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Arrivederci Firenze

I left my heart in Venezia and took a very comfortable train trip to Firenze. Most of the seating in my car was with tables, so it was easy to shove my suitcase in the gap between forward/backward seats. I left at 1.30 pm and there were very few passengers, even on the last (and most frequented) leg from Bologna, I don't think more than 1/4 of the seats were taken.

After getting settled, I had a little walk around and then headed to a restaurant recommended by one of my waiters in Venice, for good, typical Florentine food. I eat vegetarian and a little fish - that doesn't fit with Florentine apparently. The menu items without meat could be counted on one hand. I had a wonderful appetizer called onion under ashes. A whole peeled onion, doused with red wine and liberally sprinkled with herbs is wrapped in aluminum foil and baked under embers for 7-8 hours. Then I had my first "with bread" soup. It was like a porridge and might have been good if it had been hot and better seasoned. Lastly I had grilled vegetables. That's what they were, unadorned slices of zucchini and aubergine that had been grilled. I had a half bottle of very good local red wine (but maybe not 20E good for 375 ml). The service was designed to give diners a leisurely meal. From seating to check took 2-1/2 hours, not what you want when you're alone, tired, and still have to go home and unpack.

Yesterday was much better. I had a lazy morning, walked through the central market and browsed some of the leather stalls in the surrounding streets, then ambled around the Duomo, window-shopped in expensive via Roma, had a look at the sculptures in Piazza della Signoria - I believe some are originals, and tried my luck at the Uffizi. 10 minutes in line and I had my ticket. I was ready to check my jacket and small backpack, they refused (only large backpacks are accepted). There's a fairly strict one-way route through the galleries, with arrows and exes above each doorway. If you go through one the wrong way, there's an electronic beep, but none of the guards seemed to react. I only heard the beeps in the first few rooms. The building is U-shaped, the stairs are in the middle. You walk through one side, return to the middle, walk the other side and backtrack again. At the end of the second side is the cafeteria. Yesterday was warm (about 17C) and sunny and it was time for some food and relaxing. There was one table open and an English couple just behind me. We agreed to share which was great, getting to chat with other people who love travel and art, while rejuvenating with an Aperol spritz. I spent about 4.5-5 hours there, including an hour lunch break. When I left, I decided to abort my plan for then next day (today) to go to 2 other museums. I felt like a philistine for feeling overdosed on art, but the forecast was for 21C and clear skies. What a shame it would be to waste the beautiful weather . . .. .

With absolutely no plan I left my hotel and meandered to the Duomo, thinking to have a second look at a couple of leather bags I'd seen, when a plan suddenly leapt into my head to take the bus to Fiesole. I finally found the bus stop just missing the bus. 25 minutes of standing in the sun . . . I wandered a bit uphill in Fiesole for a view, then back to the piazza (maybe the only one?) for what turned out to be an amazing lunch (tagliatelle with fresh porcini mushrooms to die for and okay house wine, a bottle of sparkling water and cover charge for 20E), a hike up to the classic viewpoint (so hazy you could hardly make out the Duomo) and back down to just miss another bus.

I'm running out of space and it's really late. To be continued . . . .

Posted by
9436 posts

Really enjoying reading your reports Chani, thank you!

Posted by
755 posts

Yes please keep us posted. I will be there (Venice/Tuscany/Amalfi coast/ Naples) next month traveling with family who have not been so I plan to leave them to explore on their own while I find something new for me so I appreciate your solo stories.

Posted by
6552 posts

Thank you, Chani. We are starved for trip reports, and are certainly enjoying this one.

I do like this line:

The service was designed to give diners a leisurely meal.

What a great way to describe service in much of Europe! Even whan it isn't what you want...

Posted by
276 posts

Keep the updates coming, if you can! I love getting to travel vicariously through the updates and it's making me even more excited for my trip to Italy this summer!

Posted by
15794 posts

Thank you all for your kind words. The days are full and mostly fun. I am right in the middle of my trip and I feel like I've been here for ages and it's been wonderful - in spite of some small issues. . . . mostly due to my own deficiencies.

