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Advice/Suggestions about Rome Itinerary

My husband and I will be visiting Rome (hopefully) for the second time end of April 2027. I'm in my late 70s and have some minor mobility issues, though I hope to have some of that resolved before we go. We'll be staying at the Hotel Milton Roma which is very near the Manzoni subway station as well as several tram and bus stops. We hope to walk a lot, but we also enjoy using public transport.

I've been fine tuning the itinerary with ChatGPT, which has been very helpful. But I'd like to get the opinion of people who have recently been there "on the ground." Other than Vatican Museums and Borghese Gallery, we saw most of the big "must see" sites during our previous visits, so what remains or are returns are the definite priorities. Here's the plan ...

Thurs/Fri 4/22-23 Fly into Rome from Chicago via Turkish Airlines. Our arrival is scheduled for 6:25 PM, so the only plan for this evening is to check-in and eat dinner if Turkish Air doesn't feed us. We usually adjust pretty quickly to the time change with this late of an arrival.

Sat 4/24 Fairly easy jet lag day. Morning (via bus) to Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini. Rest stop, if need be, on the steps of Victor Emmanuel II Monument. Walk to Mamertine Prison then on to late lunch somewhere in Monti. Walk to afternoon visit at San Pietro in Vincoli. If tired at this point, go back to hotel for rest. If not, walk up to Colle Oppio for the view of the Colosseum/Forum area and then back to the hotel. If rested, public transport to a restaurant in Trastevere or to Momart for their aperitivo.

Sun 4/25 I didn't realize this was a national holiday when I booked our flights - Liberation Day with free tickets at several museums. We'll start the morning with worship at All Saints Anglican Church which has a sung English language mass at 10:30 AM. From there, we'll stroll Via Margutta and do lunch at Il Margutta vegetarian buffet restaurant. (These are repeats from our previous trip, but favorites.) From there, we'll visit the Borghese Gallery if we can snag free tickets. If not, option 2 is the Barberini (also a repeat) and option 3 is the Etruscan Museum in Villa Guilia. If we do the Barberini, I also want to see the Capuchin Crypt that is in the area nearby.

Monday 4/26 We know that the Vatican Museums had free entry the day before, but ChatGPT said the crowds would be overwhelming. So, we will probably book a paid Vatican tour for the first entry of the day. From there we will head across to revisit some of the churches with Caravaggio paintings - Santa Maria del Popolo, San Luigi dei Francesi and Sant ’Agostino (if not too tired). My husband would also like to see the tromp l’oeil ceiling/dome at Church of Saint Ignatius of Loyola. Interspersed with lots of sit-down times, I think this busy day is doable. If not, the Caravaggio churches can be adjusted or eliminated.

Tuesday 4/27 Our departure for Florence, where we can't check in until 3 PM. We hope to check our luggage at the hotel and visit San Clemente and St. John Lateran, if time, before our departure. Both are a short walking distance away.

You can probably tell from the post that we mainly seek out art. So, comments and advice? Thanks in advance.
Karen

Posted by
45 posts

I think your itinerary is viable and it sounds like you are able to pivot easily to other options, or skip entirely, if the conditions aren't amenable on the day. I personally avoid free ticket days because the crowds are indeed overwhelming, it makes sense to have a backup plan if it the queues look too bad. My honest opinion is that the Borghese Gallery was, BY FAR, the best art museum I went to in Venice/Florence/Rome - It's truly overwhelmingly beautiful - and for about 20EUR, it is absolutely worth buying an advance ticket to ensure you get to see it. Borghese is the #2 most in-demand Roman site, so there will be easily hundreds if not over a thousand people trying to get a free ticket. I wouldn't want to be one of them!
I notice that your itinerary is extremely church-focused, that may just be a personal religious choice which I completely respect. I found that visiting multiple churches in a day, especially one after the other over several days, they all kind of blended together and I couldn't appreciate their uniqueness as much. I might suggest something a bit different in between, like a unique experience, catacombs, aqueduct, Domus Aurea?
All of the hotels where I stayed in Italy were happy to store my luggage before/after check in or out. I stayed in Monti in Rome and there are some wonderful restaurants in that area around Via Urbana. I'm also vegetarian and had no problem finding excellent food.

Posted by
18348 posts

Hi Karen!
As your trip is art-focused. I think you're fine with having a number of churches on your list. If your Other Half is into tromp l’oeil ceilings, I'll suggest a peek at Gesù.
https://www.turismoroma.it/en/places/church-jesus
https://www.walksinrome.com/chiesa-del-gesu-rome.html

Galleria Borghese also has some pretty great tromp l’oeil decoration!

This:

Rest stop, if need be, on the steps of Victor Emmanuel II Monument.

Sitting on the steps is a big no-no and the attending guards will let you know it (they blow whistles to get your attention). As it's the site of Italy's Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, it's considered a sacred monument and sitting on/near it would be disrespectful. Best to rest somewhere else, OK? Sitting on the Spanish Steps is also a no-no but for preservation reasons.

San Clemente is currently undergoing restoration. Hopefully, some/much of the scaffolding will be down by late April but best to keep an eye on the progress? https://www.basilicasanclemente.com/eng/

Personally? I'd skip the Capuchin Crypt in favor of some other attractions. The 'bone church' really not very old (mid-18th century compared to the catacombs (2nd -5th centuries) which can be visited, nor is the history as interesting, IMHO. I'll say the same for the Mamertine: been there; done that. Other than for some archeological/Roman custom-of-incarceration value, it was something we could have skipped (no hard evidence some acclaimed prisoners were ever there.)

