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Anniversary trip to Italy (Itinerary and train advice)?

This is our anniversary and I am trying to plan the perfect trip for my lovely wife of 30 years.
We have been to Rome, Florence, Amalfi, Sicily, and some northern cities on a bus tour years ago.
These are the cities (below) we were hoping to see this time (mostly from Rick Steve's suggested itinerary).
Could you help us decide:

1) Does this make sense? Advice? Towns to stay in? Hotels?

2) How to best arrange trains (can you ever hire a personal driver/cab at these distances)? The trains take twice as long as a car - but my wife refuses to get our own car :))

3) Special things we should do a each place? Restaurants? Things not mentioned in the guide books?

1) SUN FLY TO ROME SEPT 18, 2016

2) MON ROME

3) TUES ROME

4) WEDS ROME

TRAIN 4.5 HOURS
5) THURS ASSISI

6) FRI ASSISI

7) SAT ASSISI

TRAIN 7.5 HOURS
8) SUN CINQUE TERRE

9) MON CINQUE TERRE

10) TUES CINQUE TERRE

TRAIN 6 HOURS
11) WEDS LAKE COMO

12) THURS LAKE COMO

13) FRI LAKE COMO

TRAIN 4.5 HOURS
14) SAT VENICE

15) SUN VENICE

16) MON VENICE

17) TUES FLY HOME

Posted by
11852 posts

Not sure where you got your train times. Rome to Assisi is 2 - 2.5 hours based on next Thursday schedule which is as far out as you can plan for a Regionale. Assisi to Vernazza (for example) is just under 6 hours. Check your times on Trenitalia.com for the best estimates. The only train you can arrange very far in advance will be your transfer from Lago di Como to Venice through Milano. Milano to Venice is on a high-speed train bookable up to 120 days in advance.

A personal driver for such distances would be very expensive. We just relax and enjoy the trains.

Hotels? Start with Rick's guide or Booking.com. We loved Ca'Angeli in Venice recently.

EDIT: Thanks to another poster see here I learned you can book regionale trains up to 120 days in advance. We seldom take them, but it's nice to know.

Posted by
15799 posts

My suggestions:

Fly into Venice and out of Rome. Venice is the best place to get over jetlag while you just soak up the atmosphere, while Rome is a bustling big city. If you have a morning flight home, it's much easier to get to the airport from Rome than from Venice. You have 2.5 days in Rome - that's not a lot, even less if it's at the start of your trip because the first day or two, most people aren't at their best or most efficient, getting over the jetlag and catching up on sleep. And if you land in Rome on Monday, then you only have one full day in Rome.

Spend a night or two in Orvieto between Assisi and Rome.

If you want to avoid long journeys, skip the CT. . . . or Assisi. There are lots of other great places.

Posted by
1 posts

Assisi is wonderful but really only takes one day to see everything. If you rented a car while staying in Assisi, you could visit many of the lovely, nearby hill towns. I second the suggestion for a night's stay in Orvieto on the trip from Rome to Assisi.

My recommendation for a hotel in Rome: Hotel Napoleon. The only place I stay in Rome. Family owned, friendly English speaking staff, clean, charming, and quiet rooms, and a huge, delicious American / European breakfast. There is a metro stop right outside the hotel which makes it convenient to get around Rome.

Posted by
32405 posts

hard,

I'd have to give some thought to answer all your questions, but a few that come to mind....

  • ROME - you'll have to give some thought on what part of the city to stay in. I like the Termini area as it's so convenient for transportation. Trastevere is also really nice.
  • CINQUE TERRE - you'll have to decide with if the five towns you want to stay in. Each of us has a preference, and I like to stay in Monterosso. It's the largest of the five, has the greatest number of hotels, restaurants and other amenities, and also the best beaches. My favourite hotel there is Hotel Villa Steno but for an anniversary you could also consider Hotel Porto Roca as they have a pool and gorgeous views.
  • LAKE COMO - most here (me included) like to stay in the small town of Varenna, which is on the east shore of the mid-lake area. It's a beautiful small town and has a nice promenade that goes along the lake front from the town to the ferry dock. It's about an hour from Milan by train so very easy to get to. You might try Albergo Milano, Villa Cipressi or Hotel Royal Victoria.
  • VENICE - I found it was really crowded when I was there in September, but it's still good for a few days. One of the favourite hotels there is Pensione Guerrato.

If you haven't travelled much by train in Italy, there are some potentially expensive "caveats" to be aware of (that's also true of rental cars). If you need more information, post another note.