Back to where I left off -

I got off the bus from Fiesole and walked a block to catch (after just missing, of course) the bus to Piazzale Michelangelo for the view. Lovely, though hazy. Naturally I just missed the bus going back to the center. I got to the leather street vendors just before closing and found the 2 leather bags (one quite small, the other sort of medium size) that I'd had my eye on. The initial price for the two was 99E, I got him down to 62E. I probably could have shaved another 10E off, but I was too tired and it was getting late . . . The vendor I really wanted to go to was another 10 minutes' walk away and I figured he'd already shut down for the day (his starting prices were what I paid). After spending 53E for dinner tonight in Montefalco, I have no regrets about the bags.

I took the new tram to the airport. It's really easy and convenient if you're flying. If you're renting a car, it's not quite as simple. All the rental agents are off-site. There's a shuttle bus, but no signage I could see. Someone was letting passengers off and I asked him. He kindly put my bags in the car and drove me there. I had reserved a Fiat Panda (4-door and hatchback). It was the next-to-smallest model on the Europcar website. When I got to the car it was a smaller Fiat, only 2 doors and anything stored in the back was partially visible. I went back, the clerk said for them it was the same class of car, but if I really needed a 4-door, he would give me an Opel for the same price. So it all worked out . . . I drove the car from the parking space back to the rental office to ask them how to turn on the headlights (LOL). Then I couldn't for the life of me get the car into reverse (manual tranny)I It turns out there's a little button on the gear shift lever . . . . With some trepidation and one wrong turn and circling back, I got on the road to Lake Trasimeno/Montepulciano. My Garmin GPS was working well - thank goodness I brought it with me. I'd been back and forth for weeks on whether to take it or not. At the last minute, I decided better safe than sorry. It's a good thing too. When I'm using my phone on cellular data, Waze doesn't connect. When I'm in my hotel and using wifi, it works fine. Go figure.

That day, I managed to get to Montepulciano and find the recommended parking lot (#8) that was very near the free shuttle bus up to the centro (not running) and the elevator as well. And there were stairs. So I started up, hoping to get to the elevator I'd been assured was there. After about 3 flights, I saw the little sign - you know, 2 people in a box with up/down arrows - right there, next to a whole lot more stairs. Up I went and eventually got to an elevator that went up about 1 long flight. Then some more stairs but finally I was in the centro.. . . . with about 2-1/4 other people. I'd left all my research in my suitcase, so to perk up, I went to the winery right in front of me for wine, cheese and olive oil tasting. I had an interesting, enjoyable visit with the two people working there. He was mid-20's originally from Ukraine but in Italy for 16 years, still has family and friends there. The woman was mid-40s, moved to Italy from Albania at 18. So that's about all I saw of Montepulciano. I was anxious to get to Castiglione del Lago and get settled for the evening.

to be continued . . .

Posted by
6713 posts

Fun to read, I like the way you roll with the punches and turn lemons into limoncello. Looking forward to the next episode.

Edit -- Someone who had been to Florence warned me about Stendahl Syndrome, a state of anxiety and exhaustion induced by over-exposure to massive quantities of great art, endemic among visitors to Florence. There's no vaccine and the only cure is to leave, at least temporarily. Don't know whether this occurs in other Italian cities, but I'd think Venice might be a candidate. ;-)

Posted by
6552 posts

Chani, I chuckled at your not being able to get the car into reverse. My husband and I both drive manuals, and a young mechanic once told me I would have to wait for someone else to move my car because of my "millenials anti-theft device." It took me a few beats to figure out that he couldn't drive a stick.

I, too, love your attitude when things don't go as you expect or hope. Travel on!

Posted by
15794 posts

I got the parking experiences mixed up between Montepulciano and Spello. Spello had the non-bus and lots of stairs with a short elevator ride in the middle. Montepulciano was the bad/good parking story. I found Lot 8 after driving round and round. Then it was a not difficult walk uphill to the centro. But I didn't pay enough attention on exactly how I walked from the car. On the way down, I saw a sign that pointed down to Lots 7 and 8. I walked and walked and got to Lot 7, no 8, no signage, nada. I began asking all the passing cars. 2 or 3 stopped but had no idea. Then a true angelo stopped, looked on his phone and told me to hop in, he'd take me there. It was nearly a kilometer away and back up the hill.

