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Area Recommendation for Going Slow :)

I'm looking for recommendations for a region to base in that caters to some unique needs. I have long COVID, and this will be my first international trip in nearly 5 years. My partner and I have both been to Florence and Rome in the past, so we're looking to go somewhere new, and I recognize I'm asking for a unicorn here so bear with me.

I'm ready to walk a good amount, but cannot go punishingly long. We'd like to be in a food-centric region (interested in farms, making-of, etc), however we're both gluten free -- something that seems easy in Italy generally but perhaps is more difficult the more rural you go? I'd also like to be near the sea and go swimming at least for part of the trip. This is especially imperative if it will be super hot as I can't handle heat that well. Ideally, we could rent an Airbnb and get around easily on foot, and of course, crowds to a minimum would be excellent. Charming towns, beautiful architecture, and stellar seafood would be great additions.

We're looking at June for a last minute trip if we can swing it; otherwise, July which I know will likely be scorching... Any advice appreciated!

Posted by
597 posts

Not clear if you're only looking at Italy locations - since that's where you posted.

If not, take a look at the Azores. There's a lot of information from Carl, a part time local, in the Portugal section on this Forum. We went to Ponta Delgada for a week last November and were absolutely charmed. You're on an island so the fish is totally fresh and there's a wide variety. You can tour their local pineapple plantations and vineyards. The fresh cheese is excellent too. We loved the architecture, the people, the hot springs, and the lush greenery. We bought a Travelzoo package for Azores Getaways, which included a rental car, hotel, and flights from the east coast. I hope you find a good place, wherever you go, and enjoy getting back out in the world. Let us know how it goes, if you are willing.

Posted by
19030 posts

If you insist on staying in Italy, then I would suggest Sardinia.

If you are willing to go somewhere besides Italy, my suggestion is the Greek Islands.

Posted by
1189 posts

I know I'm a one-trick pony, but why not Abruzzo? Adriatic Sea for swimming with many beach clubs for lounging and eating good fish. Mountains with beautiful towns and good food. Gluten free is not an issue, the best pizzeria in my tiny little town make gluten-free pizza and there is almost always a gluten-free pasta option at restaurants. For staying near the sea, a car isn't desperately needed but you would need one in the mountains. The roads are generally well-paved and signed, without the crazy traffic and frenetic drivers of the north. Not too crowded even in July, though it can get hot at lower altitudes. Should be plenty of lodging available even now, though on the beach will be trickier.

Posted by
6827 posts

Would you be open to car rental? Unless your trip is long, any of these places could be visited without a car but would be much easier with one.
Places where sea and seafood have been a big focus for me:
Cilento area — check flights to Naples
Marche — check flights to Ancona
Southern Tuscany — check flights to Rome and Pisa
Puglia — check flights to Bari and Brindisi

The flight is the most grueling part of travel for me, so maybe perusing those flight schedules might lead to something.

Posted by
982 posts

The Emilia Romagna region might work. There are many walkable towns that are not hilly, and easy day trips depending where you are based. The whole region is food-centric but especially Bologna and Parma. Many on this forum recommend food tours such as Italian Days that visit places where parmesan cheese and balsamic vinegar are produced. In addition to the amazing mosaics in Ravenna, there are nearby beaches (I have not been to any of the beaches) and also beaches in or near Rimini. There are gluten free options in Bologna and probably elsewhere. This northern Italy region should be a little cooler than the south.

Posted by
2055 posts

I was going to suggest something like @CD in DC mentioned. Modena has a nice old town section and is a good walkable city. It is also in the center of Emilia Romagna which features many types of specific food production. It is the capital of balsamic vinegar production, of course, Reggio Emilia for cheese and Parma for the ham production. Bologna - the collecting place for all these things is 30 minutes away by train. It also has the Albini marketplace to visit as well as good restaurants - including the 3 Michelin starred Osteria Francescana if that interests you.

This brings up an important point - are you restricted to public transportation or are you willing to rent a car for part of your trip? Farm visits are technically difficult without transportation since they are rural by definition. If you are stucking with public transportation you can arrange tours out to cheese and balsamic production places but getting there on your own without a car will be a challenge. Areas that want to highlight food production - like Modena and Bologna - make this easier because food farm tours are part of their tourist appeal.

Bologna is the center of all these things and the center is walkable and is the center of public transportation, but I don't know if a big city is something you would consider as a place "go slow". Populationwise Parma isn't all that much bigger than Modena but it feels like a much bigger, more serious city than Modena which as a smaller town feel in the old center at least.

Rimini area on the Adriatic coast is the most easily reachable beach area. The coast of northern Tuscany and southern Liguria - Viareggio and La Spezia specifically - can be reached by train but it takes longer because of the mountains and train changes, but is doable if you are willing to spend twice as long.

