Amalfi Coast

I just came from there on our first visit to Italy. We stayed in Sorrento and loved it. It is a lovely and lively tourist town. There are several ways to get to Sorrento from Naples. 1. The Circumvesuviana train. Only a few euros, but many people say it is horrible and full of unsavory people and pick pockets. 2. The "tourist train" which is the same train, but they hire guides to accompany you and you don't stop as many places. Still cheap, only 8 euros or something like that. This also gets you a free ride to your hotel when you arrive which is worth about 20 euros in Sorrento. 3. Ferry. But then you have to get yourself to the ferry terminal. 4. Private car for $70-$110.

Our hotel recommended the private car, but we opted for the tourist train. We had to wait longer for this and the Naples train station is very moldy, which is a health problem for me so I wasn't feeling well. The tourist train seems to be an idea they had 2 years ago which they have given up on. Yes, there was a guide, but the trains that the various websites all said were great and brand new 2 years ago are now very tired and dingy. Plus, you pass dozens of terrible looking train stations, some closed down, all full of grafitti. I was really wishing we had done the private car. You pass by the worst parts of town, and overall are wondering why you are going to Sorrento.

But here is the interesting thing. We later took the Circumvesuvius train from Sorrento to Pompeii, and it was totally fine. It only goes half way back to Naples, and we didn't have our luggage to deal with, but that just shows how a change of attitude affects your opinion of a thing. That part of the train trip was full of tourists going to Pompee, kids going to and from school, and locals. It was totally fine, and a fun experience being around the locals.

We did opt for a private car to Naples, organized by our hotel for $99. We had a great time talking with our driver all the way about Italian politics and economy.

Once we were in Sorrento we took the city bus to Positano and and back. Those were both nice. The city bus: we came at 12 and they said we'd be on the 12:30, but you have to stand in line until then, and it was hot... then it turned out the 12:30 filled up so we didn't go until 1. But that meant we were first in line so we took the seats right up front looking out the front, and that was great. Some other people on the bus were feeling sea sick but we didn't have that problem. There also are tons of tour busses you can jump on, even right at the bus station there are some for $18 RT; personally I would do that so you can avoid standing in line. Note: when you get to Positano, the driver just announces the town so we got off. But that isn't the stop you are supposed to get off at. It was a nice walk down, but better to get off past town!

We went to Capri by boat and that boat was terrible, too crowded and full of fumes, nowhere to sit outside so I felt awful when I got there. And where you land, we thought, wasn't pretty or charming at all. Just kind of junky looking and touristy. Apparently you have to take another boat tour to the other side of the island which is better. We just didn't feel like that more boat rides and tours, so went back home soon. That boat ride for some reason was much better.

I hope that helps!
Cindi

p.s. After reading blogs about the horrible amount of pickpockets in Italy, my husband wondered why we were coming here. I bought a slashproof and locking purse. We are careful and hold our things cross body, but never noticed any type of pick pockets. Of course you wouldn't notice good ones, right? :-) But we never heard anybody else had a problem, saw anybody we thought was trying to pickpocket someone ejse, etc. I don't know if these stories are made up or just blown out of proportion. So is the Circumvesuvius train from Naples really full of them? Who knows.

Are you all in relatively good shape? There are a lot of stairs along the Amalfi Coast. We actually loved that so that we could eat more pasta,but it's not for everyone. We always love to stay in Ravello. Villa San Cosma is wonderful , right next to the cooking school Mamma Agata. There are many steps down to Amalfi from there though. About half way down to Amalfi is a lovely B&B with 6 rooms called Punta Civita. Amazing views and hospitality.

If you all aren't in to the steps and walking I would recommend Amalfi town or Positano. You can catch the hydro foil to Capri from either Amalfi or Positano.

Note that Sorrento is not on the Amalfi Coast, albeit beautiful.

1. The "tourist train" which is the same train, but they hire guides to accompany you and you don't stop as many places. Still cheap, only 8 euros or something like that. This also gets you a free ride to your hotel when you arrive which is worth about 20 euros in Sorrento

Cindi, the 'tourist train' you're referencing is the seasonal (does not run from mid-October until mid-March) Circumvesuviana Campania Express. I've never seen any information stating that the service provides guides to accompany passengers, nor free transport from the station to area hotels. If you have the source of this information, could you share the link, please?

Hmm, I just googled and found info on various forums. If you find the page where you buy tickets, they mention the shuttle, there are maps and they ask you to check a box if you want one. But we were the only people on our train who asked for the shuttle.

We weren't expecting the guides but when we got to the station they told us to come back 15 minutes before the train was due to leave and the guides would be there. Tourists started collecting about 30 minutes before, then the 2-3 guides brought us onto the train right before it left. We made one stop where a few more people got on, but for the most part all the original tourists stayed on the train together until we arrived at Sorrento.

Mading--I would base in Sorrento for easier access to almost anything in the area for daytrips, but take a look at the stretch between Vietri sul Mare and Amalfi town as well. This early in the game, you might be able to snag something spectacular in Ravello, Minori, Maiori or Atrani, or even Salerno if you want something a little more urban. We stayed in Salerno's Old Town last year and it was great. But either side of the peninsula has unreal views.

Cindi, We're going to be taking the Rome-->Naples-->Sorrento route coming up in early March. We 'pack light, pack right' a la Rick, but will still each have a rolling bag with a smaller carry-on on top. With the Campania Express not in operation that time of year, from the Naples Centrale station we have the choice of: A) the Circumvesuviana (16 Euro); B) cab to the airport, then Curreri Viaggi bus (total cost ~ 50 Euro)--both to Sorrento station, or C) a B&B-supplied private driver from Centrale direct to the B&B in Sorrento (95 Euro).

We have been in sardine-like public transport in Europe before (the Paris Metro immediately comes to mind), but not with our bags too. That's the thing--these older trains are always jostling side-to-side, requiring one to hold onto a pole or a seat, making one vulnerable. And these pickpockets are pros--they know how to un-Velcro or unzip silently.

Although we will be using the Circumvesuviana for Sorrento to Naples, Ercolano or Pompei for daytrips during our stay, and will be utilizing Curreri Viaggi for Sorrento to Naples airport when we leave (22 Euro for two), considering we'll have our bags I think initially we'll bite the bullet for a private driver when we arrive at Naples Centrale from Rome. Probably will be money well spent.

Yes, there's the 'grittiness' in these towns as one goes farther south in Italy. Definitely not what you see in the tour books! But that's OK. I love southern Italy, the people are very warm & hospitable. You just have to be careful & vigilant in transit. I use a neck pouch for all valuables and have copies of everything on a flash drive.

Enjoy your planning!

Jay, I know you've traveled in Southern Italy before; I love it, too. Only a few cities (large ones like Napoli, Bari, Taranto) have a problem with crime (and non-violent crime against tourists in particular). The smaller cities and towns are relatively undiscovered by Americans.

mading57, you can easily take the ferry to some of the smaller coastal towns. I prefer the Amalfi Coast to Sorrento, but Sorrento has good connections for major sights (Ercolano, Pompei, Sorrento). If you can carve out a couple of nights in Salerno or Paestum, or a smaller Amalfi Coast town like Minori, it might be time well spent.