In between Montepulciano and Spello, I spent the night in Castiglione del Lago on Lago Trasimeno. I got a glimpse of the lake at sunset (nice, but conditions weren't favorable). Then I cruised the "main drag" (very pretty) from one end to the other looking for dinner. The place that most appealed to me was full up inside and it was too cold to eat al fresco. I finally chose another place that had a good menu (I don't eat meat - hard restriction in the heart of Italy). At 7.30 the place was completely empty except for a couple of staff. I cheekily asked if the place was good since no one was eating there. Well, I was just too early. People started arriving closer to 8. By the time I left there wasn't an empty table. I started with a cheese board and a red vino nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (bottle - they didn't have wine by the glass but this bottle was 20E - not nearly the cheapest on the list). The cheese came with an onion jam (I absolutely need to get a recipe - it was divine) and a surprisingly tasty pumpkin jam. Then came a plate of strangozzi (a local pasta - looks like a plate of big fat worms) liberally doused with grated pecorino and black pepper. I took the leftovers - half the cheese and 2/3 of the wine - home with me. That along with leftover cheese from the wine tasting in Montepulciano was my dinner one night in Montefalco. Good grief, I've become a foodie 🤣

The next day was Spello. I started at the Villa dei Mosaici, excavations discovered the remains of a Byzantine Roman villa. They obviously spent a lot of money building a large modern building/museum over the entire excavation. If you've seen mosaic floors elsewhere, you can skip this, unless you are a real fan of mosaic floors. It's well-preserved and interesting, but I've seen much more impressive ones in other places, including Istanbul and several back home in Israel, and of course in other places in Italy., espcially the Villa Romano in Sicily. Spello's old city is really lovely. I started where the stairs took me, pretty much in the middle. I started by walking uphill (really UPhill) to the Belvedere Cappuccini (viewpoint). I took lots of photos, partly as an excuse to catch my breath along the way and partly because it was all so pretty, narrow up or down twisty alleyways with flower boxes everywhere. Then back down to the center for lunch which I'd earned by my "hike." LOL Then downhill and the "impressive" church (that's what the guide book said) of Santa Maria Maggiore was still closed for the afternoon break. Along with the sangiovese wines and the pecorino cheeses, the local delicacy is truffles. So I bought a pair of small bags of potato chips (one each white truffles and black truffles) to eat with the leftover cheese and wine. The low end of the route is the lovely triple arch gate with a fountain. I retraced my steps to the church which was now open "to visitors" per the posted hours, but there was a mass so I didn't get to see the "impressive" building. If you go, be sure to PM me and let me know if I need to go back :-)

I had no trouble finding my car. I took pictures every 3 feet on my way up so I'd know how to get back. I'm doing that all the time now.

Spoletto, Perugia, Arezzo are all behind me.

Posted by
15794 posts

Tomorrow Assisi. More to follow.

Last quick note. On the way back to the car in Arezzo today, I passed a shop selling frozen yogurt, which I learned to love in LA. I chose frutti di bosco (berries) and Sicilian pistachio. They were both really really good - truly better than gelato. 2E for a small cup, the equivalent of 2 scoops. Since the exquisite peanut butter gelato from Suso in Venezia, "ordinary" gelato doesn't do it for me any more.

Posted by
2555 posts

Chani, my husband and I are chuckling at your mishap trying to get the gear shift in reverse. We rented a car in Marseilles and drove out of the lot on the way to Cassis. I asked my husband if he was sufficiently familiar with the car and he insisted that he was. We got to a tollbooth in the middle of nowhere with no attendants. There were only two toll gates. Unfortunately we drove into the one that wouldn’t accept our credit card. We needed to reverse and get into the cash lane. My husband tried to get the car in reverse to no avail. Other cars came up behind us and had to reverse and go into the other toll lane because we had the emergency flashers on until my husband figured out how to get the car into reverse. Phew! Stressful.

Posted by
106 posts

Chani, what a great adventure you are having! I have really enjoyed your updates and they are getting me more excited for my visit in a few weeks. You really have a wonderful narration style.

