Assisi or Spello for a base in Umbria?

Too bad about avoiding Spoleto because of the festival - That's why I would want to be there. Anyway, I think Assisi would be a great choice. It's truly beautiful and you're spot on about the flood of tourists during the day. That said, they're easy enough to get away from if you just wander away from the major pedestrian thoroughfares.

Here are some photos I took in Assisi when we were there in May 2008, in case you're interested: https://flic.kr/s/aHsiWgtPEm

"Or, should we stay in a quieter place like Spello and daytrip to Assisi?"

I suggest the opposite. Assisi is at its best in the early morning and evening, when the daytrippers are gone. Michael is correct; it is possible to avoid the throngs even at mid-day. Hike up to Rocca Maggiore; explore backstreets, with treasures like the old church of San Stefano; or take the bus down to Santa Maria degli Angeli. We were there five days, and never ran out of things to do.

To add to Michael's excellent photos, here are ours of Assisi from September 2013.

Thanks for the input. It looks Assisi is the place to be. Michael and Jeff your photos are great. I especially like the "monk" with a cell phone, Jeff and Michael, I can never refuse to pet a cat when on vacation--he looks very comfy in your pic. thanks for sharing them

Hi, we just spent our Easter weekend in Assisi and it's absolutely amazing. We stayed in an agriturismo called Paradiso44, just 10km from Assisi. It gave us a perfect dose of the town combine with the countryside where we can breathe and the kids can run. We travelled with 3 kids.

Piero, the guy who is in charge at Paradiso44, has never failed to recommend and book cool places for us to eat every evening.

Hope you like it too,
Didi

I am in Assisi as a director of an international music festival the first two-three weeks of July. Tour groups literally run in and out from mid-morning to late afternoon, but they tend to miss some of the more beautiful areas off the Piazza Commune (go head up the hill or down anything that looks like an alley and you'll find a whole different experience). And the tour groups leave early. The evening in Assisi is truly magical. The breeze from the valley cools the city down. The clean air makes the stars almost touchable. Everything and everybody slows down and every year our singers and instrumentalists comment about the tranquility and creativity they experience, which is not always what we musicians experience when performing. There are churches and 'former' churches that wonderful to visit - not just the Basilica of St. Francis (which is a very moving experience). There are art galleries and artists workplaces that cover over a thousand years of the Assisi effect on people. Ceramics and leather, olive oil and wines are always good buys! Go to Santa Maria Maggiore (great water from the fountain there in the piazza). Below the Catholic church is a Roman temple. After the earthquake they discovered an Etruscan temple underneath that! For 2700 years that space has been considered 'holy.' There has to be a reason! Find a garden restaurant or any restaurant with a view of the valley and experience the local food and wine that is honest and authentic and delicious. Hint: you want to be there at sunset or later. Find a bar to your liking in the Piazza Commune and just sit and relax! By the way, you are on top of the ancient Roman Forum (entrance is opposite the Temple of Minerva (also a Catholic church with a very long past). Check Rick's book or TripAdvisor for hotel recommendations - we stay at the Hotel Sole every year so I can't comment on any other place. Spello is also a beautiful city but I like spending the daylight hours there. Spoleto is also a great day trip. I wouldn't worry about crowds - in the past couple of years we have seen the crowds and performances diminish a bit. The Italian economy is seriously hurting the performing arts right now. We call Assisi something else as we are planning the festival throughout the year: "Paradise." And when we get there we call it: "Home."

I would definitely recommend Spello as a home base. We stayed 10 days in Spello in March 2011, which we used for a home base for discovering Tuscany and Umbria. We stayed in Casa Spello, which has 4 apartments. We stayed in the Marc Anthony apartment, which was very unique and comfortable. Spello
wasn't touristy like Assisi. We visited Assisi as a day trip along with Perugia, Gubbio, Deruta and others. I have always dreamed of returning to Spello.

Looks like you've received some advice you can use. Buon viaggio!

Robert, your vivid descriptions are making me want to go back to Assisi. We spent only two nights there, and were stuck in a hotel out on the edge of town. (The one time I used a travel agent to book lodging. Never again.)

I would agree with everything that Robert said. We discovered Assisi in 1994 on a big bus tour. We were only there one night but it was special. We have been going back on a regular basis since 1999. We stayed 5 or 6 times at Hotel Umbra because it is in the center and the rooms have views over the valley. In recent years, because we stay longer, we rent apartments. We have been to Spello twice and it is nice but we have never stayed there. Many reviews rate it favorably but our hearts and spirits belong to Assisi. We are frequently gone during the day so we miss a lot of the other tourists.

Whatever you decide, have a wonderful trip.