Advice & critique of our Sicily itinerary, please?

Given your time constraints, I don't see anything I would change. You seem to be making good use of private transfers and tours where they will pay off the most. It's great that you are able to fly directly to Trapani. Getting there is a bit of a slog if you don't have your own car.

I was underwhelmed by the Egadi islands. There are uncrowded sandy beaches--a rarity in Europe, but not so much in the US. Otherwise, it's a pleasant rural day out, but when you only have 12 days in Sicily... Note that you have to book the precise return you want when you buy your outbound ticket (or at least you did in 2015), and you cannot mix-and-match sailings from two different companies. To me it's just not a good payoff for the time the trip takes.

I think with an early start you can pull off Monreale and Cefalu in one day. I don't know the opening hours at Monreale, though. I took the public bus, which was fine, but I didn't have clear directions (no RS guidebook!) as to where on the large square that particular bus stopped. So I recommend doing careful research ahead of time and arriving early to be sure you are in position at the correct bus stop when the bus arrives.

Ragusa is a long trip from Siracusa and probably not in the cards, but Noto is only about half an hour away by train, and it's quite small. You might be able to squeeze it in.

Thanks, acraven! I have greatly enjoyed and carefully read your earlier posts about your Sicily trip, and taken careful notes! I had wondered about the Egadi islands; perhaps I'll let Dear Sister make that call, once we are there; if she wants to escape to a quieter island for a few hours, perhaps we'll go there. Otherwise... Also thanks for the note about Noto. Half an hour from Siracusa might make it doable for a half-day or so...and for the good advice about catching the bus back to Palermo from Monreale! I'm very aware that we will be making this trip only a few weeks - even days! - before the release of the Steves Sicily book. Aaauuggghh!! His careful help re. navigating public transportation throughout Europe is SOOO helpful! (Does anyone know how I might get my hands on a pre-release copy??!!)

We spent three weeks in Sicily this past October and loved it there. You basically have a very good plan in place.
A few things to mention... Monreale should be your Number 1 sight in Palermo. It is up a hill, 20 minutes. City buses can take you there. One of the world's most beautiful churches.
Do NOT miss Segesta! We have seen all the antiquities in Sicily and Segesta is smaller but stunning in it's location.
In the Trapani area, make you you order Fish Couscous at least once. North African influences make for a delicious dish, one of our favourite meals in Sicily.
Selinunte- Antiquities by the sea in a vast area. After buying your entrance tickets, you will see a sign for rides in a golf cart type vehicle ahead of you. DO this ride! It stops at the prime sites. We wouldn't have seen most of Selinunte without this ride. The drivers are young men, limited English, so it is transportation not a guided tour. They announce the stops.
Agrigento- we enjoyed Hotel Colleverde with views of the temples. Wonderful staff and an excellent dining room. Don't bother to go into the city of Agrigento which sits above the Temples and Hotel Colleverde. The Archeological Museum is excellent.
We really enjoyed our visit to the Valley of the Temples, and, if returning to Sicily, would go back there again. It is really an awesome sight to see.
Glad to see you have included Villa Romana Casale.
Siracusa- Visit the Greek Theatre and also, the Roman theatre which is not in as good condition as the Greek one. The Archeological Museum is nearby and very worthwhile. Well done. Take the little hop on hop on shuttle bus to both the Theaters and the museum, a flat rate, cheaper than a taxi and it gives you a view of the city of Siracusa too.
Ortigia- Don't take time away from Ortigia to go to Mt. Etna. Basically, don't take time away from Ortigia for anyplace else!( If you really want to, visit Noto and have lunch at Manna, amazing food.) We loved our week on Ortigia and would have liked a longer stay. Make sure you visit the outdoor food market, daily except Sunday. A nice restaurant, pretty setting, reasonable with good food and service, is Locanda Del Collegio, on Via del Collegio, not far from the Duomo Square. Avoid the highly touted Don Camillo where we had a terrible experience with both service and food.
Laundry: Lavanderia Ad Acqua: Very good, reasonable and fast , wash, dry, fold service in Ortigia just over the bridge from Siracusa, on the first street to the right, Via Dei Mille, 25.
Taormina is beautiful with sweeping sea views but packed with cruise ship tours which arrive in waves. Sometimes you can see Mt. Etna, other times, you can't due to clouds. We have seen other volcanoes and had no interest to visit it.
We did have a rental car for most of Sicily but used private transfers twice. Sicily Life was excellent for transfers. Enjoy your time in Sicily and Rome!

Wow! Thanks for the wonderful suggestions, Suki!! (and I have seen other volcanoes; lived in Portland, Oregon in 1980 and saw Mt. St. Helens blow!) Perhaps per your advice we won't pre-book a Taormina/Etna excursion and wait to see if we do want to just further enjoy Ortigia instead.

The square with the multitude of bus stops is at the Palermo end of the trip. In Monreale my bus stopped downhill from and out of sight of the cathedral. I always try to remember to ask the bus driver where to stand to get the return bus, but I believe I forgot to do that on this trip. I still figured it out. I think the pick-up spot was very near the drop-off spot, but I'm not 100% sure. Odds are decent that there will be other people returning on the same bus you plan to use, so you can take your cue from them. If you can find definitive info online, mark the bus departure points on whatever mapping program you have on your cell phone.

Oh, got it, acraven. Thanks!

There are 2 separate buses that travel from Palermo to Monreale.

• AMAT Bus #389 (runs every 75 minutes) departing from Piazza Indipendenza just past the Palazzo dei Normanni.
• AST Bus, in front of Palermo Centrale train station (runs hourly)

I took the AMAT Bus 389 from Piazza Indipendenza. You can buy your RT tickets at a small dark green shack just past the bus stop(s)
You can see it here on Google maps. Just place the little yellow man past the blue bus icon and you'll see what I mean.

