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Advance booking in Florence and crowds

Hello,

We are a family of five with older teens going to Florence for a week between Christmas and New Year. Besides Uffizi, Accademia and Duomo (is climbing the dome worthwhile?) , are there any other main sites require reservation? I would appreciate any experience sharing about your time in Florence. I heard the crowds is bad at Florence, but also heard Rome this year is extremely crowded, any first hand witness here? We will be staying at the Oltrarno side 5 minutes to the the river.
Thank you ahead of time!

Li

Posted by
1912 posts

There will be crowds all around the most popular and famous sites --- there is really no avoiding that, although early morning and evening visits will help. We were there 10 years ago from December 21st to December 31st and it was plenty crowded then and now more so since COVID. The Christmas lights are lovely at night, and people will be out and about, and eating dinner at about 9:00pm, so it's fun and safe to be out at night.

I am glad that you are staying in the Oltrarno --- that will help you feel not so much in tourist-land. Just keep telling yourself "These people are here for the same reason we are, because Florence is one of the greatest places to be on earth."

In addition to that December trip, we have since stayed in Florence for 70 more days (with only 4 day trips), so we have seen a LOT. Our latest trip was last November. I am thinking about the teenagers in making the following recommendations.

Find the flood markers from the 1966 and previous floods high on the walls --- some on streets, some in the courtyard of Santa Croce, one is inside a shop. Before you go, read "Diary of Florence in Flood" or at least the first several chapters. Written by someone who was right there, seeing it all happen, staying in a guesthouse next to the Arno. Her book has been reissued recently under the less good title "Florence: Ordeal by Water." You can see videos of the 1966 flood on Youtube.

Eat lunch in the Sant'Ambrogio market if you are over in that area.

Bardini museum --- collection of art & artifacts in a 13th century building made into the collector's home. Nice collection of armor and weapons. The last time I was there, only a couple other people were there. At the top of the gardens behind the museum there's a great view of Florence.

The Palazzo Davanzati will need tickets and you have to be led around by a museum guide, but it's really interesting to be inside an old palace.

Duomo museum --- A world class museum that is not crowded. It's one of my favorite museums, but I enjoy church art. The actual doors of the Baptistery are there. If your group has seen enough of church art, you could skip it, though.

The interior of the Duomo and the frescoes inside the dome are, in my opinion skippable when on a short visit. I've never done the climb, but I've done other climbs that were very cool, so I would guess that this one is, too.

Museo Archeologico Nazionale --- If anyone likes archeology, otherwise you could skip it. I love this museum!

Baptistery --- If the interior mosaics are still being restored, perhaps do the expensive scaffolding tour to see the mosaics up close. One of the coolest things I've done in Italy. If the restoration is going on, but you don't want to do the tour, be aware that the mosaics are hidden by fabric below the scaffolding.

La Specola --- I expected to dislike this natural history museum but loved it. The teenagers will like it, I think --- a lot of weird, weird stuff there.

Try to see the Benozzo Gozzoli chapel in the Palazzo Medici Riccardi --- a tiny room where you could easily spend an hour (but you don’t have to, unlike most of the other churches, museums, & art galleries) looking at all the details of clothing, portraits of the Medici family, animals, horses, flowers, etc. I always skip the rest of the palace. The paintings covering all the walls seem to be saying “We Medici are like the three wise men bringing gifts, so it’s OK that we are filthy rich.” The room fills with people and empties every few minutes.

Look for Clet Abraham’s clever altered street signs. And lots of other street art!

I've never been to the Pitti palace and never wanted to. Was not excited by the Boboli gardens, either (and I am a serious gardener!). Very skippable when you only have a week.

The view from San Miniato al Monte is wonderful and free!

Have a terrific time!

Posted by
9295 posts

We spent a couple of months in Florence 25 years ago, a week 15 years ago and two weeks last year. The crowd increase was jaw dropping. We used to walk across the Ponte Vecchio in the morning to Italian classes -- last year it was cheek by jowl, you could not stroll across the bridge -- you had to push your way through the crowds. Pickpocketing is a big issue so be sure you are pickpocket proof. Nothing in pockets or carelessly. held bags. A cross body purse needs to have your hand across the top in crowds. Men need to have their money/card in a neck bag or other well stowed spot -- a front pocket is not good enough.

the kids might find Palazzo Davanzati interesting -- a restored Renaissance home. IMHO Musee San Marco (only open mornings and other weird hours so check) is one of the most interesting sights in Florence -- Fra Angelico painted devotional frescoes in the monks' cells -- wonderful place and quite different from others. The Brancacci Chapel is not to be missed -- in Oltrarno at Santa Maria del Carmine.

