At age 75 we were just married and plan to spend our 5 week honeymoon in Italy. We land at 9:00 AM in Rome (FCO) and need exacting advice on when and how to book train travel to Vernazza. I spent a month in Italy 15 years ago and train travel VS congestion was not an issue then. But now, at a more advanced age, it has become a bit more concerning. Clearing customs and getting luggage, plus the walk to either a taxi or to the train all takes valuable time. How long should we allow before boarding a train to Vernazza and what type of train should we book...fast or regional?
Specific info would be most appreciated!!
Congratulations!
You will be quite tired after arriving from a flight into Rome.
I’m younger than you, and I’m exhausted after a flight and wouldn’t think of traveling onward on the same day.
I think all of us would suggest booking a hotel near Termini Railway station in Rome for your first night.
If your flight is late, you may miss the train you may have booked.
Next day, you can take the train from Termini and be assured of getting on the one that day, which you will have prebooked.
It takes between 4 to 6 hours to get to Vernazza, changing trains at least once.
I think you’ll find you will enjoy the whole trip better after a night’s sleep.
You will be more aware, and less likely to make any mistakes.
Have a look at the Trenitalia and Italo websites for your trains.
Get the apps for both on your phone or device.
Only book tickets through either of these two.
Also, look at www.seat61.com for great up to date info about Italian trains and how to use them.
Happy planning!
I thought the same as AJ. If you must press on, no need to book in advance, as you cannot predict how long arrival will take---but at 25 years younger I would not want to do it. See schedules at the Trenitalia website.
I wouldn't book in advance, get a through ticket from FCO station to Vernazza at the counter. Try to depart at 11:08, this way you will change only twice.
The Airport train to Roma Termini (1st leg) has no reserved seating and can't sell out, just like the local from La Spezia to Vernazza (3rd leg). The fares of both trains are fixed, no discounts for early birds.
The Frecciabianca #8616 from Roma Termini to La Spezia could, but won't sell out. In a month from today schools will be open and the season will be over for Italians.
Couldn't you fly from Rome to either Genoa or Pisa and spend a night there?
I certainly wouldn't spend my first night in Rome just because I flew overnight - I have many times taken a train or an even an onward flight after landing in Europe after a red eye flight. Sure, I'm tired, but I'm going to be tired anyway. Nothing wrong with spending the first night or two in Rome of course if that's what you want...but if you don't, just take the train north right away.
There's a FrecciaBianca (express) train leaving Rome Termini station at 11:57am, arriving at La Spezia (connecting station close to Vernazza) at 15:44. There are lots of regional trains on from there to Vernazza - the first one leaving at 15:45. You could get on the airport train into Rome as late as 11:08 and still have plenty of time to connect.
As a compromise, you could stop somewhere in between Rome and the Cinque Terre e.g. Florence or Lucca if you want to start out somewhere else besides Rome without needing to spend five hours on trains the first day.
Congrats on your recent marriage and perfect honeymoon choice! We are in our mid 70s and have enjoyed many multi week trips to our favorite Italy. It is absolutely more crowded than 15 years ago. SO take Rick’s advice to beat the crowds and enjoy!
We get around by train, bus, ferry, and sometimes hired car (ie. Amalfi Coast to Naples train.) My husband likes the DBNavigate phone app for information about Italian train routes and times, instead of having to check several sites.
We buy our train tickets at the station from an official window, booth or kiosk. Local station workers have been helpful. We take the fast trains when available, but our first priority is a route with the fewest transfers. The train shuttle from Rome FCO airport to Rome Termini train station is called Leonardo Express. Others here gave great advice for train choices.
We usually buy first class seats because in our experience there is more room to stow your luggage near your seat. But pack light anyway! Watch for your train’s track number on the lighted arrivals and departures board. Remember that trains are listed by the city at the end of the line, not necessarily your destination city. See Rick’s website for more info.
Your ticket will list the train’s car number along with your seat numbers. Be ready to move because train car #1, for instance, could be the first one, or the very last at the far end of the platform! We speak from experience. Once again, pack light!
We bring our hiking sticks for outings with lots of stairs, cobblestones, and on hiking trails. Since you are staying in Vernazza that might be of interest? Even some of the train stations, ie La Spezia, have stairs to get from one side of the platform to the other. However, hiking sticks cannot go in carry-on luggage. Check for ideas on Rick’s travel forum.
