Amalfi Coast or Cinque Terre?

I like the CT option because it fits into the rest of your itinerary without needing to travel 3 hours out of your way. The coastline of the Amalfi Coast ( AC) is similar to CT but more crowded. if you’ve seen Big Sur, it won’t be as stunning to you as, let’s say, someone from Kansas or Nebraska who’s never seen Big Sur or even Laguna Beach, Ca.
The other reason for CT is you can start one day in a place like Vernazza and end it in a place like Santa Margherita Ligure or Rapallo- all while passing by Riomaggiore and Portofino! That is a lot of effortless sightseeing by train and boat packed into one fantastic day!
Finally, there will be 14 Cruise Ships docking in Naples from 9/4/25-9/7/25 with more docking at Salerno. You can bet there will be throngs of passengers daytripping to the AC!
Have a great trip!

Under the circumstances, I'd suggest the Cinque Terre this time, primarily for two reasons....

1. Budget - everything tends to be more expensive on the Amalfi Coast.
2. Travel times - getting to Positano especially is going to take longer. There's no rail service there so you'd have to travel to Naples first and then south to Positano, with the last segment being by bus, boat or car service.

In early September, both of those locations will likely still be crowded, especially if there are cruise ships in the area.

Monterosso is a good choice for a location to stay in the Cinque Terre. It's the largest of the five towns and has the best beaches of the five. Note that some sections of the beach are pay-per-use and some are free. Your hotel can tell you which areas to go to.

For the hike on the Sentiero Azzurro between Monterosso and Vernazza, I found that it's easier to start in Monterosso as there's a steep uphill section at the beginning and it's easier to do that going uphill rather than down. Note that a Park Pass is required to hike those trails.

Car rental..... note that each driver will require the compulsory International Driver's Permit for driving in Italy. These are used in conjunction with your home D.L. and can be easily obtained at any AAA office for a small fee. You'll also have to be vigilant to avoid the ZTL (limited traffic) zones that exist in many towns in Italy. Each pass through one will result in hefty fines which you likely won't know about until several months after you return home. Travel by train from La Spezia is not difficult, although there are usually at least two changes on that route. The rail station in Siena is at the bottom of the hill so travellers need to take a bus or taxi up to the town.

You might find it helpful to have a look at the Rick Steves Italy guidebook, as will provide all the specific detail to plan your trip. The new edition will be released in Summer 2025.

Having been to both (easy for me to say), I'd choose neither! Since you are open to renting a car, I would look at somewhere on the Tuscan or Ligurian coast that will not be so crowded (and would have much better beaches for swimming). But, if you have your heart set on one of these, I would definitely choose CT because it maximizes your time much more. Congrats!

Having been to neither I would choose neither. Having read every Italy guide book, including Rick Steves Italy and Rosie Whithouse's Bradt guide Liguria, from cover to cover over the last three years, repeatedly, it is very clear that the way to enjoy CT and Vernazza is by staying the night but never the day. Other charming Ligurian coastal villages such as Camogli, Levanto and Santa Maria Ligure seem more than satisfactory.

AC seems ritzy, glitzy and chi-chi (RS-speak for posh), which can interfere severly with the relaxation factor. The Gargano peninsula seems to be the new alternative Amalfi. Go west, to all parts of Liguria west of CT.

Dump Naples. The authorities are very clear the volcano will erupt again, on top of 1 million Neapolitans. They have been offered to relocate but apparently there are no takers (according to Insight Guide Italy). There has recently been a volcano hazard on the island of Vulcano too. Sooner or later!

My personal opinion is also that your Cinque Terre option is preferable given your itinerary that concentrates on the part of Italy north of Rome.

Although, if I could get rid of most of humanity and enjoy the places without the hordes of people who go to both destinations nowadays, I would probably like the Amalfi Coast better.

If you decide to avoid the Cinque Terre altogether, and look into the Tuscan coast instead, as some have suggested, then I'd rent a car in Rome and head north along the coast to the Maremma area. The portion of the coast on the Mt. Argentario Peninsula and the nearby islands of Giglio or Giannutri, is the best in Tuscany and would make a perfect seaside getaway for your 3 nights on the coast. You can visit Giglio island on a day trip from Porto Santo Stefano (1 hr by ferry)

https://www.tuttomaremma.com/en/
https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/monte-argentario-southern-tuscany/index.html
https://argentario.it/en/
https://www.visittuscany.com/en/towns-and-villages/monte-argentario/
https://www.giglioinfo.it/en/

The first night we ever spent in Europe was in the Hotel Baia in Monterosso for our 25th anniversary trip many years ago! The hotel was pretty basic, but fine then. I’ve been to the Amalfi Coast more recently. I enjoyed them both. As others note, the Cinque Terre fits better into your itinerary.. Congratulations and have a wonderful time.

Having been in the AC recently, May 2023, I would avoid it , due to the massive amounts of people there, even in the shoulder seasons. There is no fast nor efficient transportation mode. Being in crowds isn't relaxing. The beaches are made of stones. On a recent Facebook group post, a traveler showed the lines- and hour wait- at all the ACferry harbors, and this is September. This is an area that has been ruined by its Instagram success. And if you're day tripping, you're coming right into the thick of the masses.
Sorry for the downer, but that was our experience. Good luck planning. Happy travels.

Better Amalfi Coast option. We did this in 2022.

Take the train from Rome but get off in Salerno. Short walk to ferry. Stay in Minori or some other smaller town. You will save loads of cash and crowds are minimal. Our villa rental was affordable and had steps to a private platform on the water.

Splurge for a private boat tour along the coast. Positano looks better from the water anyway.

If there is anything you want to see, hire a private driver on your last day. You can be taken to the train station in Naples and pit stop along the way. We did this from Minori to Pompeii and then were dropped at the Napes train station. We used Joe Banana Limos.

We did Cinque Terre in 2010, so maybe our tips are outdated. But that area was also exceptional. We were staying in Volterra and did a day trip, leaving a car at a train station farther north and just taking the train in. Deciding between the two regions would be like choosing between my children, I can't do it.

Hi, Thanks for this post as I am planning a similar trip for our 25th anni this September! We are flying to Milan to see friends and then considering a lake stay (Como or Maggiore), the Dolomites and ending with some beach time in CT. I'm wondering how you're planning on navigating the Dolomites. It seems far off the beaten track and I'm starting to think it may be too much to squeeze in. We only have 10 days. Input welcome!

Amalfi Coast Option.

Chiming in to say that the Cinque Terre was the biggest letdown I have ever experienced in Europe. The Amalfi Coast at least owns the fact that it is very congested and touristy. I have to say that the views along the Amalfi Coast, either from the water or from the land, are far superior to what you can experience on the Cinque Terre. Just my opinion.

If you go to Ravello, I highly recommend the views from the Terrace of Infinity at Villa Cimbrone.

Hello,
For the comment on Milan-Como-Dolomites-Cinque Terre, it does seem like a lot for 10 days. We want to spend 3 nights per location so we do not feel rushed the entire time. I would think two nights would be minimum, which would allow for 1 full uninterrupted day tourism in the area. Plus depending where you are coming from the first 1-2 days and the last day of the trip are pure travel/flying.

If your heart is set on seeing mountains/lakes and the coast I would suggest choosing the Dolomites or the lakes, not both. Getting to CT from the Dolomites would basically take up an entire day of travel.

Our trip has been finalized with this plan:
Day 1 - Fly from CA 4pm (time change lose a day)
Day 2 - (4 hr layover in Amsterdam leaving us 2 hours to bike ride near canals and get back to the airport) Arrive to Rome 7pm
Day 3, 4, 5 - Full tourism days Rome
Day 6 - Train to CT, afternoon tourism
Day 7, 8 - Full tourism days. Plan to enjoy towns/hikes in early AM and later evening when crowds thin. Make reservations for meals ahead of time. Spend middle of crowded/hot day at a reserved beach chair or napping.
Day 9 - Train to Florence, afternoon tourism
Day 10 - Full day tourism
Day 11 - Get rental car, half day Siena
Day 12, 13 - Full day tourism San Gimignano, Montepulciano, Val D’ Orcia focused
Day 14 - Drive to Cortina d’ Ampezzo, evening Lake Braies
Day 15 - Early morning hike, then drive to Ortisei
Day 16, 17, 18 - Full tourism days, Seceda, Alpe di Siusi, spa/towns day
Day 19 - Early drive to Venice, drop rental car in parking garage, hotel near parking garage, drop luggage, afternoon tourism in Venice
Day 20 - Taxi to Fly out of Venice to New York
Day 21 - New York to CA (prefer to break up flight worked best with credit card points free airfare)

Lodging looks like
Airplane - 1 night
Trastevere VRBO - 4 nights
Monterosso Hotel - 3 nights
Florence Airbnb - 2 nights
Siena Agriturismo/Airbnb - 3 nights
Cortina de Ampezzo Hotel - 1 night
Ortisei Hotel - 4 nights
Venice Hotel - 1 night
New York - 1 night
Return to CA

Gina, welcome to the Forum.

Your revised itinerary sounds like fun but this part makes me nervous:

(4 hr layover in Amsterdam leaving us 2 hours to bike ride near canals and get back to the airport)

If you're planning to go into the city to rent and ride bikes, plan on about 1 hour travel time, round trip. Yes, it could take less, but I'd take the more pessimistic view here. That doesn't allow for making your way around the airport, going through passport control when arriving, going through security again before departing...

Doable? Sure, probably. Maybe. I'd be stressing out too much to enjoy the excursion though.

I did a double take on the bike riding in A'dam, too. With a 4 hour layover, the numbers don't add up. Unless you will be at the very front of the plane, you could count yourself as very lucky to get off the plane, thru Passport Control, store your carry on luggage, and train into A'dam in an hour. Rent your bike, pedal around, and return the bike. Then train back to the airport to arrive 2 hours before your flight, retrieve your carry on bags, and clear security in time to reach your gate when boarding starts, which could be up to an hour before takeoff time. I really don't see all that happening in 4 hours.

Voting with Jane and CJean here on the biking plan during layover in Amsterdam. I really don't think you have a comfortable amount of time to get off the plane, into the city, to a rental company, find your way around, return the bike, return to the airport, get through security in the recommended time before your flight... I'd be too stressed about time to enjoy it too!

As well - and this personal observation from our time in the city - it can be no place for the fainthearted to navigate on two wheels, IMHO. There's no way to overestimate the density of bike traffic in parts of the city, or the experience it must take to master the finely-tuned dance it involves to manage it!
https://www.amsterdam-now.com/general-information/dutch-bicycle-rules/

My 2 cents:

We did Aug 19-23 in Cinque Terra in 2023. My wife and I with 2 kids ages 7 and 12. We also stayed in Monterosso, but in the old town.

We wanted what you mentioned, beach, lounging, some hiking, eating, drinking, wandering etc. It was perfect for that.

2 of the days, I got up early and did some hikes, for one of them. I took very early train to Cornigila and hiked back to Monterosso. The other I hiked to Vernazza and took a train back. Both days, I got a pretty early start (before 7am), to avoid crowds, and also the summer heat. The temps were bearable in the morning, the sun was still behind the mountains, but once it started peeking over them and you stepped into direct sunlight, it was much hotter. Very few people on the trails at that time of day, even in August so it was a real pleasure to go at my own (quick) pace, and be able to stop and take photos or reminisce about my previous solo visit in 2000. I took note of the trails later in the morning and afternoons and they looked jam packed. They are narrow in a most places, so I don't know how anyone manages to do an enjoyable hike at that time.

Back at hotel for breakfast with the family, and then we would head down to the beach and get some lounge chairs for a few hours (need to get those pretty early). One day we took a break from that and had a nice lunch at Ristorante Cigolini which is right on the beach (plus spritzes). One day we took the ferry to Vernazza, wandered around a little in the morning, and when it got hot, we went swimming off the pier on the water in front of town. This was the most fun in the water that we had. The water is crystal clear, and salty enough that you are very buoyant and don't have to work too hard to float or swim. We jumped the 4 or 5 feet down into the water (plenty deep) . Then later, climbed the stairs to the old stone fortress over the water and had an EXCELLENT lunch at Ristorante Belforte.

We did a siesta in our room in the AC to relax and refresh every day before heading out in the evening for a stroll and a great dinner (lots of great restaurants - Highly recommend Ristorante Ciak in the old town, sitting inside and watching the owner, Ciak, command the cooktop with his main assistant was really impressive). The evenings were very nice, not as crowded since the day trippers and cruisers have gone, but still bustling enough to feel alive and provide good people watching.

If we had one more day, we would have explored more of the towns, but we were nearing the end of a 2 week trip and we were quite happy taking it a bit easy on the beach or in the water for the most part.

Overall it was extremely enjoyable for all of us, and taking a break after lunch to get away from the heat and crowds was a plus.

Chiming in to say that the Cinque Terre was the biggest letdown I have ever experienced in Europe.

Agree. We loved La Spezia, though, which many RS posters seem not to like. Perhaps their experience was on cruises; we arrived by train into the old town and found it delightful.

I think the biggest problems with the CT relate to inadequate tourism infrastructure. Not enough train tracks, inadequate maintenance on train tracks and switching, inadequate harbor facilities. The towns themselves are undeniably pretty, but IMO the Amalfi Coast offers far more natural beauty and also just works better.

I appreciate the feedback on the Amsterdam layover. It’s 4.5 hours and we are near the front of the plane. I watched multiple YouTube videos before hand on travelers who have done this with a 4 hour break as the transportation to/from the airport is pretty simple and quick. Of course security will be the deciding factor. Riding bikes was more if there were the credit card swipe kind that you pick up off the side of the street for a bit. Jumping on an hour canal tour boat was also suggested/done. Even if we just have an hour to see the city a bit we are up for the experience.