Looking forward to hearing more of your adventures - Thanks

Posted by
15794 posts

I've lost the plot. Where was I? When was I? It's my 4th night in Perugia. Tomorrow morning I leave Umbria behind for 2 nights in Greve in Chianti.

I do remember getting to Perugia, after some yelling at the Garmin which is useless, he just keeps telling me to go back to the start and take HIS way, in his stoic British voice. But what to do when he says go left but the sign says right? Or worse, when Google maps on my phone says right, Garmin says left and there is no sign. Garmin likes to take terrible backroads. He can't distinguish between a one lane (but two-way) road through villages and a well-paved 2 lane road that uses another km or 2 but takes less time, grrrrr. I've learned that part of the problem is the way Italians have designed their limited access roads. The entrances to go, say north and south, are about 3 feet apart and both left turns, so Garmin/Google says go left NOW and then I end up going in the wrong direction for 5 minutes before I can get off and get back on in the other direction. City streets are as bad. And of course, everyone else on the road knows exactly where they are going and at 50 kph which doesn't give me any time. Somehow driving in Sicily was much easier and I didn't have GPS. LOL

I got to Perugia well before noon from Montefalco and was more than happy to park the car for the day and walk around the historic center. The only low was that the art museum (said to be Umbria's finest) is closed for major renovations to its permanent collection. It was warm and sunny and a joy to walk around (and not fight with Garmin).

Then next day was the last day of good weather so I drove to Arezzo (meant to be a stop tomorrow on the way to Greve). The main roads through the area are undergoing major repairs. They are 4 lane divided highways but for large chunks the 2 lanes in one direction are closed off and the other 2 lanes are two-way, so even Italian drivers are slowing down from 110 kph to around 80-90 and often much less. Slow going. I missed the cathedral because my timing was off again. I got there in the middle of the afternoon closure. There is a lovely large park on the way from the cathedral to the main piazza. A few kids were out playing and a couple of dogs were getting their exercise, very pleasant and it abuts the city wall with a lovely view of the countryside. The weather was so nice, I decided to eat at one of the overpriced restaurants in the piazza to sit in the sun and enjoy the view. On the way back to the train station (convenient parking) I went into the Basilica of San Francesco to see the beautiful frescoes - reason enough to visit Arezzo - and then the frozen yogurt as well. Truly a good day for which I am very grateful since I don't know if I'll see the sun again until I get home.

With a poor weather forecast, I decided to go to Assisi yesterday. I spent a day and a half there several years ago in sunshine so I didn't mind a cloudy day, since I mostly wanted to revisit the Basilica, especially to see the Giotto frescoes. And it was a short drive, not much over 1/2 an hour (well, of course it was more thanks to Garmin and Google). From the John Paul II parking lot (the signage to the lot isn't great and I really thought I was headed out of town till I got there). It's an easy uphill walk to the Basilica. When I left the fog began to settle in. In front of the church I watched the uppermost parts of Assisi melt away, then as I started to walk uphill to the center, I turned and watched the church disappear in the mists as well. Most of the shops and restaurants were closed. I went into the first open one I saw for a hot chocolate. I don't remember the last time I was as cold as in the Basilica. I swear it was 10 degrees colder than outside, which wasn't exactly warm.

And I'm running out of space again. Good thing too. It's late and tomorrow's another moving day.

Posted by
2152 posts

Chani…you just reminded me of when Google maps GPS had me swearing in the hills of Abruzzo! We came to a T on a dirt road ( which we shouldn’t have been on) and Google said out loud “ I can’t help you anymore!” So, we turned around and found the major road only to get to the tunnel 10 miles up the road to find that it was closed in the late afternoons for repairs caused by damage from the earthquake several years ago. We turned around again and found a cop at a gas station. He spoke English and helped with an open route through the mountains to get to Terni! What an adventure!

Posted by
15794 posts

Diane, thank you for that wonderful story. It made me laugh out loud. I'm wondering how long it took you before you could laugh at it yourself?