Two other slightly less specific suggestions are the Lucca and Salerno areas.
Lucca is a great "go slow" food town and has easy 17 minute access to Viareggio beaches on the train and is rural enough that walking and nature are pretty close. They have the usual Tuscan productions like wine and olive oil and some organic farms but agriculture is not part of their attraction so you'll need to work harder to put together tours or visits.
Salerno is a beach city itself and has ferry and bus access to the Amalfi coast as well as access to Naples (the opposite of going slow), Pompeii, Paestum and the nearby Buffalo milk production farms. The area around Naples is highly agricultural and produces things like the famous tomatoes raised in volcanic soil but you would need to investigate local tours or access beyond the buffalo farms. Salerno offers both sea and land based foods unlike many port cities in Italy.

Hope that helps, have a great slow trip,
=Tod

Posted by
8734 posts

In ER, I like Reggio Emilia. It’s not famous like Bologna, but calm while having enough to do, and a convenient train station. I think you need serious air conditioning at night. I’m not impressed by most Euro beaches. (East coast US native.)

Posted by
3045 posts

hey hey eabertch
welcome aboard the forum. so many places/regions to check out.
how many nights/days are you planning, where you flying from and just 2 of you? many last minute trips are asked here especially during high high season & HOT which you know. my opinion is staying in northern italy hoping "cooler", away from the many bigger cities which will be overwhelmed/overcrowded. i think many travelers will be surprised with the crowds so just go with the flow.
staying near water/lake may bring some relief but not lake como and nowdays lake garda is mentioned alot. several years ago we stayed in bardolino for annual wine festival sept/oct which was nice, but crowds/tours (bus, private, taxi) are finding their way there (sirmione & malcesine) along with bumper to bumper traffic. pick somewhere new.
discovernorthernitaly.com (10 most beautiful towns on the lake)
italia.it (lake maggiore) many here like stresa and even other towns around the lake, hope it stays quiet and not bombarded by social media/instagram been there done that with a photo-op.
italyreview.com (10 places to visit on lake maggiore)
centovalli.com (scenic train ride, lago maggiore express "boat & train rides to locarno & domodossala".
locarno "city of flowers" has camellia park/gardens, have lunch/roam around and back by boat/train
booking.com (lake maggiore)
left side has filters, click apartments, A/C, lake view, balcony, elevator/lift, cancellation policies, check-in and check-out times
airbnb.com
hoping you find that "unicorn" and enjoy your trip. have some gelato and a glass of wine
PS: a fellow poster here, Karen, monterey county lived in verbania about 4 years ago. look up barley and his grand adventures in the forum, any question send her a private message, i'm hoping she won't mind.
aloha

Posted by
3 posts

I am so grateful for all of your thoughtful replies! My apologies for the delayed response.

We are definitely open to renting a car if it makes things more accessible. It's just the two of us, and we'd probably be looking at around 10 days with travel from the US.

Posted by
2629 posts

Another thing that is a benefit of the Azores is that the flight to get there is not as long.

Posted by
762 posts

Briefly, I second Sardina. Meets a lot of your criteria. And it is beautiful.

Posted by
45 posts

I would say Sicily, if you can make it work for June - so many options of where to base! Maybe Cefalu or Castellamare de Golfo - both have spectacular beaches and some good hiking. If not, I think southern Portugal would be amazing for you and much more comfortable in July than most of Italy. I also have health concerns and like slower travel and found the Algarve incredibly healing and beautiful. In Lagos or Tariva (or maybe 5 and 5 nights?) you would find many opportunities for coastal walks/hikes, beautiful beaches, amazing food, an is an emphasis on wellness (lots of yoga, massage etc. available), and gluten free and other dietary restrictions are well catered for.

Posted by
9 posts

You may want to look at Liguria, especially Sestri Levante, Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, or Levanto. It gives you sea, swimming, seafood, charming towns, good train connections, and generally shorter/easier walks than hill-town regions. It is also a strong food region — pesto, olive oil, focaccia, seafood — though for gluten-free you’ll want to research restaurants ahead and use the AIC gluten-free app/resources, for example Gluten Free Guide (https://www.mygfguide.com/gluten-free-italy/)
Another good option is Le Marche around the Conero coast — places like Sirolo/Numana/Portonovo for beaches and seafood, with beautiful towns inland — but it usually works better with a car. Liguria is easier without one.
My “local-style” advice: choose a comfortable base, book lodging with strong air conditioning and elevator if needed, stay close to the sea/train station, reserve gluten-free friendly restaurants in advance, and plan only one main activity per day, after long COVID, leave room to rest.

Posted by
542 posts

If you’re open to renting a car, we loved spending a week at the Ada Nada Agriturismo outside of Alba. Lots of places to drive, amazing food on par with Emilia Romagna, wines on par with Tuscany, and beautiful scenery. Enjoyed days in Asti, some hill towns (not recommended for you), Alba, and driving around to regional enoteccas and just getting lost.

We tacked a couple days on in Val D’Aosta, in Cogne, specifically, and I tasted honeys of the gods, a Fontina that has ruined me for all others, a local stew that I still think about nearly 10 years on, and just beautiful clean air in the mountains. And we barely climbed anything there.