And most important, pack light and always have some Euro coins for the toilettes!
Keep on travelin’
I want to thank all that have provided advice. We have had reservations for 8 nights each in Vernazza, Florence, Venice, Senna (just 3 nights) and Rome in that order for over a year now. Our reservations for Vernazza begin on the day that we land in Rome. We are traveling from the east coast of the US so we won't be in the air as long as some of you from the west coast or Canada. It will be a long and exhausting journey from the evening of Sept 17 through our arrival in Vernazza on Sept 18. But we figured that since we would be trying to get into a regular sleep pattern for European time that we would force ourselves to stay awake that first day!
Our biggest concern was which train to catch and at what time, taking into consideration customs, baggage claim and the train from the FCO into Rome's central station and if we should book ahead or obtain tickets once we get to Rome's central station.
Our next concern was which train line would offer the most comfortable ride with the least number of stops.
Any more suggestions out there??????
Dario has given you the train to take, minimizing changes. It definitely help to familiarize yourselves with the Trenitalia website and cross-reference with a map so you know where you are on the route.
The only remaining issue is that the train puts me right to sleep after an overnight flight, so make sure one of you is in charge of being ready for those train changes!
If you're headed to Vernazza, I'd suggest flying into Milan. If that's an option, let me know and I'll give some advice. It's an easy trip from Milano Centrale.
Unfortunately, we can not change our flight reservations as they were made months and months ago so that we could obtain the seating that we desired.
You could try removing a day from Vernazza if you were worried about it, but it sounds like you are going into it knowing it will be a rough day, then you'll have five weeks to recover after all!
The trains that Dario suggests are great. But the timing between the first leg and the 8616 departure is only about 20 minutes, kinda cutting it? The Leonardo Express shuttle from FCO on Sept 18th leaves approximately every 15 minutes. If possible you might want to catch an earlier one and maybe get to Termini in time for a quick gelato break. Remember when looking for your train to La Spezia on the departure board it will be listed by the train #8616, and probably Genova which is the final destination.
As suggested by valadelfia it is helpful to know the complete train schedule. We try to take a screen shot from the train website or a photo of schedules that are posted in stations. It looks like there are seven stops before La Spezia. So as you go through the countryside you can keep track of where you are and notice which town is ahead of yours. Some stops are very brief, so be ready with your belongings so once the train stops you can get to the door.
Also don’t forget that train tickets which do not have reserved time and seating, ie. the Leonardo or the local from La Spezia to Vernazza, must be validated at the little machine box in the station or on the platform. Rick’s website gives lots of info about this.
Since you are asking about comfort, I again suggest buying first class tickets if possible. Last early May we took the train from Monterosso (one town from Vernazza) to La Spezia, then changed trains to Rome. The first class seating on the fast train was three across instead of four, had tables for a book or tablet, very comfortable. By the way, the small La Spezia station was jammed with people in this year of increased travel everywhere, so pack your patience.
Congrats on your marriage!
Download the Trenitalia app on your phone - it is easy to use and will show you track numbers, if trains are delayed, etc. iIf you store a credit card, you can make your purchases right on the app.
That being said, it is very easy to buy your Leonardo Express ticket right at the airport.
My husband and I are both in our early 70’s and will go right to our first stop - we’re usually wide awake when we land - it does help if you are flying comfort, premium or business class
Take the advice of everyone on here who has said pack light. I have learned from experience to take a smaller bag plus a backpack. So many times the elevators in train stations haven’t worked and we’ve had to use the stairs lugging our bags. And yes to booking first class on trains just to have more space for your bag
Enjoy your honeymoon
In the worst-case scenario, changing trains at Termini means a 250 meters level walk.
In the best case the airport train will arrive at Termini's track #24 and the train to La Spezia will depart from track #22.
In both cases you should be able to walk to the next train in less than 20 minutes, assuming you use wheeled suitcases and not trunks.
Paper regional tickets must be time-stamped as described above.
Since August 5, Digital regional tickets must be activated via app. No data connection, no ticket.
I would stay right in the Rome airport and get on the direct flight to Genoa at 1:25 pm, which arrives in an hour. I would then take the train, also an hour ride, to Vernazza. But that's just me. Sounds faster and less hectic.