Well, the last few days have been rather a downer, so I won't write details as I don't want to relive them and I don't want to put anyone off visiting this area. If I'd had a navigator beside me driving would have been much much easier. If the weather had been better I'm sure I'd have gone more places and enjoyed myself more. Lots of rain and cold. The high today in Greve was 8C. Thank goodness for chianti 😵, especially when I check the weather forecast and see that it's in the 80's back home. My feet long to escape the prison of shoes and socks, to renew their love affair with their favorite sandals.

Tomorrow morning I return the car (yay 🤣) and take the train to Roma where I'm sure my mood will improve tremendously. First, it's not nearly as cold. Second, there's tons to do if it rains. Third, it's ROMA. I should be at my hotel just off Piazza Navona around 2 pm, then 3 full days before my flight home Wednesday night.

Posted by
106 posts

Chani, sorry the weather has been so poor for you. I have no doubt things will improve once in Roma for all the reasons you listed.

Posted by
141 posts

Oh Chani....What great posts! Thank you!

Posted by
10285 posts

Chani - I am so sorry the weather has been no fun in Tuscany - and that Garmin has been being rude !!! Your Venice and Florence visits sounded wonderful -- happy you will be in Rome tomorrow !!

I had to laugh about your needing to find the "button" to put the car in reverse. I think that must have been the same thing I had problems with in Slovenia some 20 years ago now. I could NOT get the car to go in reverse (I never had a problem driving a stick before) and got all the way from Ljubljana to Bohinj and then literally drove INTO a farmer's courtyard and slowly came to a rolling stop partway up a mound of some dirt that he had in the courtyard. His children looked at my dumbfounded and finally he came out - although we didn't speak any common languages, he finally figured out what my problem was, and showed me the little "collar" or whatever on the gear shift that one had to press simultaneously with moving the gear into reverse. Sheesh !!!!!

Love your writing and hope you will have a good time in Rome and an easy journey there.

Posted by
1592 posts

Chani --- I have read most of what you've so kindly written here since I came to the Italy forum, and if anybody "deserves" more cooperative weather and navigation systems, it is you. I hope Rome is just superb for you --- it was for us last December.

If it makes you feel any better about trying to navigate by yourself, my husband's been driving all around Italy for more than 20 years, speaks and reads Italian very well, and has as much fun driving in and around Italian cities like Naples and Rome and Palermo as if he's playing a video game, HOWEVER, I am almost always navigating for him. The one time he had to go get the car all by himself from its parking spot outside of Ostuni in Puglia and drive to the old center to pick up the rest of the family, he almost lost his mind and it took him forever. Also, even with me navigating, Google maps has deliberately sent us driving through a cow pasture on a dirt road and into a curved, narrow blind alley in a medieval town with no room to turn around, and not so easy to back out of either.

Posted by
106 posts

Chani, I have become a bit obsessed with reading your posts, and have been missing them terribly for the past few days.

I certainly hope your lack of recent updates is only because your are having an absolutely wonderful time in Roma!

Posted by
2152 posts

Chani,
Oh, we burst out laughing! It was hilarious. The darn system sent us to the right and to the left at that T! The third time at that, in the boonies intersection, is when we were told it could not help us. The best part was an old hound dog that lay in the road at that spot each time we passed. Our laughter made the poor thing move.

Posted by
10631 posts

Great trip report! I can relate to your comment “Tomorrow morning I return the car (yay 🤣)”, because I love to drive, but was never more relieved to get rid of a car than I was after driving for 9 days in Italy. We drove from Verona to Tuscany, stayed there 8 nights, then returned the car in Lecco at Lake Como. OMG, the narrow, curvy roads through the hills that were often wide enough for one car, but it was two way traffic, was truly frightening.

We just had a car rental In Colmar that I ran into the same problem with finding reverse. The car was in a multilevel parking garage near the train station/rental office and I had to reverse out of the parking space. I hadn’t driven a stick since 2014 and was nervous about it. Hubby finally figured out the ring thing that had to be lifted up and once I pulled out of the parking space I had to go down 5 levels in a tight circle to get to the ground level to get out of the garage. I saw all the scrape marks on the walls and was thinking how happy I was that I got zero deductible insurance, but thankfully I didn’t have a problem driving the car at any point. Phew!

My mantra for traveling, especially this year is to stay flexible.