaurants and accommodations from our trip in April ‘24.

Restaurants

• Bari - Ristorante Opera. Elegant dinner restaurant that was priced modestly. Quite enjoyed it and mentioned in our TR.
• Polignano a Mare - Cucina Confidenzial. Lovely sandwiches for lunch on homemade buns. We enjoyed outdoor seating; there’s also seating inside.
• Monopoli - our one poor meal in Puglia was dinner at Trip Advisor’s highly rated restaurant, Metae Ristorante.
• Ostuni - Tami Cucina e Pizza. As mentioned before, the pizza was excellent. A couple of downsides. The large green salad (with other vegetables) that we ordered had 4 tablespoon-sized scoops of pesto on it. We made the mistake of tossing the salad without removing 3 of the 4 scoops of pesto. The other downside was that it did not open for dinner until about half an hour after the scheduled opening, so we cooled our heels wandering around a bit. But the pizza was great!

Accommodations

We quite enjoyed the hotels that Puglia Cycle originally booked everywhere except for the one unfortunate experience we had in Lecce mentioned in our TR, but you’re not returning to Lecce anyway. As for the hotels where we stayed in towns you have mentioned, they were all 3 or 4 stars, charming, small and local, and nicely situated in the midst of historic town centers. All had good to very good bathroom facilities. All had Wi-Fi. And all included nice breakfasts.

• Alberobello - Trulli e Puglia. We had a two trullo suite with two very small bedrooms, a central living/dining room with a small kitchenette. Charm to beat the band.
• Monopoli - Albergo Diffuso. Rooms arranged around a little courtyard, steps away from the Castello Carlos V. Wi-Fi signal was weak.
• Ostuni - Albergo La Terra. Near the top of the hilltop. Very quiet street.
• Otranto - Dimore San Giuseppe (Hotel and Spa). This was pretty posh. Not quite as centrally located, but quiet and only two or three blocks from the Castello Aragonese. Hotel is in a 16th century former “farmhouse” just outside the medieval walled city, not as crowded with tourists yet still just steps away.

Final Comments

First, glad you’re going to Matera. If you’re there for a couple of days, it may make sense to get a guided tour early in your stay, so you will have a better orientation than we had. We were fortunate that we found a lovely restaurant for lunch with good food and a marvellous view overlooking the ancient town, La Nicchia Nel Sassi Osteria. From there we wandered into the historic town, along the Sassi, and went into San Nicola dei Greci, which I expect you will love given your reason for timing your travel to Bari. In any event, we had some real highs in our mere 3-1/2 hour visit. As part of trip prep you may wish to read Carlo Levi’s Christ Stopped at Ebola even though it is set elsewhere in Basilicata and only briefly gets to Matera. His art is apparently in a museum in Matera and though not terribly well reviewed, critically, it may be worth a visit if only to pull some pieces of his story together, his post WW2 role in the redevelopment of Matera and the history of Matera in the years before and after WW2. Just a thought. That’s along the path that we did not really travel.

Second. Nancys8 comments about the beauty of the mosaics in the church in Otranto are right on. When we were there, they were all visible. The crypt below the main floor might even be more fascinating. It was for me.

Third, re Ostuni. Since we biked, I have no idea how you get from the train station near Ostuni up to that hilltop town. It’s a big hill and probably a mile or 2km away.

Might be a wild idea for you without a car, but would you consider adding Trans and Castel del Monte before getting a bus to view and on to Caserta?

I've been to Puglia and Basilicata quite a few times and will return next spring. While I loved almost everyplace, Vieste was a true gem. Not much information on Gargano on this forum, or any others in English that I have found. I will never forget the agriturismo we dined at in the middle of the flies groves outside Vieste. And the unique food of that area of Puglia.

And if you can spend a night in Tursi or in Pisticchi, you might love either of those tiny towns near Matera.

Well, Jean, I think one night is a minimum for Trani, two would be better! Cisternino was kind of cute, but I don't think I'd pass up another stay in Locorotondo for it.

And since someone else mentioned Vieste, I will say we also loved it there and especially our visit to Peschici. Can you add more nights to your trip?!?!?

Pat, thank you for the restaurant recommendation for Ostuni! I will add that one to the list for dinners at Ostuni. : )

”Your next trip report must be titled “A Spark in Her /My Voice”!”

S J, good idea! Sounds like the beginning of a blog or book. ; )

Charlene,

Thank you so much for all of the details about Trani & the surrounding area!

Fred,

I appreciate all of the restaurant & hotel lodging recommendations, plus the info for Matera!

There’s a train that runs along the coast with an Ostuni station. But, the station is out some miles, so Trenitalia has a bus link that will take me up into the city. The options on the Trenitalia tickets have “Ostuni” or “Ostuni Citta”. The second one includes the bus link. Spoleto and some other Italian cities also have that option.

Ekscrunchy, the small places you mentioned in the Basilica region look so interesting! What an adventure that would be! : ). Unfortunately, they remind me of some I was supposed to go see in the Abruzzo region when I received the news of my husband’s death in May while I was in Sulmona. So, any charming mountain villages are still too raw for me to consider during this next trip.

Ekscrunchy & Janet, yes, the Gargano peninsula is pretty much out of reach for me because I don’t rent cars. I do read positive reviews about it, though.