"The trains take twice as long as a car"

That's not exactly true. The high speed trains travel at up to 300 km/h, so they're much faster than by car. Getting to all the places you listed is very easy by train, so I don't see any need to rent a car or a private car service.

Posted by
907 posts

Into Venice and out of Rome is a good alternative to your plan. I don't agree that getting to the airport is "easier" in Rome, but it might be less expensive. You can water taxi to the Venice airport (a fun ride in and of itself) in less than an hour from you hotel for around 100 euro.

The complicating thing here is 5 Terre. It is a lot of awkward travel and time consuming. There is a lot to see between Rome and Lake Como. Consider Bologna, Parma, Perugia, Siena, and others on the route. If CT is a must then consider spending a night or two in Portovenere (hard to get to by bus) and see 5 Terre by boat instead of train. It is a delightful way to go.

It won't take you long to see Assisi. Nice town for sure but we saw it all in half a day by car. Verona is on the way from Lake Como to Venice (or vice versa if you go that way).

I know you said no car, but to truly see some of Umbria and Tuscany a car is a pretty good way to go, flexible and quick compared to other travel methods.

Whatever you decide it is going to be a fantastic trip for the two of you, have fun.

Posted by
1246 posts

I also would do what others have suggested---fly into Venice and out of Rome. Not only is Venice a good place to get over jet lag, but, if you fly out of there, most flights are very early AM, which means you have to get up even earlier to get to the airport (not a quick trip). And in Sept. going from north to south means you should have warmer weather.

Posted by
26 posts

The advice that you received about logistics sounds good. I was just going to add some tidbits about what to see/do in some of your locations.

First- good choices! My husband and I have been to Rome several times. We found that staying a little outside of the hussle and bustle was better. Central Rome can be very loud, hot and dirty (depending on time of year). We absolutely loved staying at the Hotel Via San Pio near the Testaccio district. It was more residential and each morning we woke up to the birds chirping in the trees. There are 2 hotels on this block under the same name. One is much more reasonable that the other, so ask about both. It was a short bus ride to everything you want to see. I would also not miss going out to the Roman countryside to the Apian Way. There are lovely old churches and catacombs there. It really made our our last visit wonderful to experience the countryside.

We also went to Assisi and LOVED it. I don't have a good recommendation of a hotel, as ours was just average. It is a lovely town though, and so worth the visit. The cathedral there was my ultimate favorite of the trip; even over Rome and Paris. It is a must see.

Cinque Terre is also a great choice. The best thing we did there was NOT pre-book a room. If you're a bit adventurous, I'd recommend staying in Vernazza. Walk down into the main town area, near the water and look for notices in the local homes saying "room for rent". The locals rely on that income and the choices are lovely. Push the buzzer and wait! We were immediately wisked away by a competing neighbor, haha. We ended up staying in a wonderful private room a few flights up in a walk up with a beautiful huge window over looking the ocean for only approx. $90 euros. Get up early in the morning, when the town is still asleep except for the restaurant owners starting to hose down the sidewalks from the night before. Cats will be out looking for dropped goodies. Walk up the hill from the train station and find "Five Pirates" (in Italian) cafe. You can catch the first batches of pastries coming out of the oven. Yum! Just don't ask for eggs or American coffee! I had a lovely chat with the owner there, and he hated tourists who did not respect his culture!

RE: Venice- I'll only say that you must visit the nearby islands. The water taxi is very easy to figure out. The islands are charming; especially Murano with the glass blowing...it's a Venician experience not to be missed. You can't go wrong in Venice. We're visiting there again this summer. I found a lovely whole apartment near St. Marks for only $130 on AirBNB. It's a great option to check out.

ENJOY!!!
-Lynn

Posted by
291 posts

I will leave overall advice on your itinerary to others but do have some thoughts on Assisi. I was there in May/June of 2014 and loved it! I think you will find plenty to occupy you for 2 full days. If you enjoy guided tours, I recommend Anne Robichaud. I took a 1/2 day city tour with her, and I thought she did a great job giving information on the history of the town and the sense of everyday life. The tour I took had only 5 people in the group.

If group tours are not your thing, I thought Rick's audio tour (both of the town and the basillica) were great. Easy to follow (once I found the starting point), he gives great "inside information" and takes you through the highlights of the town.

Posted by
8 posts

Wow, thanks so much - this is really helpful.

We are so grateful for your wisdom and experience!

