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Back to Italy in March, I sure could use some suggestions/help

I've been thinking for a while about exploring Umbria and Tuscany mostly by car. Now seems as good a time as any . . . hoping Covid won't throw another spanner in the works before then.

My dates are fixed by outside circumstances. My only flight options: arrive Friday, March 18 Milan (9.15 am) or Rome (2.30 pm) , depart Rome Wed. April 6, (9.30 pm). Short flights, no jetlag

With nearly 3 weeks it felt like I'd be able to see a lot. Then I started planning . . . . How can I go to Italy and not spend a few days in Venice, one of my very favorite cities in the world. Since I'm flying out of Rome, I can't reconcile myself to NOT spending a few nights there at the end. Can I spend time between the two and not stop for a couple days in Florence? That now leaves me with about 8 days for "village Italy,"

First decision. Fly into Milan and train to Venice or loop from Rome. I'm leaning toward Milan. And no, I am not willing to give up Venice :-).

Second decision. Where to go in the middle with a rental car (I've driven in Italy before but not in the "middle")? I've been to Orvieto, Bologna, Ravenna, Ferrara, Assisi and Siena (though that's a town I'd like to go back to). I took a brief look at a 2016 RS Italy book and there's not much there outside of Tuscany. I prefer 2-3 night stays with more driving, but I'm okay with 1-nighters.
Venice 4N
Florence 3N
Rome 3-4N
8-9N open.

Third decision. Where to stay in Venice and Rome? I'm a budget traveler, but will pay a little more for comfort (like a double bed instead of the typical narrow European single). Cleanliness, comfort and ensuite bath are priorities. I've always stayed in the Dorsoduro in Venice, but I thought it might be good to stay in a different area for a change.

It's both exciting and challenging to be planning a trip. After nearly three years, I'm pretty rusty at it.

Posted by
16492 posts

You now face the same dilemna I do wanting to go back to places you truly like.

Here's my initial suggestion:

Fly to Milan.

Train to Venice.

Enjoy Venice.

Train to Florence.

Spend time in Florence.

Pick up a rental car outside Florence and explore Tuscany and Umbria. (You could even take the train to Siena and pick up the car there.)

Return the car near Rome.

Enjoy Rome.

You don't need a rental car in Venice or Florence, and you want to explore Tuscany and Umbria, then my suggestion is only rent the car when exploring those two regions. This way you are not paying for a car on days you don't need it. (Nor worrying about parking, ZTL's, etc.)

Don't just use the RS Italy book. (Especially one that's five years old.) It's limited on where to visit. Check out Lonely Planet or Rogue guides to the area. Perhaps ones more specific to Tuscany and Umbria.

Posted by
10337 posts

Chani, I agree with Frank. Definitely fly into Milan and train straight to Venice. Sorry I don’t have any recommendations there as I haven’t been for — good lord nearly 30 years. In fact this week watching Elizabeth Minchilli’s Stories on Instagram from there I am thinking heck I need to get back!

If I were going, for the countryside Tuscan part, I would stay somewhere in the Val d’Orcia. I know there have to be lots of recommendations on the Forum for great agriturismos etc. there. Pick up your car leaving Florence, or even take the train down to Chiusi and pick it up there.

You can return your car at Orvieto and take the train into Rome, or what my husband I did was drive and return our car to the the airport and take the Leonardo Express into town.

For hotel, I recently stayed for a second time at the Hotel Smeraldo. I wouldn’t say it’s like a dream hotel or anything, but it is a small independent that is very well run, and well located between the Torre Argentina and Campo di Fiori (and RIGHT across the street from Roscioli). Only stay here if you can get a double room WITH A TERRACE — that makes the difference. The rooms are nothing fancy (but clean and correct - some are redone) but there’s nothing better than relaxing with a cup of tea or some Roscioli goodies and a beer on your own Roman terrace (I travel with my immersion coil heater, and got the breakfast team to let me borrow a teapot).

There’s a hotel that’s randomly just outside the town of Sinalunga that I just LOOOOOOVE but it lacks the charm of being out in the country. It does have a fantastic restaurant connected though. My husband and I stayed there one night and I dream of going back. Check it out: Relais la Leopoldina.

Sorry these are just random thoughts instead of something comprehensive, but hopefully you’ll find a nugget or two in here that is helpful !!!

Also for Rome eateries, check out Sophie Minchilli’s highlights on Instagram and her mother Elizabeth probably has Umbrian highlights (they live in Romebut have a house in Todi, Umbria). I would looooove to do one of Elizabeth’s tours, but they are out of my budget. She shares a lot of information though !!

Posted by
1089 posts

Hello, Chani. For your free days, why not scoot right on to Umbria? You’ve been to Emilia Romagna and Tuscany before. In 2016, I spent two weeks in Umbria and had no trouble filling the days. Todi, Spello, Amelia, San Gemini, Bevagna, Deruta were all great. I never made it to Assisi or Perugia or Castiglione del Lago or Lake Trasimeno generally. And if that’s not enough, head a little farther south to Le Marche to see Ascoli Piceno. I drove solo for most of my visit and had a great time on the small roads. Just watch out for the fixed speed cameras conveniently placed around the blind side of those curves. I don’t have any great lodging recommendations but I will say Todi was my favourite. I really like the idea of a long week exploring just one region in more depth (with a few of your favourites tucked in too.)