So you're going to Florence? Oh my, the ART....!!!!!! :O)

Posted by
2359 posts

Karen--

You're very organized in your planning, kind of borderline-obsessive like most of us. At our respective ages, especially doing new stuff, logistics are key, a game-changer if not researched. You want to be able to say, 'this is supposed to be here...', and it is actually there!

Rome is my favorite city on the planet, and actually we're spending 9 nights there in March, right before you. Very easy to chill or pack a lot in. I did not know there are still Caravaggios still in Rome--noted. I was there last year during the Caravaggio exhibit...and I missed it because I didn't want to go alone. That's the last time I make that mistake!

Things to put on your list:

Baths Of Diocletian / Roman Museum (across from Termini station)
St. Costantia, St. Agnese (up on Nomentana, towards north Rome---great 3rd Century mosaic)
Villa Torlonia (also Nomentana, Mussolini's wartime abode, was dilapidated in 2017, spiffed up for Jubilee last year)

Posted by
53 posts

Kate, thank you for this:

Sitting on the steps is a big no-no and the attending guards will let you know it (they blow whistles to get your attention).

ChatGPT led me wrong on that one.
And thanks to other posters, too, for the very helpful suggestions.
When I visited in 2018, Rome was my least favorite out of all our city visits. This time, I hope to make it much more enjoyable.

Posted by
53 posts

Jay--

We discovered the Caravaggios that were in churches by doing a walking tour with a company called Context Tours. I don't believe they offer the same one anymore, but you might be able to find something similar.

Posted by
53 posts

BIC--

I notice that your itinerary is extremely church-focused ...

My husband and I are both pastors, so visiting churches feels like a natural thing to do. Sometimes it's just about soaking up the spiritual ambience of the place. But more often than not, it's for the amazing art (paintings and sculpture) that can be seen for free or a small donation. And viewing multiple Caravaggio's (or Michealangelo's, Rafael's or Bernini's) one after the other in churches has helped us gain some very interesting insights into the artist and works. Similar to the art overload we sometimes get in a museum, I think, but with a bit of walking in between.

Posted by
1251 posts

In regard to Rome's public transportation and the metro system; we each used Apple Pay on our phones to "Tap & Go" at the turnstiles. Much easier than purchasing paper tickets at the machines.

Posted by
2359 posts

Kate--

I'm a Johnny-come-lately to the Caravaggio parade, not appreciating him until I saw the drama 'Ripley' (2024) on Netflix that featured his works. Much of the series was shot in Atrani down on the Amalfi Coast. In black & white, very stark and very good.

Posted by
53 posts

I agree with Kate about the Caravaggio's at Santa Maria del Popolo. For me, it's the juxtaposition of the two paintings that is genius. One man undergoing a conversion, the opposite one facing execution for his faith, and both embracing their experience with wide open arms. (Though Peter doesn't really have a choice since he's being nailed to a cross.) Still, even after almost ten years, I can't get the images out of my mind.

Posted by
53 posts

TravelBug79 - thanks so much for that information. Rome didn't have touch and go when we were there 9 years ago. At least, not that I remember. I thought we'd have to buy passes, but this will be much more convenient.

Posted by
941 posts

You have a full list of things that sound like they really appeal to what you want to see, which is always great. And I will say, every Caravaggio in Rome is on my to-do list for every visit, so I would never skip those! Seeing those paintings in situ, where they were meant to be and be seen, makes the experience very special.

If you're interested in mosaics, there are many churches that you could add. I'm too lazy to look them up right now, but you'll easily find them with a Google search. They include some of the oldest churches in Rome (Santa Costanza, mentioned above, and Santa Pudenianza), which may appeal to you, as well, just for their age. Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere has impressive mosaics. And, not mosaics, but I love the sculpture of Saint Cecilia at her church in Trastevere.

Posted by
18348 posts

Oooh yes, the mosaics! Yes to those listed by Lexma, and I'll add Santa Maria Maggiore to the list. San Clemente is already on your list so again, I'll cross fingers that much of the scaffolding in the upper church is gone by April next year and her glitter is on full display.

Crossing fingers too that you can manage to land tickets to Galleria Borghese. There's Michelangelo's David in Florence, and THEN there's Bernini's masterful capture of tension and concentration in the Borghese. That's "my" David. With luck you'll get to see both? 🤞
https://www.collezionegalleriaborghese.it/en/opere/david

Posted by
632 posts

If you like art, I wouldn’t skip the Borghese Gallery. There’s not a wasted second in there, the entire time you’re looking at great art. You don’t waste time walking through long corridors going from gallery to gallery or at galleries filled with minor works that may not interest you much and wear you out. You don’t get tired at the Borghese like you do at other museums.

Regarding churches, I don’t think San Giovanni in Laterano was mentioned, don’t miss it.

Posted by
18 posts

To give Donatello credit due, his David in the Bargello in Florence is a masterpiece.

Posted by
18348 posts

To give Donatello credit due, his David in the Bargello in Florence is
a masterpiece.

Hmmm, not a fan of that one, personally, but the good thing is that there are 4 most-acclaimed sculpted versions of the giant slayer to choose from! :O)