I am about ready to lose my mind. I have spent countless hours on the computer trying to find a working family farm in Tuscany (somewhere between Montepulciano and Siena or Greve) that offers lodging and cooking opportunities. I am a Slow Food leader in my home town and am looking for a truly authentic family farm stay experience for a couple of nights rather than the week long, self service, swimming pool/spa experience it appears agriturismi has become. I want to experience the family, their food, and their way of life. Please, does anyone out there have any recommendations?? Thank you!! :)
We don't usually stay at agriturismi, preferring to stay in towns, so we can walk around in the evening after dinner. The two we've stayed at, however (Il Poggio, outside of San Casciano dei Bagni, southern Tuscany, for a horseback riding trip, and Le Case, outside of Macerata in Le Marche) were indeed what I would call "authentic family farms" despite offering some spa-like elements and very nice accommodations. In each case, they owned olive groves, raised animals and crops and harvested and sold them to make money. At Il Poggio, they had a small store where they sold their olive oil, wine, etc. At Le Case, we could wander around, including the farm portion, and see their sheep, pigs, pigeons, rabbits, and various poultry, all of which appeared on the dinner menu. To me, that's authentic. Le Case, we stayed three nights, not a week. So my advice would be to keep on looking, but be aware that even if parts are like a spa, probably most places are also real, working farms. Another idea is that maybe a B&B on a farm would give you more of the type of thing you may be looking for.
Alyssa, I will be staying at Agriturismo Marciano near Siena this fall. Many people have raved about it on this sight. Check out their videos on YouTube and see if this is what you are looking for. They also have a website. They have a vineyard and they produce olive oil. I don't think it is a spa like atmosphere. Their dinners are not to be missed, I am told, and I can't wait to experience it for myself.
I stayed at Agriturismo Marciano and loved it. It is not spa-like at all. The dinners are fantastic. They are available approximately every other night. But...I don't know if it is what you are looking for. They do the cooking. You might be able to sit and watch the preparations, but I doubt they will allow you to cook with them. They make wine and olive oil. The food they prepare is all local food, much of which comes from their organic garden. It would be a great place for you if you don't mind not actually cooking. They don't show it on their website, but they have a small apartment they rent in addition to the other rooms. Eileen (Texan in CA) has stayed in the apartment, so maybe she will chime in. If the kitchen is adequate you could do your own cooking.
In May we spent a week at Casa Rondini on the border between Tuscany and Umbria nr Monteggabione. It is an organic farm growing olives, grapes and saffron owned by a lovely gracious family who are passionate about their property and their food. They offer the opportunity to prepare three dinners each week with the family: a pizza night at the cantina with the forno; a saffron night and a pasta-making night. Franco was a chef in London for years and he knows his food - plus both he and his wife, Bosena, are fluent in English. Bosena has a large and varied vegetable garden and guests can help themselves to the produce and any fruit in season along with lovely free-range eggs from their resident chickens. Bosena is a vegetarian but Franco does eat meat. They have six apartments and the one we stayed in had every comfort - a good workable kitchen and a nice eating area on the deck. There is a grocery store in the nearest village that has a fairly good selection of staples. Not sure about short-stays - I know the same folks
come back year after year - esp. at harvest times.
Dang it, Andrea! We weren't going to mention OUR place on the Helpline ever again. What if we can't make reservations the next time? ;-) IF you want to do some cooking of your own: there's a 4-burner stove (electric), a double-sink, and a dorm-sized refrigerator (cold) in the apartment. I never used the stove. Utensils were a bit lacking, and I don't recall any dishes, glassware, etc. You should be able to get some from them...or as we did, just use your picnic stash. It's very spacious and the table expands to double-size, I think. Otherwise, definitely eat at their dinners!!! Read the reviews on TripAdvisor. 'Nuff said. And for heaven's sake, don't tell anybody about this place ;-)
Sorry Eileen. I know I said I wouldn't sing the praises of Marciano anymore, but someone else mentioned it first. I actually think the other place that was mentioned sounds better for what Alyssa wants anyway.
Thanks all for the great feedback! I really appreciate it. I will look in to all of your recommendations, and I know how precious special places are (Marciano). I have a place like that in Jamaica...I can't help but want to tell people about it, yet I don't want it so booked up that I can't go there anymore! I did finally discover another resource in case anyone else reads this thread...www.chiantiferie.net. It's a consortium of family farms/agriturismi that's run by one of the farmers. It's looking like I'll have to take a cooking class elsewhere somehow on my trip, and just settle on a farm that serves dinner. I use the word "settle" loosely as I know the farm and dinner we experience will be wonderful. As much as I love to cook, I really want to enjoy foods of the region as prepared by the locals rather than making things myself. You all have been great, thanks again!!