I’ve posted recently about a hotel in Rome that I like. It’s well-located and well-run. Navona Queen Rooftop.

Posted by
11818 posts

I have a couple of possible hotels for you in Venice (also one of my favorites!). Ca’Angeli is near the Rialto in San Polo. Quiet, 24x7 staffing, secure, good breakfast. Very convenient location away from the noisy bridge area. Locanda La Corte is near SS Giovanni e Paolo, also quiet, classic old Venetian rooms, nice courtyard, good breakfast, and a bit inconvenient location less than 10 minutes walk from the Rialto Bridge.

Great itinerary from Frank II.

Posted by
3107 posts

Chani, I don’t remember who on the forum recommended this Venice B&B. I booked a room for the end of September. Only 3 rooms, located behind San Marco, very responsive owners. For 4 nights the rate was €115/night. https://www.cortecampana.com/

Posted by
28375 posts

I liked the relatively non-touristy Viterbo and Tuscania in northern Lazio.

I hope this year I'll finally make it to Gubbio; it has been on my list forever.

There's lots to see in Padua, but I suspect you've been there.

I have no clue what the March weather will be like in any of those places; I've never looked at temperatures outside the April-October time frame.

Posted by
213 posts

If you're interested in Todi, take a look at Elizabeth Minchilli's blog. She and her daughter run week-long tours in Italy as well as food tours in Rome. Elizabeth lives in Rome but her country house is in Todi. The countryside looks beautiful. In fact the view from her patio is the screensaver on my phone.

ref: https://www.elizabethminchilli.com/

Posted by
17572 posts

Chani, I cannot recall your travel style, but if you would consider an apartment in Venice, I highly recommend the Venice Red House company, owned by Venetians Marco and Caroline. This apartment in Cannaregio is 120 a night in March:

https://www.veniceredhouse.com/apartments-in-venice/the-waterview-alcove-apartment/

We may be there ourselves in early March (but not in that apartment). Our itinerary is from Milan—-Venice-Ferrara, Siena, Bologna- back to Milan.

Posted by
3315 posts

First fly into Milan.
Second take a direct bus from Florence to Siena (1h 15m) and sleep there. Siena is magical at night when you scroll Il Campo square with a “to go” lemoncello (order at restaurant). The next day take a direct train to Montepulciano (1h 15m). You’ll need to take a taxi to the old town and spend the day there. Sleep in Siena.
After two nights in Siena check out of your hotel and rent a car to drive to Pienza (1h 15m) along the scenic Crests Road and tour its old town. No need to get an early start in case there’s fog on this hilly curvy road.
Afterwards drive to San Gimignano (1h 45) that becomes more attractive as you drive up the hill and sleep in San Gimignano. The next day take a day trip to Volterra (45-minutes which is another pretty drive). After two nights in San Gimignano drive to Chiusi (1h 30) and drop off your car. Take a taxi to the Chiusi-Chianciano Terminal where you can hop on a direct train to Rome (2h).
Third try to sleep in Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood, it’s worth paying a bit more for its beauty. If not, contact Hotel Smeraldo nearby that’s across the river. Do buy Rick Steves IT guidebook (26th edition) and take his Trastevere self-guided walk. You also want to pay attention to Rick’s Trastevere restaurant suggestions.

Posted by
10337 posts

Oh yes Chani this mention reminds me -- better than following the walks as laid out in the guidebooks is following them through the Rick Steves Audio Europe app. When I was in Rome earlier this month, I did the Trastevere and Jewish quarter walks, as well as the Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museums. The app also provides the map. Very handy and you don't have to look down to read from the book.

Posted by
15798 posts

Thank you all. I'm on the verge of booking the flights, into Milan and out of Roma. Your advice made Milan an easy choice with no hand-wringing.

I guess I wasn't clear about the car rental. I only plan to have the car for my "village Italy" tour. I did a little checking and it appears my best (cheapest reliable) option is Europcar (Fiat Panda is perfect for me). The only disadvantage is any one-way rental ups the price by €80-90 which is a lot more than an additional train ticket.

So here's the revised plan:

Venice 4N
Florence 3N
Village Italy with rental car 9N, drop car in Florence, train to Rome
Rome 3N (really 4 days, since I have a night flight home)

Now I need recommendations for up to 3 bases with the car. Each base must be easy to drive in and out of for day tripping and have at restaurants for dinner (remember it's March and mostly mid-week, so some places may be closed??). And what towns and other sights to visit. I would like to go back to Assisi for a few hours, mainly to see the frescoes again.

Nelly, I will check out all the places you mentioned, especially Todi.

MaryPat I will try to get to Montepulciano and Chiusi at least on day trips.

Posted by
3645 posts

Chiusi has a terrific Etruscan museum; and, years ago, when we were in the area, you could sign up for a guided walk into the associated tombs. It (Chiusi) also has the advantage of being on the A1, so staying there or nearby is great from the transportation standpoint.