We watched the sunset one evening from the steps of San Miniato above Piazzale Michelangelo -- you can take the 12 or 13 bus there. the church itself is wonderful and has vespers sung evenings.

We enjoyed dinner one evening at the cellar restaurant. http://www.ilcantinonedifirenze.it/en/index.html not far from Santo Spirito.

Posted by
1957 posts

IMHO the Pitti palace is one of the best museums in Florence, the problem is that it is huge so it may be skipped out of time considerations, but each of its gallery is outstanding. The Galleria Palatina would be a major museum anywhere, only in Florence it is surpassed by Uffizi. Actually both galleries (Uffizi and Pitti) are under the same administration as they are together the legacy of the Medici family, assembled over centuries.

Posted by
80 posts

Thank you all for sharing your experience. Especially for mentally prepare me for the crowd but at the same time assure me Florence is beautiful. :)
We did the similar holiday trip to Rome two years ago, from dec 26 to jan 1st. We enjoyed it a lot. So this year we are going again. My husband and I went to Italy 20 years ago, spent 2 nights in Florence. It was not crowded at all, we walked right into Accademia, no line. Uffizi had a line, but that was before online booking a thing.

I already booked Uffizi/Petti Palace/Boboli garden compo tickets, and tickets to the New year day concert at Teatro Verdi, will soon book Accademia, , probably book Palazzo Vecchio, Bargello, Duomo museum and Medici chapels closer to when we leave.

La Specola and Petti Palace are close to our hotel, that will be a full day. I have a feeling we will enjoy La Specola, weird is another word for interesting. Anyone went to Galileo science museum?

Museum San Marco, Palazzo Davanzati, San Miniato and Santa maria del Carmine are OK to buy at the door?
Has anyone been to Santa Maria Novella?

There are too much to see in just five full days, I feel overwhelmed.
Are most of the places will be closed on jan 1st?

Thank you again!

Posted by
2220 posts

We spent 4 nights in Florence in April a week before Easter. Yes, the crowds have grown exponentially since our last trip in 2015. Is it tolerable? Of course it is. In the main district, expect to hear more English than Italian spoken, but it's so beautiful and fun you forgive. Yes, eat at DaRocco in the Sant' Ambrogio market. Quality at restaurants in Florence is just top-notch, better than I had in 2 previous trips, so they're definitely on their game.

Posted by
1912 posts

For Palazzo Davanzati tickets, their website says:

The admission ticket grants free access to the ground and first floors of the Museum only.
The second and third floors of the Museum are open daily, but only with a guide (the service is provided by Museum staff) and by reservation, which must be made directly, in person, upon arrival at the Museum.
Note: To reserve a time slot for a guided tour of the second and third floors of the Museum, simply contact the staff on the first floor. No other reservations are permitted for the second and third floor tours.
Please note that space is limited for each scheduled time slot.

Pretty sure you will want the guided tour --- I can't even remember what's on the ground and 1st floors.

The churches need no reservations.

Both Santa Maria Novella and Santa Croce are very large full of great art in situ. If I had to pick one or the other, I'd say Santa Croce, even though it is by far the most popular.

To see what's closed on January 1st you'll have to look at the website of each place. Note what is closed on Mondays, too.

Speaking of picking one, I'm afraid you will have to prioritize your sites, especially with kids along. Our daughter-in-law has vivid bad memories of being dragged all over Italy. And although I was so interested in Renaissance art as a teenager that I went on an art teacher's bus tour in Italy for a week, by the time we got to the last few stops my schoolfriend and I took to just hopping out of the bus and buying postcards and hopping back onto the bus.

Even within a giant museum like the Uffizi or the Pitti palace, you would be wise to use a map and see what's most important to you to see, rather than starting in the first room and trying to slog through the whole place room by room. Make sure you are seeing the things you all most want to see, and try not to feel too bad about the things you have to postpone for another trip. I've had to do this painful prioritizing and skipping on every single trip to Italy. There is just so much!