Jean:
Here are some transport tips.
We got off the train from Caserta at Bari Centrale.
Walk out of that station, turn left and you’ll see signs for two smaller stations for the local trains, one line going to the Alberobello area, one to Matera via Altamura.
It’s a sort of right-angled area , the two doorways to the small stations are next to each other.
You want the FAL station.
There was no ticket office, just a machine in the hallway where we bought our tickets.
You can buy them in advance online, but we didn’t want to in case of delays.
Although I’m sure they are valid for a while until they are validated on the day of travel, but not certain.
The train was modern and clean, with confusing electronic signage on board.
We just asked other passengers as we knew we had to change at Altamura for the Matera train.
At Altamura, it’s poorly sign posted and under construction.
You get off, everyone mills about confused, then suddenly there was a big rush down the steps, under the street, back up more steps, along a street with no sidewalks, back into the station, and run to the platform….no signs anywhere!
I was the last person on as I don’t normally run anywhere.
We just asked and everyone said it was the right train, but who knew!?
It was.
At Matera Centrale, we looked around to see how to get our return tickets for three days later, but couldn’t find any way back into the huge building, it said closed.
We had exited through turnstiles.
We worried about it for 3 days, asking everyone including the TI centre…no luck.
Finally, the afternoon before, we went back to the station, walked right around the huge blank building, and found a small “In” door on the other side.
I guess that will be the front once the access road for drop-offs in cars is completed.
Got the tickets.
Just as well, as there was a power cut next day when we were leaving.
No electronic info, no lights anywhere, no ticket machines or desk working, no way of knowing about which train!
No one on the platform knew either, so as we were all going to Bari, we all got on the train that arrived at the right time.
The online timetable said it was a change at Altamura, which we dreaded, but for some reason, it just kept going to Bari.
Moral: ask three times to double-check, then check again!

At Ostuni:
We came out of the station looking for the bus, and saw the whole area under construction.
There are small handwritten signs with arrows saying bus this way.
We followed them up a slight hill to the right from the station.
A grubby rickety mini bus was waiting, again no sign, but he said “Get in! Get in..Ostuni”, so we did.
He wouldn’t take money as he said “No more tickets today”.
We rattled up the winding hill to a stop where the big tour buses stop.
Takes about 7-8 minutes.
Then you just walk up the steps, then up the street to your left to the main piazza.
Going back, the bus to the station leaves from the same stop, but that one was a proper city bus, I think it was E1 for a ticket.

This time we had bought our return train tickets before leaving Lecce for Ostuni.
Lesson learned.
Interestingly, no one ever checked our tickets on any Regionale train trip we took…I think there were 6.

Be sure to buy return tickets as well if you’re coming back through Bari.

S J, oh the fun of embracing the confusion! I bookmarked this post, and am glad to have your precise details to travel to Matera.

You made me smile, bringing back memories of my adventures searching around the Bari train station! I arrived from Polignano a Mare and all was well. Later the next day, I decided to go find out exactly where the bus would leave from “the station” to head to Alberobello the next morning. Whew! Good thing I went to check! I asked (in Italian) multiple people - including some officials, where to go and received a variety of answers. I think I earned a gelato from all of my walking mileage finding the right location - LOL! It ended up that “the station” was a sign about as big and noteworthy as one of our small US “no parking” white signs, located out the back of the train station, across & down the street, in front of a convenience variety store.

The next morning, I arrived 20 minutes early and saw a long line of people at the bus stop. I don’t know if I was more surprised that the line was so long, or that everyone was adhering to a line! ; ). Anyway, I was able to ride one of the two filled buses because they were calling out “una persona”, and I was traveling solo.

I will follow the crowd to reach Matera. : ). I tend to be the first one off trains and run, so hopefully all will turn out well.

Jean:
Yes, that’s why we chose the train to Matera, not the bus.
I looked at the “stop” on Google streetview and it wasn’t clear.

In Matera we stayed within walking distance of Matera Centrale in a nice, spacious apartment.
Great location for everything except…….noise at night.
It was on Via Lucana near Via Roma.
V. Lucana turns into a racetrack on weekend nights:many teenagers milling about screeching, cars with amped up stereo systems that literally shook our building going up and down the street, over and over, and motorbikes racing up and down.
All this went on till 5 am!, then the street cleaners…twice…for a good rinse, I guess!, then the construction guys arrive dropping their scaffolding, then the shop shutters go up.
Just when you’re drifting off….the church bells begin!
So, no sleep, or very little.

Then, on the Sunday night: it was so quiet all night, you could hear a pin drop!
So, be sure to stay further away from this street in Matera.

Jean, where are you planning to stay in Locorotondo this time? Is it a trullo? I've been looking at some of the ones recommended frequently on the forum and they are closed in January when we visit.

Hi Jules M, I stay in the center of the old town section. In Locorotondo, the trulli would be in the valley or edge of town. Here’s where I stayed last time. Absolutely nothing wrong with it. I just I would try a different B&B next May for some variety. I have reserved the Opera B&B for next time. For a trullo that I loved, I’ll add the one at Alberobello:

In Alberobello I stayed at Le Alcove - Luxury LOL! I reserved the smallest room - “The Poet” of the Le Alcove Luxury Hotel nei Trulli which was very central but also easy to find. It was such a special little “nest for the night”, truly beautiful and came with a large breakfast they serve customers. Waking up in the morning, gazing up at the conical ceiling is a special memory!

For Locorotondo, I stayed in the king-room with a balcony at Domus San Giovanni’s B&B. The beautiful ceiling is shaped like a square trullo interior instead of the conical shape. The room even included a tiny kitchen with a Nespresso-type for coffee before breakfast. A nice breakfast is served on the top floor of a nearby B&B (very steep steps up to the breakfast).