If you're facing the entrance to the Palazzo dei Normanni, turn left and you'll see some buses lined up along this street, including the red HOHO buses. Walk past the buses, and notice the various bus stop signs. Once you get your tickets, walk back to find the correct bus stop.

BTW, as you may know, when you hover your mouse over the (blue) bus icon on Google Maps, you can see all the various buses (12) that stop along this street (Piazza Indipendenza)

Bus 389 gets very crowded,

"watch for shoving at the entrance to the bus, it's done by pickpocket
teams" ( Zoe's advice)

The bus journey from Palermo to Monreale took about 50 minutes. When you arrive to Monreale, the bus will stop here (notice the bus stop - green post on right side of street). [The cathedral is up the hill on the left]
The bus stop to return to Palermo is across the street, from where the bus drops you off (see bench with canopy), however, when I was waiting for the bus, we noticed that others were boarding the bus at the stop where it let us off, so we crossed the street and got on. The bus was super crowded and we had to stand for most of the way back to Palermo.

Hope this helps!

Edited to add...

If you're interested in unique hand crafted mosaics, make sure you check this small shop near the cathedral: Le Absidi Laboratorio Mosaici, where a mother and daughter make beautiful mosaic art.

I see a couple of logistical issues:
First, a private transfer/tour from Trapani to Palermo via Marsala and Selinunte sounds really expensive. Have you priced this? And I have the same concern for your private transfer from Agrigento to Ortygia via Piazza Armerina etc. Sicily is a large island and distances may be further than you expect. I advise you to get firm quotes in advance so you know what to expect.

Second, I wasn’t aware of a train from Palermo to Agrigento? I know there are buses. You might double check this.

Oh my goodness, Priscilla, this is SUCH useful information! Thank you so much! You probably saved me quite awhile of wandering around, searching for ticket booths and bus stops in both Palermo and Monreale. Thank you for taking the time to describe these locations and situations so clearly. And yes, I am VERY interested in mosaics, and took a 5-day class in Venice (at Orsoni) several years ago, and enjoy making my own, so I really appreciate the info about the shop in Monreale. It's now on my "to do absolutely!" list!
Charlene, I appreciate your caution about the transfers. I have done a lot of research, emailed many individuals and companies, and have settled on itineraries with clear, agreed-upon quotes, with what exactly will be covered, and Sister and I are comfortable with the costs, given what will be covered. I'll report back in May with my experiences with the two individual (licensed!) guides who will be guiding us those two days. Finally: trenitalia.com shows direct trains between Palermo and Agrigento every hour or two throughout the day; trip approx. 2 hours. 9 euros cheap! There don't seem to be a lot of train lines in Sicily, but that appears to be one of them. I do appreciate, really, all cautions and suggestions!

Good pick up Charlene!

First, a private transfer/tour from Trapani to Palermo via Marsala and Selinunte sounds really expensive. Have you priced this? And I have the same concern for your private transfer from Agrigento to Ortygia via Piazza Armerina etc. Sicily is a large island and distances may be further than you expect. I advise you to get firm quotes in advance so you know what to expect.

Please consider mapping out the distance you intend to travel: Trapani > to Salt pools > Nature Preserve > Selinunte > Palermo.

I'd suggest leaving Selinunte for another trip, and visiting Segesta instead; easily done via bus from Trapani.

You could conceivably take one night from Agrigento, and spend a night in Piazza Armerina (in order to visit Villa Romana del Casale), then taking a bus to Siracusa (via Catania)

Have a wonderful trip!

Edited to add...
Oops! I was writing, and looking at Google maps, while you responded. It sounds like you have your private transfers all planned out so disregard my comments.

Wow. I am seriously grateful that you all in California, Colorado, and DC are so generous with your time and insight to help me plan this trip! I have pages of research on Sicilian bus lines and schedules and my first draft for this trip had us doing exactly what Priscilla suggests: spending only one night in Agrigento and one night in Piazza Armerina, and using public transportation to Selinunte (day tripping from Trapani). However, Sister has some bodily pain issues ("aging isn't for sissies!") and the bus trips, one-night stays, and connections were not going to go well with her need to have this trip be as pain-free as possible, with opportunities for afternoon siestas back at the b&b or hotel whenever possible. Thus, we've increased our trip budget in order to arrange these two private transfers that will get us to the sights that I'm hoping to see, and will keep her comfortable enough to really enjoy the trip. I'm aware of how lucky we are to have the ability to actually arrange occasional private transfers. (I'm old enough to recall sleeping in 30-bed hostel dormitory rooms.... and hostel tents in Amsterdam and Munich....). Anyway, it is wonderful to be able to travel at all, isn't it??!!

Upon your return from your trip will you please write up a trip report and share what went well or maybe not so well, your observations or suggestions. I am planning a trip to Sicily this fall and I know your feedback will help with my planning. I find so much information on this forum and learn a lot as I research and plan trips. I have already looked at all of the Sicily postings from the much missed Zoe and I have noted her recommended accomodations and info and acraven has given me some good food for thought. Priscilla's specific bus info is very valuable. I am also looking forward to seeing the new RS Sicily book. Enjoy your trip!

Hi, Pat,
I'll be glad to post a tour report when I get back! Thanks for asking.

Hello,
I was just in Sicily in December- and travelled all over using public buses- they were clean , comfortable, and very reasonably priced!! Ortigia is so beautiful, and easily walkable- and I highly recommend a restaurant called La Tavernetta Da Piero
https://www.latavernettadapiero.com/
We had one of the BEST meals of our life there!! Simply AMAZING!! Siracusa /Ortigia the whole island of Sicily is just wonderful!!

Happy Travels✨💫