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Agriturismo northern or southern Tuscany for December

I’ll be in Tuscany this December 16-23 before heading down to Rome. I booked an agriturismo from 16-23 in Pienza, 20 minute drive to Montepulciano, where i heard from multiple people is lovely.

Being that it’s going to be winter and possibly inclement weather (I don’t know what the weather will be like in December), was it poor planning on my part to stay so far away from Florence? Should I have stayed somewhere between Florence and Siena (i.e. Greve) instead? In case it rains, I’d like to be within easy driving distance to places with plenty of activities.

If you think I should change my reservation, can you recommend agriturismos that produce their own wine, olive oil, and includes family-style dinners? Bonus if we can make our own food as well.

Posted by
2115 posts

We did a similar trip in December 2015 in almost the same time as your trip. We spent a week at Castello di Verrazzano, just outside Greve.

The weather was great when we were there. The highs were in the low 60s, so a light sweater was all we needed. The lows were mid-30s and we had frost a couple of mornings. It was mostly sunny, with only a couple of cloudy days. It did sprinkle part of one day, the afternoon we were in Florence. Although we had a car, we opted to take the bus to Florence. There's free parking at Greve and we took the 7:00 am commuter bus into town with plenty of time to catch our 8:30 Walks of Italy walking tour.

As you can see, Verrazzano is a wonderful winery. The accommodations are in a converted farmhouse halfway down the hill from the castle and restaurant. It was very clean and comfortable, but not fancy, which is what we prefer. For most of the stay, we were the only guests. Isabella and Marco spoiled us!

Breakfast is wonderful and Marco practiced his English with us and taught us some basic Italian. We became such good friends we shared Christmas presents! We signed up for a tour of the winery followed by a lunchtime food and wine tasting. It was a true Italian meal experience. We sat down at 1:00 and didn't finish until 3:30! The owner and his winemaker were sampling the latest vintage and asked us to sample and give our opinions. Luckily we wer able to wander the grounds after lunch and just return to our room, since after all the tasting we weren't in a position to drive!

We also had dinner there one night. They were hosting two Christmas parties, one for a local bank and another for the bus drivers for at tour company. The bus drivers were in a celebratory mood and invited us to join them. Only a few spoke English, but we had a great time with our new friends.

Greve is well located and Verrazzano served as a great base to explore Chianti and environs.

I hope this helps.

Posted by
14 posts

Doug Mac- I looked them up on booking.com and it seems they’re closed for the entire month of December ? It seems they closed for November as well.

Posted by
2115 posts

I looked them up on booking.com and it seems they’re closed for the entire month of December.

Darn. I wonder if Covid changed their policy. I'm not that surprised. As mentioned, we were the only guests, though we saw a number of people taking winery tours and having lunch. They also seemed to be busy with holiday parties.

Pienza is an hour from Siena and 1 1/2 hours from Florence. The abbey of Monte Oliveto di Maggiore is 45 minutes away. It would be a nice visit on a rainy afternoon. We spent an afternoon there, then had dinner at the small restaurant nearby. Our host did not speak English, but we were able to communicate well enough to order a delicious meal. We then returned that evening for vespers, which are celebrated in Gregorian chant. The monks were very kind. There was only one other outsider there, a lady from a nearby village. The monks invited us to sit with them and participate in the responses. It was a lovely experience. Rick Steves actually has a short clip filmed there in his holiday special.

Since Verrazzano is closed, I'm inclined to suggest you sit tight with the arrangements you've made.