Question:

If we skipped Cinque Terre this time and saw some towns on the train trip to Lake Como...
is there a way to determine which are on the train route (and have stops)?

I know Rick Steve's suggested Orvieto and Sienna.

Your answers are very helpful and we thank you (very, very, much).

Posted by
28487 posts

Bear with me; this is much easier to do than to write out.

This is the English-language Deutsche Bahn web site, by consensus an excellent source of rail info for all of Europe: http://www.deutschebahn.com/en/start-en.html . It's fairly forgiving if you use the English names of cities.

And here is the English-language Tren Italia web site, for Italy: http://www.trenitalia.com/tcom-en . Tren Italia requires you to use the Italian spelling for city names.

For this purpose, Tren Italia may be better; I'm not sure DB lists all the slow trains.

Enter origin and destination. Pick a date not too far in the future (so the regional trains are included among the options) that's the same day of the week as the September day you'll be traveling. Remember that the date must be entered in day-month-year order. Indicate one-way if there's a way to do that. Pick a time early in the day. Search.

Multiple options will come up. Some will be faster and more expensive than others. For maximum choices of stopping places (without transfers), choose one of the slow itinerary options. The faster trains make only a few stops. Now you need to expand the itinerary to see all the stops. On Tren Italia, you click on the little "i" in the lower right corner of the box listing the name and number of the train. You'll need to do that for each train that's part of the itinerary you're looking at.

To see stops on the DB website, click on the small red box with the right-facing arrow. That brings up the connections. Now click on the gray box with the arrow at the bottom of the list of connections. It's labeled "Show intermediate stops".

When I tested Rome-Como, TrenItalia initially gave me only options starting with the fast Freccia trains. If you want to see all the potential stops on the slow trains (which don't always take the same path as the fast trains, even aside from the fast trains' blowing through a lot of stations without stopping), click the "Regional trains" box just above the list of trains. Click all the "i's". That's a full list of all the stops on the interminable all-regionale trip from Rome to Como. At least for this route. The names I'm familiar with that pop up are: Civitavecchia, Tarquinia, Orbetello, Grosseto, Livorno, Pisa, Viareggio, Piacenza, Monza, Milano, Florence, Bologna. I've only been to the places in bold. No doubt others can comment on the desirability of visiting at least some of the others. I believe there are important Etruscan sites around Tarquinia.

If you take a map of Italy and sketch in lines through these places (there are two rail lines involved, the regionale veering west through Pisa while the faster trains hit Florence and Bologna instead), the places fairly near those line are probably reasonably accessible with a transfer, though the transfer might be to a bus.

Once you decide on a few places you might be interested in, go back to Tren Italia and search for those specific destinations to see how long the trips would be. I definitely love Orvieto, Siena and Assisi, but they are a bit off the main line. If you decide you must really minimize time on the train, there's a lot to see in highly-accessible Bologna, and it has a very, very large historic district. But it's a major city, certainly not a "cute Italian town", if that's what you're interested in on this trip. And of course Milan is also worthwhile but also very large.

Posted by
381 posts

Agenda is a list of great places to see. All of Italy so beautiful. We took a similar trip two years ago. I like our time in Rome as long as you understand that you can't see everything in that short time. We didn't in our first trip and stayed about the same amount of time and than saw the rest on the second trip. When you travel to Italy you have to almost have a plan to go back again to see more. When we went we started in Rome and upon leaving rented a car. We stayed in a central location in Tuscany and took a few day trips to hill towns. Assisi was one of them and well worth it. However, I day is all you really need there. We went for a day and stopped for dinner at another on the way back to our villa so we got to see another. So, I might go one day to Assisi and than make another day trip or two. Very hard to pass up Florence which is like a post card. Also, unless you are a beach person I think 2 days in Cinque Terre is plenty. We actually saw all 5 towns in one day. We drove their and than parked the car because the trains run frequently between the towns. Just don't expect them to be on time. But not a problem. So with one day in Assisi and one less day in the Cinque Terre that would leave you an extra day in Rome or a day to see Florence. I know plenty on here like the train travel. I am a big fan of rental a car as long as it isn't in the city. For example rent it when you are leaving room and park it if you wan to see Florence. But I have found the major roads between cities and places to be very good and driving you get to see a lot and gives you a chance to just pull over and take in a view. It would be easy to rent the car as you leave Rome and return it at the Venice airport before you visit the city. Roads are tricky in places like Amalfi coast and Como area but found most of the rest of roads to be very good.