avoiding pickpockets on Vesuviana and metro

Yes, leave your good watch at home. I'd have told you that if you were visting Italy or France or England or even Liechtenstein. Leave the good stuff at home and that includes all good jewelry.

I think it is wise not have good jewelery including watches. Most pickpockets are trying to be sneaky and take something without your knowledge. The probability of taking a watch is very low. Just take some reasonable precautions and be aware.

The first time we rode the Circumvesuviana we were scared to death because of Rick's description of it...but we've been to Sorrento many times since then and have never, ever had a problem on that train, nor saw anyone else ever have a problem. I totally agree with both Frank's advice, and always be careful wherever you are, but no need to be as scared as we were that first time :)

We did not have any problems on this train either but I would still leave the good jewelry at home.

The only problem I had on the Circumvesuviana train was that it was about 100 degrees F inside, packed with people and nobody would open the windows. It seems to be an unwritten rule in Italy to keep the windows closed on a hot train even if there is no AC and the sun is boiling in. Italians must like it hot!!! :-)

Elinda,
I would also be cautious with whatever you use for a day bag. I carry my good camera in a messenger bag because I can wear it across my body and it isn't as obvious that it contains anything valuable. I was on a packed metro in Rome and was trying to keep my arm over my bag to keep it close. When I got off, the zipper had been undone. Fortunately with my arm around it they couldn't get the camera out but someone did try to reach in and see what they could come up with. People were packed in so tight I couldn't even tell someone was in it even though I was aware that it was a perfect environment for a pickpocket. Now when I am on crowded metros i hold my hand over the zipper closure so I know no one can get in it.

Anne, yours is the perfect example of why I have always put my bag at my feet when it is that crowded. Wearing a bag, front or back, puts it at a level when hands can get to it. If it is on the floor, they cannot reach it. How you handle a bag in a crowded situation is critical.

I am a very experienced traveler in Italy as I go there every year. A few days before we were to leave we wanted to go into Roma on the Metro and I decided not to use my money belt. Instead, I put my credit cards and camera in my right cargo pants pocket with a button. We arrive in Roma were transferring from Line A to Line B at Stazione Termini. As we boarded the car for Line B I felt someone pushing from behind and I also felt something on my right cargo pants pocket. I looked down and saw a hand trying to unbutton the pocket of my cargo pants. I grabbed the hand and found it attached to a Peruvian Indian lady. I pulled the hand forward, started yelling, and then I did the next right thing...I started beating her with the full half litre water bottle I was carrying. I started beating on her arm trying to work my way up to her face when she finally was able to wrestle her hand away from mine. My girl friend could not understand what I was doing and why I was assaulting someone. No one came to help and there were no police around. Fortunately, she was unsuccessful and escaped with nothing more than some assorted bruises. Much later I reported the incident to a subway policeman when we were returning to Termini. The next day when we came into Roma to go to the Vatican on the Metro I was wearing my money belt. As luck would have it, I saw that lady from the Metro car at the Barberini Station sitting on a subway platform scoping the crowd. I started yelling at her and pointing from the car and she recognized me and tried to hide her face. They wait until you are boarding the car and then they make their move. So now the thieves are multi-national and quick. I was dumb and lucky. BEWARE!

RB

I've seen thieves, as young as six or seven, get into people's bags. At that age, they can ride a crowded bus or subway and go through bags on the floor. No one sees them working because of the crowds.

I feel the only safe way to carry a bag on a crowded mode of transportation is to find a way to lock or connect the zippers together to make it very difficult for anyone to open them. A lock, carabiner or even a safety pin will do. And keep the bag in sight. Out of sight, out of valuables.

I admit to a bit of overkill...a money belt, a Pacsafe Messenger Bag, and when I use one, a Pacsafe Wallet with chain connected to my belt. I don't care what others think when they see this...I feel secure, but not complacent.

The posting about the 100 degree train car with all the windows closed made me laugh. Same thing happened to us on a different train. Apparently Italians (especially older Italians) have a fear of drafts. They think that a breeze (lo spiffero) can make you sick. I tried to open a window on that car, only to have it slammed shut by an older Italian woman as we all continued to bake and sweat like pigs. I chose to go between the cars to get some fresh air.

I'd echo what Susan said. My 1st time in Italy I arrived at FCO and was terrified on the train from the airport to Roma Termini because of all the warnings in Ricks books. I guess if it keeps you safe then its worth it, but don't feel as if you're running a gauntlet of thieves and pickpockets every time you are in a public place!

They do exist, of course, and so you should take reasonable precautions. I've taken the Circumvesuviana train several times, and in fact will be making several trips on it in this September. As others have said, leave the good jewelry and watches at home. You just need to know the time. Use the money belt. And the other advice is avoid being near the train doors if you can; you don't want someone to grab a bag and jump out the door just as the train is about to leave a station.

BTW I'd recommend sitting on the right side of the train (based on the direction of travel) to get some nice views if you take if farther down towards Sorrento; I don't remember if the views are there between Naples and Pompeii.

RB said:

" . . . They wait until you are boarding the car and then they make their move."

This past May - June we did Rome-Florence-Venice-Sorrento-Rome over 14 days. The only attempt I am aware of that was made to pickpocket me occurred as I was getting on the Circumvesuviana in Naples on the way to Sorrento. I felt his hand try to go into my right front pocket. Out of reflex I clamped down hard with my arm at which point he withdrew and jumped off the train.

There was nothing in that pocket, nor in any other pocket except for my euro for the day in one zippered shirt pocket.

For all I know there could have been other attempts that I don't know about because there was nothing for anyone to take and for me to miss.

Elinda,

"Do thieves take watches from your wrist?"

Yes, they certainly can. I remember something vaguely about George Bush having his watch "nicked" when he was in a crowd in Albania. If it can happen to him, it can certainly happen to you! Unfortunately, I can't remember the details of that incident?

Wear a cheap, easily replaced watch (I wear a $15 Casio dual time zone digital when travelling) and of course WEAR your Money Belt! I think the digital is probably a bit less attractive to thieves, as most people there seem to prefer analog wathches - the shop windows are full of them!

Happy travels!

Here's the guy who stole Mr Bush's watch. Even though he's more magician than pickpocket, it illustrates how easy it is to steal a watch even when people are watching: