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Amalfi Coast itinerary--

My husband and I are returning to Italy during the first two weeks of October, planning to follow Rick Steves' sourthern Italy tour in reverse. Is it better to take the train or a bus from Naples to Sorrento? (We travel light.) Our plan is to take the famous Amalfi drive by bus from Sorrento to Amalfi or Salerno. But, is it true that if you get off the bus, say in Positano, you may not be able to get back on? If that's the case, we'll take the bus directly to Amalfi or Salerno and take a ferry back to Positano. After a few hours in Positano, we'll take another ferry back to Sorrento. Is Salerno worth seeing? We'd really like to stay in Positano, but that would mean bringing luggage with us on the bus...impossible, I'm sure. After Sorrento, we'll rent a car, head for Paestum and follow the rest of Rick's tour to Matera, Vieste, and then back to Rome. Any suggestions on places to stay or eat would be welcome! I have Rick's book, but love hearing first hand experiences!

Posted by
32320 posts

Lynette, Your plan looks good. If you want to stay in Positano, I don't see a problem travelling by Bus from Sorrento, even with luggage. Larger items go in the hold underneath the Bus, and you keep "carry on" items with you in the coach. As I recall, the Buses park outside of town, and Shuttles take passengers to various Hotels. Hotels will depend on your budget, but you could have a look at Hotel Savoie in Positano, Hotel Sassi in Matera and Hotel Seggio in Vieste (be sure to watch the video on their website). One point to note about Vieste, is that you'll have to park in a lot outside the town, and then walk to the Hotel. The Hotel may offer a shuttle to transport your luggage, but you'll have to check with them. For places to eat, there's an awesome restaurant down the stairs from the Hotel in Matera, but I'd have to dig through my notes to find the name. The Hotel should be able to provide information. Happy travels!

Posted by
70 posts

Thanks for your reply, Ken. We are now having second thoughts about staying in Naples! Thinking of going straight to Sorrento. I know Rick's tour stays there for two nights, but it sounds so seedy!

Posted by
950 posts

I did Rick's Southern Italy Tour last year and want to speak in defense of Naples! Admittedly I was not particularly looking forward to the stay apart from the visit to the Archaeological Museum. But our leader, Nina, had lived in Naples and soon once we did the orientation tour I was fine with it! Even to the extent that I left the group as they were head to yet another church and walked back to the hotel myself - and felt quite comfortable. Yes it is a big, noisy, city, especially having come from rural southern Italy There is garbage piled in the streets, but only at the end of the day when the shops are closing and clearing up. As Rick says, there are parts of the city you should be wary of, but the main streets are safe - so many people and Police. Taxis are reasonable and if you want to see the "real" mosaics and statues from Pompeii you need to visit the museum. Most of what is at the site are reproductions. Rick's tour does not include Herculaneum - strongly suggest you consider it - an interesting site, much smaller and way less crowded than Pompeii and you truly feel that the people have just left and will be back any minute. Stayed at the Savoie in Positano, nice hotel and there is a good restaurant a short walk up the hill with great views if you can get a table outside. continued

Posted by
950 posts

continued.... Liked Sorrento, not so keen on the hotel we stayed at there (Ulysses Deluxe Hostel), I'd look for something near the main square - handier for the train station and buses if you are carrying luggage. At Matera we stayed at a lovely hotel in the Sassi (not the hotel Sassi Ken mentioned). I can't remember the name offhand, but PM me and I will dig it out or look on TripAdvisor - I am pretty sure it is there. It had the most beautiful swimming pool - like a grotto, lovely. Ken is right, great restaurant - close to the hotel. Beware this are though, there are many steep steps in to, around and out of the stassi! Viestre is a nice little town especially if you want access to some good hiking in a national forest. The Hotel Seggio mention by Ken is very pleasant though a bit quirky! Again listed in Trip Advisor. One suggestion, as you are going to Paestum look at the possibility of staying at one of the small hotel there, opposite the ruins. Oh, and I would pick Positano or Amalfi over Salerno! Have a great trip!

Posted by
11636 posts

In Sorrento, Hotel Antiche Mura is very nice and very convenient to Piazza Tasso and the train station.